Jump to content
HybridZ
Sign in to follow this  
joa_taste

1j-vvti/Ar-5 Build

Recommended Posts

Looking good man digging the progress. I have a 260 shell sitting on jackstands right now while I'm trying to decide what I wanna do with it. I also have a 2jzge in the shop disassembled I keep glancing at and sitting in the engine bay with the hoist. I'm still not completely decided what to do just that I know that I want a manual transmission, which is kinda keeping me from going LS so I don't have to buy a T56 lol. Awesome stuff though I'm glad the CXRacing mounts are starting to become a more viable option and we don't have to try and source an old Beta mount or build our own. A question though, how does the car handle and drive having the rad support cut out with that bar in between the frame rails? That frees up a ton of space

Nice my man. I think there are different options for LS1? I'm not 100 percent sure.

I wanted to do a Porsche 944 LS1 but didn't want to spend tons of cash on it lol.

As for the rad support, it handles well. I did have a strut brace tho.

I will need either a new one or more support up front with the JZ, eventually.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE

 

 

Well small update.

So I've gotten miscellaneous parts in finally.

 

post-22336-0-05139600-1487009721_thumb.jpg

 

I decided to start with finishing my coolant hoses, but since it would be in the way before I could finish that I needed to finish my turbo drain feed. Lol not going to say its ugly but its super ghetto looking. Since my feed smacked right into my passenger side motor mount I had to use brass piping to make a 90 degree lol.

Anyways I finished the Oil Drain feed and did the hoses. I bought FB3s Rx7 radiator components (aluminum piping, misc. couplers and an overflow reservoir ). It worked well, I did minimal cutting on one of the aluminum pipes to make this work. I think i am going to make a bracket for the Overflow Reservoir that comes off of the Rad/Intercooler bracket. I don't want to do this until I finish doing my IC piping, since i don't want to make unwanted issues or make things harder.

I snapped a quick picture, its been raining out here inconsistently so I really didn't finish much.

 

post-22336-0-07710600-1487010444_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-21580000-1487010611_thumb.jpg

 

The next thing was starting to mock up my IC piping. I went with Stainless steel since i don't have a TIG. I got two mandrel bent pipes x1 2.25" for hot side, and x1 2.5" for cold side. Im still waiting on the 2.25" mandrel bent pipe but I finished my cold side. On the cold side is where I will mount my BOV. I will weld everything at the same time once I get the pipe for the Hot side. Hopefully I will get this in today.

 

post-22336-0-46316800-1487009752_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-14428800-1487010738_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-64957400-1487011029_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-46721100-1487011106_thumb.jpg

 

 

I bought some Speedhut gauges, 4" Tach/Speedo. Which are being made and need 15-20 days to be finished?

I also bought auto meter 2 5/8" Oil, Coolant, Fuel gauges as well.

Figured since I need to wait so many days, i might as well do a Dash Resoration lol.

 

So I removed my dash, lol it wasn't so bad. I thought it were going to be a lot worse TBH.

I guess some guys have to drill out their last screw, but luckily I didn't have to. Looking at my interior with the dash removed makes the car look weird lol. As you can see my dash is going to need a lot of TLC.

 

post-22336-0-86575100-1487011413_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-11291100-1487012580_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-25223300-1487012649_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-11280300-1487012746_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-88661700-1487012867_thumb.jpg

 

Looking over a couple of the Dash resto's Hybridz has, I think I like this one the best.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106906-yet-another-dash-restoration-new-gauges/

 

Its funny when you start doing swaps. When I started this I told myself I would keep the r180 diff and not do anything interior, but i guess once you get the ball rolling its easy to say fuggit lets do it lol.

 

Hopefully by end of the week I can get that other IC pipe done and everything welded.

Edited by joa_taste

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE

 

 

Well small update.

So I've gotten miscellaneous parts in finally.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5670.jpg

 

I decided to start with finishing my coolant hoses, but since it would be in the way before I could finish that I needed to finish my turbo drain feed. Lol not going to say its ugly but its super ghetto looking. Since my feed smacked right into my passenger side motor mount I had to use brass piping to make a 90 degree lol.

Anyways I finished the Oil Drain feed and did the hoses. I bought FB3s Rx7 radiator components (aluminum piping, misc. couplers and an overflow reservoir ). It worked well, I did minimal cutting on one of the aluminum pipes to make this work. I think i am going to make a bracket for the Overflow Reservoir that comes off of the Rad/Intercooler bracket. I don't want to do this until I finish doing my IC piping, since i don't want to make unwanted issues or make things harder.

