Jump to content
HybridZ
Sign in to follow this  
joa_taste

1j-vvti/Ar-5 Build

Recommended Posts

joa_taste    0

Could you post more pics of the swirl pot by the upper water neck on the block?

Yeah lemme see if I can swing by tomorrow or some time this week. They did a reservoir and I bought a billet water neck that they welded on.

 

That is really nifty. A consideration would be to monitor where the exhaust crosses over the diff. It can be quite tedious if the exhaust covers the diff or gets in the way when you are trying to pull it.

It does cross over the Differential/Driveshaft area, If i could go back i would've mounted my cx mounts like you did. Kinda kicking myself right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never too late :D, seems like you have a really skilled friend working on it right now who can do aluminum (means he can do stainless). Might be worth addressing now before all the pipes are finalized. You will have to let me know how solid trans feels. Mines still on rubber, I'm planning on getting poly, but if solid is doable then maybe I'll just jump ahead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

Never too late :D, seems like you have a really skilled friend working on it right now who can do aluminum (means he can do stainless). Might be worth addressing now before all the pipes are finalized. You will have to let me know how solid trans feels. Mines still on rubber, I'm planning on getting poly, but if solid is doable then maybe I'll just jump ahead.

Lol Intercooler piping is already done. Its funny because I thought he strictly does wiring, but he has a fabricator/welder and a mechanic.

 

my mechanic let me know that everything is wired and working, everything is good except for the crank not wanting to turn over. After a short convo I let him know it definitely moves since it moved while I were changing to an aluminum crank pulley. 

So it looks like it could either be starter(which I doubt) or the flywheel bolts I used are a little bit too big.  :(

 

good news is the ECU works tho lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Long flywheel bolts will bind the clutch disk for sure.

 

I would point you towards all the reading on the aluminum crank pulley not being a good idea. I think even Aaron doesn't run one on his car, and he makes a kit that includes one. Basically the crank pulley is actually damping things, remove that damping function and the soft aluminum pulley will deform from vibration especially near the key way and cause problems. The stock one isn't all that great either as the rubber can separate. Definitely between a rock and a hard place here. The solution looks to be on of the $300+ dampers from ATI or what not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0
Posted (edited)

UPDATE**

 

Got my car back this past weekend. Super excited to get it back, tho I do have a few things that I need to clean up/fix before its fully drivable. Had to tow it home, but I was able to drive it around the block before pulling it back into the garage for you guys.

This car feels amazing, just wants to pull pull pull.

Gauges work, speedo/tach work, Tranny feels really good.

post-22336-0-64373000-1502139321_thumb.jpg

 

Diff might have a few issues, might have to crack it open. 

It kinda sounds like marbles, I do remember leaking some diff fluid when i towed it from my house to my mechanic so ill do a refill it and go from there.

 

https://youtu.be/Og-Xbfm6TDQ

 

Basically, my car doesn't want to idle. Could be a multitude of things, could be one thing. 

Thinking it might be the map sensor.

 

Here's a little list of what I need to fix next.

 

-Alternator

 

-Front Main Seal

 

-Change out the silicone hosing I used for fuel lines (starting to expand) will go to steel braided, and I need a fuel filter.

 

-Switch over the fuel cell to a aluminum cell one without foam. After a quick chat with my wiring guy about how bad the foam is in the long run, I was convinced to change over to something without the foam. Tho it will have a bit of slosh, I found one with a sump and will end up getting a surge tank in the future. When I upgrade my fuel system. Also need to do a vent out of the cell, its starting to balloon.FML

 

-I need a new 3.5bar AEM map sensor. Maybe, my wiring guy says its a possibility that this could be faulty so I got another from Summit Racing, if its not bad Ill send this back.

 

So waiting for that, I did some cosmetics. I had bought the retro spec wing, and put that on. 

