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1975 280z shell/parts car located in Florence, AL $1500 obo


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#1 RebekahsZ

RebekahsZ
  • LocationFlorence, Alabama

Posted 16 October 2016 - 06:56 AM

Pics will go up when I figure out what is wrong with my cell phone.

 

This is a very, very solid '75 280z that I bought from a widow after her husband died.  This car has been stored indoors since 1989.  I stalked this widow for 2 years before she would finally sell to me.  There is some surface rust and light pitting under the primer that the widow's brother shot on the car "to protect it."  But, this is the most solid chassis that I have seen in years that could be obtained at a reasonable price.  I believe this to be a very low mileage car; I bet the 106,000 on the odometer is correct.

 

THE GOOD:

1.  Barely any rust-almost enough to claim rust-free.  The floors have the typical bends here and there, but there is zero rust in the footwells. There is one area of rust the size of a silver dollar in the rear of the passenger floorpan.  I would patch that only and not replace these floors.  The rockers are choice and still have the little rubber plugs in the weep holes as they come from the factory.  The front fenders are perfect.  The rear fenders, inner and outer skins, are perfect, with the exception of a little spot behind the one rear wheel that is easily fixed (not a blind panel).  The hatch area above the license plate that usually rusts out in the corners-perfect.  Doors, hood, rear hatch-perfect.  The spare tire well-perfect.  I was so psyched to find a car this solid.

2.  This was an A/C equipped car.

3.  Good roll-around tires on original steel wheels.

4.  The steering rack is really nice and tight.

5.  All the struts look good, the rear suspension looks great.

6.  The fuel tank is full of varnish, but is straight and looks pretty good.

 

The BAD:

1.  This car looks to have been hit hard on the right front fender early in its life.  The body shop did a really good job concealing this, as all the door and panel gaps are perfect.  But, once I got the engine and trans out, I found the bends in the front frame rails forward of the firewall that expose the truth.  The body shop did a lot of work: removed and replaced the right inner fender, removed and replaced the radiator support.  I have tossed back and forth the option of trying to fix this (and there are guys on this forum who can and would), but I'm just not that into it.

2.  I removed the engine and transmission and gave them away before I found the damage on the frame rails.

3.  I have the R200 and axles removed but have saved them in case the new owner wants them-my plan was to solid axle/back half this car.  The driveshaft is gone.

4.  The interior is till in the car, but it is bad.  The seats themselves are in pretty good shape, but from years of storage the carpets would need to go.  The dash and steering wheel are in bad shape.

5.  The braking system needs to be all 100% replaced. 

6.  There's some bondo in the roof.

7.  The driver side door window and window regulator are missing (on second thought, I might have the glass).

8.  No title.

 

My goal for car, if I were to keep it, was to build a no-compromises V8 drag car/landspeed car, a pure, turbo'd race only car.  I wanted to maintain the stock front clip and front suspension and focus on a solid axle conversion.  I have too many other projects to want to do the work to make the front of this car "whole" again.  Make me an offer, show up with a trailer and enough cash to make us both feel good (the list price is what I paid for it, but I know I paid too much) and you will get either a good foundation for a project, or a great parts car, particularly for the solid body panels. I'm realistic, and I want the space in my garage more than I want the car.

 

Keith 256-366-4685, text me for pics if you are reasonably serious. I will post pics when I get my cell phone working right (I accepted an "update" last week that scrambled my hybridz settings).

Attached Files


Edited by RebekahsZ, 16 October 2016 - 10:29 AM.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#2 RebekahsZ

RebekahsZ
  • LocationFlorence, Alabama

Posted 20 October 2016 - 03:29 AM

Deposit paid, waiting for satisfied buyer at pick up next week.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!





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