I snapped a quick picture, its been raining out here inconsistently so I really didn't finish much.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5682.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5683.jpg

 

The next thing was starting to mock up my IC piping. I went with Stainless steel since i don't have a TIG. I got two mandrel bent pipes x1 2.25" for hot side, and x1 2.5" for cold side. Im still waiting on the 2.25" mandrel bent pipe but I finished my cold side. On the cold side is where I will mount my BOV. I will weld everything at the same time once I get the pipe for the Hot side. Hopefully I will get this in today.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5671.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5698.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5699.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5700.jpg

 

 

I bought some Speedhut gauges, 4" Tach/Speedo. Which are being made and need 15-20 days to be finished?

I also bought auto meter 2 5/8" Oil, Coolant, Fuel gauges as well.

Figured since I need to wait so many days, i might as well do a Dash Resoration lol.

 

So I removed my dash, lol it wasn't so bad. I thought it were going to be a lot worse TBH.

I guess some guys have to drill out their last screw, but luckily I didn't have to. Looking at my interior with the dash removed makes the car look weird lol. As you can see my dash is going to need a lot of TLC.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5701.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5704.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5705.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5706.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5709.jpg

 

Looking over a couple of the Dash resto's Hybridz has, I think I like this one the best.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106906-yet-another-dash-restoration-new-gauges/

 

Its funny when you start doing swaps. When I started this I told myself I would keep the r180 diff and not do anything interior, but i guess once you get the ball rolling its easy to say fuggit lets do it lol.

 

Hopefully by end of the week I can get that other IC pipe done and everything welded.

I ground out the dash cuts, used epoxy and mat underneath to reinforce, used great stuff foam to fill in the cracks, SEM bumper repair for covering the cracks, SEM flexible bumper glaze for smoothing out the dash then texture coating and paint.

 

Turned out really good!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

was rereading your build and noticed you grabbed an ecu from driftmotion. What are your thoughts on it and will you be doing the tune yourself or is it plug and play? I was thinking of grabbing the AEM infinity-6 but kind of hesitate as I haven't used one prior.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

was rereading your build and noticed you grabbed an ecu from driftmotion. What are your thoughts on it and will you be doing the tune yourself or is it plug and play? I was thinking of grabbing the AEM infinity-6 but kind of hesitate as I haven't used one prior.

 

I haven't really touched that part yet. My tuner swears by it when it comes to this motor, so I picked it up. Came with the patch harness, Ill let you know how it goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE*

 

So i've been doing a few things here and there but haven't really posted. I figured me posting a bulk of the things I did over the past week, compared to me posting daily would make more sense. That way you guys could see more of things finished, over things that were still in the works. Maybe less of me talking and just letting the pictures do it for me? lol Don't want to seem longwinded.

 

Lets start with the piping. I got that done and welded about a week ago, just had been waiting on the Tbolt clamps. This is self explanatory, I later ended up seeing what clamps would give me hood clearance issues. See below.

 

 

post-22336-0-42878600-1487919475_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-23890900-1487919545_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-49215700-1487919572_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-86138000-1487919585_thumb.jpg

 

 

Might do a bracket for the Overflow Reservoir, might not. Lol we shall see, ill come back to this later.

post-22336-0-15604600-1487919509_thumb.jpg

 

 

Next I ended up getting a cheap Bride seat, so I took the bracket it came with off and made my own bracket. No slider but it seems like its a perfect fit for me. I think OEM seat will go on the passenger side.

 

post-22336-0-75544500-1487919622_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-84546600-1487919634_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-65628500-1487919645_thumb.jpg

 

 

Next I ended up getting the ZL1 camaro hood scoop (I just had too it looks so good lol) Got it, Riveted it on, cut accordingly, and of course still clearance issues. The white tape again of course lol. I had to cut a little bit, which sucks but looks cool. I will get hood pins instead of use the stock one. Was thinking about doing a Hydraulic mechanism for the hood hinges, but X'd that idea. Looked around a bit online for someone who might have done it before, still no one?

 

post-22336-0-99590700-1487919657_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-40272400-1487919667_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-01195800-1487919687_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-35797300-1487919695_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-35797300-1487919695_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-07838800-1487919704_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-09040900-1487919716_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-26162700-1487919726_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-79727400-1487919752_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-39469200-1487919877_thumb.jpg

 

On to the dash, this has been an on-going project for me lol. Its a little bit more involved, which I don't mind because its taking forever for the speed hut gauges. Just want to make it look right, I think if i don't get this right this time I will bondo the whole entire dash. I think i can do it without doing that but we shall see.

 

post-22336-0-88431500-1487919434_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-99754500-1487919451_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-05560200-1487919484_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-46728100-1487919529_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-00452600-1487919555_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-06814200-1487919564_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-42419700-1487919595_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-07581900-1487919608_thumb.jpg

 

At this point, i am on my 3rd time bondoing and mostly working on the dash for now. Trying to get it as perfect as I can since this will be the focal point of my attention while driving the car lol. 