Also put back on my front bumper. Not gonna lie wasn't really feeling the hood scoop for the longest time, but now that the front air dam is back on it flows. Ended up wiring the fuel level gauge to this fuel cell, even tho I'm changing fuel cells I figured pre-wiring this now I can just swap out the cell and plug & play. Wired in the boost gauge, I have one gauge port open now since i have my AEM air/fuel, water, oil at the opening where my radio would be. So I'm trying to figure out what to put there as like a place holder so it doesn't look like an eyesore. Maybe a sticker or another gauge?  :confused:  :confused:  :confused: Wired back in the headlights, turn signals, my brake lights are being a little cooky so Ill need to look into that when i get back. I don't have them as running lights or when I push the brakes. might be a fuse, might've gotten unplugged.

post-22336-0-47334600-1502139330_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-31216800-1502139343_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-31018800-1502139354_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-14543100-1502139379_thumb.jpg

 

 Kind of a weird question. But has anybody ever used motorcycle mirrors as a fender mirrors?? Sounds kinda off the wall but my roommate has a Grom and these mirrors are looking like they might work….Maybe lol. My knock off fender mirrors are starting to get on my nerves with not being able to be fully adjustable. These from mirrors are on point with its fully adjustablitiy, so I may try switching to his mirrors lol.

post-22336-0-91104800-1502139388_thumb.jpg

Edited by joa_taste

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

Ahh I know. I'm interested to see what they look like. Will keep trying to fix my side mirror on the passenger side. I just like the fact that the mirrors are fully adjustable OEM, so the quality is better than what I have at the moment.

 

The issue with the tranny was the clutch disk being a bit too thick. It was pushing on the crank a little making it hard to turn. The disk was grinder down a bit to suffice. Still has a lot of life.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Zetsaz    4

Some people have. Non bullet style mirrors look really off. I saw two cars with square ones this weekend and it definitely didn't match. The thin motorcycle one make them look like bug eyes on antennae I would vote not to. 

 

This is a true story, I was there. Don't do it. It's just wacky and doesn't fit with the style on the rest of the car. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0
Posted (edited)

This is a true story, I was there. Don't do it. It's just wacky and doesn't fit with the style on the rest of the car.

 

Awww man. I was hoping I solved my issue if not being able to see lol. Ah well.might mess around and put them on for shiz and gigz. Edited by joa_taste

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I mean you are welcome to try lol, your car and if you are chasing function then that is more important after all. I'm honestly thinking of moving my mirrors back to the doors. Only reason I'm hesitant is I spent so much time shaving them. Fender mirrors do get in the way when you are digging around in the engine bay.

 

Have to say car sounds very good sir.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

I mean you are welcome to try lol, your car and if you are chasing function then that is more important after all. I'm honestly thinking of moving my mirrors back to the doors. Only reason I'm hesitant is I spent so much time shaving them. Fender mirrors do get in the way when you are digging around in the engine bay.

 

 

Have to say car sounds very good sir.

Thanks, I've always liked the sound of surge, even tho it's bad.

 

I did put one mirror on since I need to try and source out more bolts(the bolts are m10x1.25 reverse thread) lol wth. I put one on and it doesn't look as bad as I thought. I'll post a pic when I get the two on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

 

What model seat is this? The color of it looks like it matchs my dash perfectly!

 

great progress so far, looking forward to seeing a couple pictures of the whole car.

 

 

Thats just a regular NRG seat I believe, they usually look like that so I'm not sure the exact model differences.

They are inexpensive, just a little too high sitting for my liking, might drill a hole to make it lower on the brackets.

 

Thank you. Will definitely post of the whole car when finished.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

UPDATE**

 

Nothing too crazy this go around. Just did the little list of things for myself last week.

 

-changed FMS/Alternator

Stumbled upon a tool a friend used to remove his FMS/RMS this tool is the tits. 

Got it at home depot for $.49, its a paint can lid opener tool doohickey thingy. lol. Anyways it worked better than a flat head for me. 

post-22336-0-33975900-1503554795_thumb.jpg

 

-Fixed headlights/turnsignals.(rewired turn signals to the OEM area, got the idea from a members thread) All this was present but since I did the swap none of the lights were working.

post-22336-0-47032400-1503554889_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-12476000-1503554910_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-61079300-1503554928_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-05162300-1503554946_thumb.jpg

 

Not using my reverse lights so I jumped them to each sides turn signals. My driver side bulb harness for the reverse light was burnt out, so I cut the old bulb harnesses out and used a universal harness from auto zone. Used the stock bezels, macguyvered the bulbs harness into the stock harness lol.

post-22336-0-37123700-1503555578_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-06965900-1503555591_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-97407800-1503555601_thumb.jpg

 

