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280zx wheel hop.


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Hey guys it been a while huh. Well me and xnke went to the drag strip last Saturday and the first pass out i was joking and told him i was going to cut the tree down on him. My reaction time was 0.422 and i hit it hard out of the hole. The car shook so bad my sun visors came down and it threw my keys out of the ignition into my lap. I found out about the keys when i got to the staging lanes and went to shut the car off and the keys were gone! They were found under my crotch in the seat. Any ways some back story for you guys that dont know my car. L28et big cam Turbonetics To4e 50 with stage 3 turbine wheel .63 turbine housing. Im also running megasquirt ms1 v3 at 16 psi that night. The last time we went i had the same setup but still had the stock diff (open) and it launched hard with little to no hop just some tire slip. I have been running this obx diff for over a year no issues until we hit the track. I checked my axles and driveshaft today at work everything good and tight. After all the shaking thought it was worth looking because it was the most violent tire shake i have ever experienced in any car. Do any of you guys have this problem? Im going to switch all my rear bushings to poly next week to see if it helps when we go back on the 29th. All i could manage was a 13.4 at 104 and last time with open diff same boost ran 13.1 at 108 but without wheel hop giving me shaken baby syndrome. Thoughts? Yes i know i posted this in the zx forum also. But some of you s30 owners avoid the zx section like its contagious. Thanks. 

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A Torsen type diff should not cause wheel hop but it may be that you are getting more grip with the Torsen which is overloading the suspension generally. Doing poly bushes is a good start, that may fix it otherwise shocks and/or a wheel alignment may.

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I had wheel hop after i welded my diff. Wasn't very violent though. I did find that my rear diff mount was broken so I burned off all the rubber and welded it solid. Also at the same time I did the poly bushings and drag radials. I have no more wheel hop so I'm not sure exactly what fixed it. I'm also now leaving with a 50 shot and trans brake but still no wheel hop either way.

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Make sure the subframe is held solid.  On the 510 we used to flip the subframe caps to nail them down.  You might be able to do that you use washers to put pressure on the rubber bushing.  Between that and the trailing arm bushings you should be good.  If it still hops after that I'd look at the shocks to see if they have a dead spot in them or are too lightly damped.

 

Hope that helps,

Cary

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