 

Side note, has anyone taken seats out of the datsun and put them back in? How do you get to all the bolts? I can do the front two bolts, but not the back am I missing something here?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

UPDATE****

 

So I finished the dashboard, it still has a few blemishes that aren't so noticeable..

So I stickers over them so they weren't eyesores to me lol. Kinda cheese, I know, but it worked.

This took a bit longer than I intended, but all in all it looks a lot better than it did. Im pretty happy with the way it came out. 

Sorry to repost pics guys, just wanted to show what the first to last pic looks like in comparison.

post-22336-0-08154900-1489631763_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-18953400-1489631754_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-61111700-1489631744_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-63950300-1489631736_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-47787500-1489631720_thumb.jpg

 

I ended up going with the speedhut gauges that a few members have gone with. 4 1/2"

For my center console gauges, I went with Attometer Oil, Fuel, Water. I think its 2 5/8"

Came out pretty nice.

post-22336-0-74588900-1489631728_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-48836600-1489631772_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-03774500-1489632567_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-27296100-1489632576_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-23959400-1489632584_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-07504200-1489632592_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-93857300-1489632600_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-29264800-1489632643_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-95226100-1489632650_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Last post i did was the bride seat. Which came with a harness, so I ended up going with a Techno Toys Tuning racing harness bar. Nice in quality, T3 always has good stuff, and very easy to install. 

You just take out the OEM bolts that the original seat belts were connected to, and screw in the T3 bolts.

 

post-22336-0-96939100-1489632610_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-54940600-1489632619_thumb.jpg

 

So I dropped my car off to my buddies shop for wiring, a few days ago. I've finally been able to post here, sorry for the delay. 

Last thing I did was worked on the whole " Not being able to shut my hood fully" issue. 

I just bought some hood pins and did a quick fix. With that being said, I should've done the same thing Seattlejester did  with the flipping his CXracing mounts backwards. Putting the motor lower than mine is by a few inches.  :unsure: 

 

post-22336-0-49628100-1489632662_thumb.jpg

 

Anyways, I hope the next post I put here will be a running motor. After I get the car back there are a few things i need to wire. Like the gauges, and finish the exhaust system.

 

That's it for now, hope to post in a few weeks. 

Edited by joa_taste

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks bro, it took a lot longer than I had thought it would.

I would snap pics of the T3 harness but the car is at my wiring buddies shop. I'll snap some when I get the car back.

 

Here's the link for the harness on T3. They have some pretty legit pics on there.

Probably the easiest upgrade I've done to the car lol.

 

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/240z-260z-and-280z-racing-harness-bar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Small update.

 

I haven't forgot about you guys, I've been waiting for awhile to get my car wired at the shop.

They've been giving me the run around for two months about waiting on this, or that with no progress whatsoever. Kinda dumb since I have history with taken multiple cars there, and I feel it's not too hard or time consuming if you know what you're doing. With that said I know people are busy and I was happy to pick my car up.

 

 

Anyways I found a more reputable shop known for Jz swaps in multiple different chassis down at the speedway. Upon dropping it off they were already trying to show me basic upgrades their other cars have done, and recommended a few things I should do with my set-up.

So hopefully I'll be posting something soon when it comes to pics and info.

 

I'm upset I've wasted 2 months of waiting, but glad I intervened before 2 months turned into something like 5 months.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I'm interested in hearing the upgrades that the new shop mentioned to you.

 

 

^Same always nice to know what professionals recommend.

 

 

Off the top of my head.

 

He said ditch the big plenum on the exhaust side over the turbo, it'll free up some horses and its like a second muffler.

Which ill need to do new IC piping on the hot side. Since I'm going with this we will be going with aluminum 3", over the stainless steel 2.25. With that said ill just do the whole system 3" aluminum piping.

 

Re-route the driver side water hose to the passenger side. He said usually people just plug this up and wonder why their cars run so hot. Its the hose the routes coolant to the head.

 

He is switching the BOV to the exhaust side as well said it's better on this side. 

 

He recommended upgrading the coil system to an Audi system. I.E it won't be 3 coils and 3 wires it'll all be "individual wires"

He showed me a Nissan s14 he had integrated the wiring for that system, and it was stout. It was like a twist cable connecter that the customer can switch out for the stock one if he wanted. He said something about the Jzx100 1j's ignition being crap.

 

He also said he's not going to use the jzx100 base file from the AEM?? He is saying to use a different file for this motor. 

He's making a list of what he's going to do, I will post when I have this.

Edited by joa_taste

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting, well according to some math the 2.25 would really not have been suitable for anything much above stock levels. I believe the term aerodynamic drag starts coming into play with 400-450hp in 2.5 inch tubing.