-Changed over the Cell, of course I bought something a little bit bigger than the spare tire area..of course  :bonk:  So I switched this system over, contacted my welding buddy to weld over the spare tire and mounted the cell in its new location. Sprayed the outside of the weld with some "Great Stuff Foam" and sanded it down.Rerouted wiring for sender off the T3 harness bar. And did some hardlines...almost done...Still waiting on a couple of fittings. I tell you, i should've just went steel braided. Installed a 100 micron Fuel filter, didn't have one before so its inline pre pump. 

post-22336-0-86528500-1503555208_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-66606400-1503555196_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-14441900-1503555171_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-70890200-1503555218_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-76452700-1503555232_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-95919900-1503555159_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-78874600-1503555129_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-98887300-1503555826_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-34909500-1503555953_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-88863500-1503555918_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-82637200-1503555996_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-06158800-1503556006_thumb.jpg

 

-Lol okay so I put the Grom Mirrors on... I actually like them, they don't look half bad to me. Fully functional/Maneuverable. i think I'm sold on these, going to keep them on for awhile. Let me know what you guys think.

post-22336-0-18767300-1503556054_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-45249100-1503556064_thumb.jpg

post-22336-0-24771000-1503556075_thumb.jpg

 

-Map sensor is still in the works. My idle issue has gotten worse. After changing the Map sensor with a new one now my car turns on for a split second then turns off. Which makes me really believe its the Map sensor...or the Iacv. Heard these are common issues with needing to be cleaned. So took mine off and cleaned it. Didn't fix my issue, so I tested the 3.5 bar sensor and to my avail, I'm not getting 5v. Which tells me the map isn't even on. Ran out of time on this one, will have to go back out this weekend and track down where my buddy tapped into on the harness. 

post-22336-0-84940400-1503556128_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

the grom mirrors looked good, how are they for visibility? Really liking the hood as well, will the hood stay red or do you have a paint job in the future?

Thank you, the grom mirrors are really good. Bigger than my bullet style and I the mirrors are on a swivel so you can move it however you want. I can actually see behind me now. My old mirrors were cheaply made, so the difference is night and day. 

 

Im keeping the hood as is, I thought I were going to switch over to an all black carbon one. But the dent in the front i feel gives it a bit more character. Also the faded red kinda grew on me as well lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The home depot one kind of sucks since it went to a flat end instead of a curved one. The curved one you could slide in between the crank and the seal, the flat one you have to do it like it says in the manual and cut a slit and stick it in and pry out if you don't want to knick anything.

 

Make sure to clean that area really well, very lightly FIPG the outside and very lightly grease the inside. It is tricky to hold after, but apparently really worth it in the long run.

 

I really like doing the high beam switch like that, gets rid of that whole right assembly especially if you have another switch for the turn signal.

 

Hmm most bullet style mirrors are adjustable as well. You just undo the little slotted screw in the front and rotate and relock.

 

No vibrations? Mine you can barely tell any shape in them, I imagine yours with the longer stem would be even more shaky.

 

Honestly though not bad. I do think they are a tad long, but can't imagine they would look better being shorter nor any more functional.

 

Your fuel cell just sits in the car? I thought that was really no bueno. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

The home depot one kind of sucks since it went to a flat end instead of a curved one. The curved one you could slide in between the crank and the seal, the flat one you have to do it like it says in the manual and cut a slit and stick it in and pry out if you don't want to knick anything.

 

Make sure to clean that area really well, very lightly FIPG the outside and very lightly grease the inside. It is tricky to hold after, but apparently really worth it in the long run.

 

I really like doing the high beam switch like that, gets rid of that whole right assembly especially if you have another switch for the turn signal.

 

Hmm most bullet style mirrors are adjustable as well. You just undo the little slotted screw in the front and rotate and relock.

 

No vibrations? Mine you can barely tell any shape in them, I imagine yours with the longer stem would be even more shaky.

 

Honestly though not bad. I do think they are a tad long, but can't imagine they would look better being shorter nor any more functional.

 

Your fuel cell just sits in the car? I thought that was really no bueno. 

Yeah I've read that the common issue with these motors is the Iacv needing a cleaning. Didn't know it was such a common issue for this motor.

 

I have yet to drive the car with this new setup of fender mirrors. Mine old ones were cheap knock offs ill have to admit, so I'm not sure how the good ones are as far as adjustability. I was able to unscrew a screw and adjust the mirrors left to right, but with these Grom mirrors they are on a swivel so they can move left, right, up, down, etc. etc. how ever you want. They are a bit higher tho, thats the only con i have about them.

