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Ford 8.8 IRS Differential Swap Mounting Kit S30

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Rear differential swap mounting kit for Ford Explorer 8.8 differential into a 1970-78 Datsun 240Z, 260Z or 280Z.  This is a basic kit for mounting the 8.8 differential into your S30 chassis with no modifications needed to the chassis.  The 8.8 differential swap is a good choice when looking for different gearing options, lockers/limited slips and a virtually indestructible differential.   

 

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/ford-8-8-irs-rear-differential-swap-bracket-kit.html?search=ford

 

post-50800-0-52335600-1471453310_thumb.jpg

 

post-50800-0-68217000-1471453318_thumb.jpg 

 

Rear Axle related parts:

 

- 8.8 Explorer stub axles 31 spline billet to 930CV:

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/ford-8-8-irs-axles-explorer-style.html?search=ford

 

- 8.8 Pinion Yoke to 1330 U Joint:

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/drive-shaft/ford-8-8-rear-differential-pinion-yoke-to-1330-u-joint.html?search=ford

 

- 8.8 Aluminum Rear Cover:

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/ford-8-8-rear-differential-cover-aluminum.html?search=ford

 

- Outer axles billet chromoly to 930CV:

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-racing-chromoly-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html?search=outer+axle

 

- Outer axle chromoly companion flange:

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/axle-stub-companion-flange-chromoly-930-cv-racing.html?search=outer+axle

 

- Billet Aluminum axle adaptor:

https://zcardepot.com/driveline/rear-axle/billet-aluminum-axle-adaptors-930-cv-240z-260z-280z.html?search=outer+axle

Edited by zcardepot.com

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There any kind of instructions with this thing in regards to what axles work? Or is this just an overpriced piece of steel which leaves all the hard work to still be done...

Also you guys really cant at least take the time to paint/powder coat this?

 

While the kit is not for everyone, I think it certainly has value, and the fact that there is a vendor out there offering these custom type parts should be praised, not frowned upon. As a business owner, it's easier to appreciate the fact that though it may look like steel, a lot is required behind the scenes (likely a Jig was made and has to be stored, welding consumables/gas, labour costs (For a skilled/capable welder...not usually cheap), steel plate tubing/bushings, the time it took to actually make it in the first place, rent costs, power costs, book keeping costs, changing website to host new product, the list goes on...and then the company will actually want to at least make a profit, otherwise why bother even being in business).

 

Your kind of comment I would think is not welcome here. If you have legitimate questions about axle options or what the additional cost would be to have it finished, then do so in a respectful manner.

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Rear differential swap mounting kit for Ford Explorer 8.8 differential into a 1970-78 Datsun 240Z, 260Z or 280Z.  This is a basic kit for mounting the 8.8 differential into your S30 chassis with no modifications needed to the chassis.  The 8.8 differential swap is a good choice when looking for different gearing options, lockers/limited slips and a virtually indestructible differential.   

It must have been trial-fitted in a car.  Where are those pictures?  Has it been tested?  Under power.

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At this point trying to get a product on the market as quick as possible. Powder coating is on the way.  We know that the end user of this product is knowledagble and has done their homework.   There are many axle options available and we do have a complete axle system available as well as every single piece of hardware needed to install this rearend.  This is a high quality part built in the USA by one of the top automotive fabrication shops in the country.  This is a no compromise part that fits and works.  Feel free to call us with any questions, 844-865-2473. 

 

Ryan
Zcardepot.com

Edited by zcardepot.com

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I don't think that is fair at all. 

 

I am not sure what instructions you are striving for. It is a basic kit and comes with 3 pieces. The main piece holds the rear of the differential and bolts into the stock mustache bar points. The two front pieces bolt in to the factory cradle holes on the side of the transmission and hold the front of the differential.

 

You would have to adapt for the drive shaft and the axles would have to be custom.

 

Edit: or as stated acquired through them. 

 

Would be nice to see a full package like wil made come into the market, maybe talk to him about buying his design? I know he has been swamped, might be something he would be interested in selling.

Edited by seattlejester

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At this point trying to get a product on the market as quick as possible. Powder coating is on the way.  We know that the end user of this product is knowledagble and has done their homework.   There are many axle options available and we do have a complete axle system available as well as every single piece of hardware needed to install this rearend.  This is a high quality part built in the USA by one of the top automotive fabrication shops in the country.  This is a no compromise part that fits and works.  Feel free to call us with any questions, 844-865-2473. 

 

Ryan

Zcardepot.com

But has it been in a car yet?  Simple question, not critical.  Most end users that know could actually build their own.