 

What does the water hose feed? The throttle body? Or does it make its way back and into the heater matrix?

 

I guess the BOV thing is a matter of preference. Some would say if the turbo is slow to build having the BOV on the exhaust side would allow the more of the charge pipe to retain boost so take less time to build up pressure, on the other hand the pressure spike is the highest right next to the throttle body when it shuts. 

 

I've heard similar things about 90's coil packs. Definitely a point of upgrade whether it is LS, 2000 era coils from a toyota, etc etc.

 

Given there are jzx 90, 100, 110, soarer, etc one file might be more advantageous to use over another in terms of slight improvement or different more efficient values.

 

Definitely please do!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting, well according to some math the 2.25 would really not have been suitable for anything much above stock levels. I believe the term aerodynamic drag starts coming into play with 400-450hp in 2.5 inch tubing.

 

What does the water hose feed? The throttle body? Or does it make its way back and into the heater matrix?

 

I guess the BOV thing is a matter of preference. Some would say if the turbo is slow to build having the BOV on the exhaust side would allow the more of the charge pipe to retain boost so take less time to build up pressure, on the other hand the pressure spike is the highest right next to the throttle body when it shuts. 

 

I've heard similar things about 90's coil packs. Definitely a point of upgrade whether it is LS, 2000 era coils from a toyota, etc etc.

 

Given there are jzx 90, 100, 110, soarer, etc one file might be more advantageous to use over another in terms of slight improvement or different more efficient values.

 

Definitely please do!

 

Found old pics to explain to explain better.

 

This hose. 

post-22336-0-79110400-1495219350_thumb.png

 

 

Goes here

post-22336-0-10713500-1495219368_thumb.png

 

Yeah its something apart of the Heater Matrix like you asked earlier. He says people make the mistake of plugging both sides up, and run hot all the time.

 

When I upgrade turbo's later I will upgrade to that coil pack. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting. 

 

On the 2jz and 7m there is a barb on the back of the head, does the 1jz not have that?

 

Pretty cool to hear about, there is a lot of debate on the subject whether to loop or to block off. Some people swear it doesn't make a difference, others say the engine will blow without it. Someone found a plumbing diagram and found that on the sc300 the 2jz dead heads when the heater is off so it shouldn't make a difference, while on other cars it seems to have a bypass to loop when the heater is off and to open and pass through the heater when it is on. The premise was to always do the bypass if you could help it, but there was some counter argument about the coolant that goes via that route would be hotter then expected and would mess with the thermostat if it bypassed right away instead of passing through the heater matrix. 

 

Cool stuff, looks like you are in good hands!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a small update.

 

Dropped a couple sensors off to my wiring guy; AEM air intake sensor, AEM electronics MAP sensor, and exhaust. I went with an Apexi muffler.

 

I also went with a retro spec wing, I got it used so it was pretty cheap.

I almost went with a chassis mount wing, but I feel like it would've been too much.

 

Heres some pics.

 

post-22336-0-15212700-1496420286_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-14694900-1496420299_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-91256700-1496420308_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-99178300-1496420317_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-68662600-1496420342_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update.

 

The Z is still at my buddies shop.

Wiring has been on and off since there are other things that had come up. More on the mechanical side of things.

But to say the least, I've got a bit of a growing list of things that;

 

 1. I didn't do

 2. I did but did incorrectly or jalf hassed lol.

 

First, he got the clutch to bleed! Me thinking that the bore size on the master cylinder wasn't big enough was incorrect. 

It was the way i mounted the slave, to the side. Made it hard as crap to bleed, especially since it had no bleeder valve. As weird as it is, it has the tubing for one but not the actually valve. So he remounted it upwards, and drilled a inlet for a bleeder valve. Pic below. With that said, he made a new tranny mount out of the stock holes, said since it was out he thought it better to make a solid mount. 

post-22336-0-80349100-1500081704_thumb.jpg

 

So i ditched the Tomei elbow(Now 4sale) and went with a future fab turbo elbow. With that said he deleted the pre-exhaust thingy over the top of the turbo/manifold. Then did a new turbo back down to my exhaust. Which I wanted the old school early 2000's look of big canister slanted up. Which I feel kinda compliments the build a bit. 

post-22336-0-54270300-1500081711_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-65631500-1500081718_thumb.jpg

 

Also in the engine bay they redid my cooling system with a swirl pot. He said since my radiator it would be a b* to keep cool so he added the swirl pot. Being its the top of the cooling system now. He also switched my top inlet to the Rad from drivers side to passenger side, making a patch on the old inlet. And as you can see aluminum IC piping.  

Before.

post-22336-0-15787900-1500081698_thumb.jpg

 

After.

post-22336-0-34712900-1500081726_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×