 

Yeah I know having the cell in the car is a little ahhh, but seeing other builds i've seen a few people run it this way. Plus I didn't want to have to make brackets for the fuel cell under the car. I am glad its up a lot more since its a bit aways away from the exhaust system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea mine does prohibit a traditional exhaust to some aspect, granted I shoot my exhaust out the passenger side so not as big of a deal.

 

The aspect of having a fuel cell in the car would be:

1. Annoying, all that sloshing fuel, and if you have the return going to the top of the tank all the dripping sounds

2. Dangerous, not mentioning the sure fire hazard, but a full fuel cell is a lot of mass, on the brakes it is going to have to fight a lot of mass to keep that from moving.

3. Performance, you are shifting the weight up about 2 feet in the car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0
Posted (edited)

Yea mine does prohibit a traditional exhaust to some aspect, granted I shoot my exhaust out the passenger side so not as big of a deal.

 

The aspect of having a fuel cell in the car would be:

1. Annoying, all that sloshing fuel, and if you have the return going to the top of the tank all the dripping sounds

2. Dangerous, not mentioning the sure fire hazard, but a full fuel cell is a lot of mass, on the brakes it is going to have to fight a lot of mass to keep that from moving.

3. Performance, you are shifting the weight up about 2 feet in the car.

Hmm touche'. Didn't think about that. Figured the car would be too loud to hear the slosh and dribble.

After the cars on, I can barely hear the fuel pump.

This is why I need to get a full cage, and possibly a bash bar in the rear. Still waiting on the fuel straps.

Edited by joa_taste

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Geno750    0

I'm planning a cell for my car as well, and my research echo's jester's, and that having it in the car is not ideal. Just filling it will cause the interior to smell like fuel for a bit, which isn't fun either.

 

I want to do a cell that's more rectangular with an angled filler neck towards the right side. This would let one plumb it to the factory filler location.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calZ    1

I really like doing the high beam switch like that, gets rid of that whole right assembly especially if you have another switch for the turn signal.

 

 

How is the headlight rewire done? I've seen the thread about rewiring the signal lights, but not the headlights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oops I meant left assembly. The combo switch on the right houses the wiper switch which has several positions and the headlight switch so it is a bit harder to get rid of. You could do it though. Just a matter of where you put the switches and what functions you want to keep. 

 

A full cage is really not a good idea if you plan on driving on the street, which I imagine this would be for since I don't think any club or track association would pass tech with a fuel cell in the passenger compartment. 

 

Bash bars also really aren't designed to take hits really. They are designed to collapse to a certain extent for sure, but they aren't really an exo skeleton which is what would be required if you were aiming for the safety aspect.

 

I too was really concerned with the fuel smell, but haven't had to deal with it. I think the AN line helps quite and making sure the vent points outward helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

I'm planning a cell for my car as well, and my research echo's jester's, and that having it in the car is not ideal. Just filling it will cause the interior to smell like fuel for a bit, which isn't fun either.

 

I want to do a cell that's more rectangular with an angled filler neck towards the right side. This would let one plumb it to the factory filler location.

I've seen a few people do this. I like the idea but i chose to go another route. Keeping the factory filler was the main thing that I wanted to do but thought against it, when it came to doing my fuel system. 

 

How is the headlight rewire done? I've seen the thread about rewiring the signal lights, but not the headlights.

I rewired it prior to the swap to its own individual route. Just wasn't hooked up. I jumped it off the signal light on the OEM headlight switch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
joa_taste    0

Oops I meant left assembly. The combo switch on the right houses the wiper switch which has several positions and the headlight switch so it is a bit harder to get rid of. You could do it though. Just a matter of where you put the switches and what functions you want to keep. 

 

A full cage is really not a good idea if you plan on driving on the street, which I imagine this would be for since I don't think any club or track association would pass tech with a fuel cell in the passenger compartment. 

 

Bash bars also really aren't designed to take hits really. They are designed to collapse to a certain extent for sure, but they aren't really an exo skeleton which is what would be required if you were aiming for the safety aspect.

 

I too was really concerned with the fuel smell, but haven't had to deal with it. I think the AN line helps quite and making sure the vent points outward helps.

 

Seattle jester you always got me rethinking things i've already done lol. but i always dig the input. 

Yeah its a street car, i know some type of cage is in the future. i feel like any hard contact with anything my car would be toast.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×