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I think this sort of information should be included on your page:
 
Vehicles with the 8.8 IRS include:
  • 99,01,03-04 Cobra's
  • 89-97 Thunderbirds/Cougars/Mark VIII's
  • 02-Current Explorer/Mountaineer's (Known to work with this kit)

Most come with 28 spline axles some are 31. Conversion to Porsche 930 CV would be recommended?

 

I dont know about the driveshaft side? Does it work with any existing datsun shafts or is custom required? 

 

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There are so many option possibilities we are trying to focus on the 31 spline 07-11 Explorer housings only.  We feel this is the strongest most cost effective housing.  

 

We have billet chromoly 930 CV pattern inner and outer stub axles as well as CV joints to fit these.  All driveshafts will have to be custom made as depending on engine/trans and which mount kit was used will effect the driveshaft length.  

 

We try to keep in stock every component to do a complete 8.8 rearend swap with our components.  

 

We offer our components separately as everyone has a different budget and installation skill level so they may only need portions of what we offer.

 

Zcardepot.com 

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280Z in this video has the 8.8 conversion in it.  Car has made many 11.5X passes with 1.6X 60' times.  Zero spin and zero wheel hop.  

 

https://youtu.be/0bW2MbiJIsw

Those two little mounting ears up front just don't seem strong enough.  People have made much beefier brackets, actually bridged across the tunnel and still had problems with the Q45 and short R200.  Hard to see how that car is using those two little pieces alone.  Or are they just placeholders for welding and reinforcement?

 

Sorry.  It's an interesting topic, and people have broken many different designs.  A picture of that car's mount would be nice to see.

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The front brackets are 3/16" steel and most likeley the body mounting points will give out before these brackets will.  We have ideas to beef up the front mounts if there are issues.  In the racing world it has been proven that anything can be broken but our first goal was to make a mounting system that is user friendly and does not require welding and fabrication.  

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I think one of the better designs was a full brace connecting front to back on the shorter diff was made by a member on here. If I remember he incorporated the lower control arm cross member into the design front and rear. 

 

Would be interesting to see how these do hold up. Potentially entering my list for ideal rear end swap.

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Here's one that I managed to remember.  Didn't tear up the mounting area, but did break the nuts free.  He does like to put a hurt on his parts though.  And he has a 280Z, which might be stronger than a 240Z in that area.  Something else to consider.

 

Pulling a few posts to make it easy:

 

Post 198 to start - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109324-ford-88-irs-conversion/page-10

 

And the details of the mounts - 88 amd 99 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109324-ford-88-irs-conversion/page-5

 

#203 and 208 has comments about 240Z's - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109324-ford-88-irs-conversion/page-11

 

240 has his views on better ways - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109324-ford-88-irs-conversion/page-12

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I wish I could find more info, but so many places visited that I can't recall where I've seen certain things. I think viczcar had a couple of threads that I recall. Basically those captive nuts just don't hold, especially if you had to put a ford 8.8 or I believe the aussies have holden diffs they like to swap in, you probably are pushing quite a bit more then stock or even modified stock. I think the thread I followed was saying a box or girdle is really needed. I think an RT style improvement as in a bridge that connects the two sides on the top would be better, better yet would be a way to incorporate the front lower control arm mount, although that would make it much more difficult and expensive to fabricate.

 

Regardless, I think this is a great starting point. wfritts911 is the guy who had the full axle setup figured out to get rid of the stub axles and such, might be someone to hit up.

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I think an RT style improvement as in a bridge that connects the two sides on the top would be better...

 

Regardless, I think this is a great starting point. wfritts911 is the guy who had the full axle setup figured out to get rid of the stub axles and such, might be someone to hit up.

 

That's how the front diff mount from Will's kit is.  It ties together both sides from above and the lower is just the one side.  I'll still probably end up welding the upper portion to the trans tunnel eventually.

 

Amusingly, I had to cut out a bracket on my 260z that was an exhaust hanger because it was in the way of that bracket, something that no one else made mention of with a 240 or 280.

 

For will's kit, it's also swapping to dodge intrepid hubs and uprights that came with the kit.  Otherwise it went Explorer inner stub modified to mate to 930 CV->930 CV->930 Axle->F150 outer CV.

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We made about 10 more passes on the car this last week and thought we would check the mounts.  So we have about 30 track passes plus another 20-30 street pulls since last time we checked the diff mounts.  We found that two of the front bolts were starting to loosen up, all other bolts were fine.  I can see where if these front mount bolts to the body loosen up slightly it will snap those weld nuts off pretty quick from the leverage of the mounts moving up and down.  However if these bolts are kept tight I dont see why these nuts will just break off.  Is it possible that in cases of these weld nuts breaking it is because the bolts have loosened up?  I dont think it would take long at all to break the nuts loose once the bolts back off.

 

This is on a 280Z, so still wanting to check if a 240Z is built any different (structurally) in the front support area.

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