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Mild race cam and 8.3:1 compression? Too low?


turbogrill

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Hi,

 

Is it a bad idea to have a mild race cam and stock static compression 8.3:1. I have headers and megasquirt.

 

Car is a endurance race car so everything <3000 rpm doesn't matter.

 

This is the cam: (http://schneidercams.com/284-92F_L6.aspx)

Intake Duration (gross): 284

Exhaust Duration (gross): 292

Intake Duration (.050”): 236

Exhaust Duration (.050”): 244

Intake Valve Lift*: .488"

Exhaust Valve Lift*: .504"

 

I am planning on increasing compression later on.

Edited by turbogrill
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It was my Nissan Master Tech former roommate who helped me build my car back in the 90s who sold me the cam, and his warning was: "It's too big, won't have any bottom end" etc. He had been running a high lift low duration cam in his 510 with Mikunis and I had one in my Z too. That thing was a waste of time. Might have given me 5 whp. Maybe. I put the bigger cam in and was really impressed. I would guess I gained 40 hp. No detectable loss on the bottom end, ran out of steam around 6000, but that was the carbs. Later put Mikunis on it and it would slam the rev limiter hard. Then I had the front crank bolt back out and the pulley wobbled and ruined the end of the crank. After that I built a flat top bottom end which was closer to 11:1 and then I thought I needed more cam but it pulled hard.

 

Anyway after I initially installed the cam I took it over to his shop and let him drive it and the next day he ordered a .610" lift cam for his car... LOL. People follow 50 yo SBC cam recommendations for the most part and a whole lot of people go too small on the L cams IMO. I can't stand seeing Schneider .460 lift cam in a build list.

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I like BluDestiny's suggestion of a regrind. I don't think anyone has really proven it beyond a doubt, but those Schneiders seem to lose lobes more often than regrinds. Their valve springs and retainers are nice though, not too much seat pressure, etc. Need shorter valve stem seals.

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