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1j-vvti/Ar-5 Build

1jzvvti toyota inline6 ar-5

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#21 seattlejester

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 04:22 PM

Oh wow, I didn't think they would be that high, I wonder if you could flip them at that height.

 

The stock block is held up by two studs of the same thickness if I remember, although that is at more of an angle. I do think adding a supporting block under neath where the bracket sits to help support the weight would be a good idea, but we'll see. I want to say that the bushing bracket felt almost like aluminum, or maybe it was just the finish on a cast piece of stainless steel. Keep us updated on what you decide!



#22 joa_taste

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 12:58 PM

Oh wow, I didn't think they would be that high, I wonder if you could flip them at that height.

 

The stock block is held up by two studs of the same thickness if I remember, although that is at more of an angle. I do think adding a supporting block under neath where the bracket sits to help support the weight would be a good idea, but we'll see. I want to say that the bushing bracket felt almost like aluminum, or maybe it was just the finish on a cast piece of stainless steel. Keep us updated on what you decide!

Ill probably end up doing my welding if any at the end of the swap.. See how it runs and drives first, and see if the bolts aren't up to par. I did use rated Lock bolts/washers tho. 

Later this week i think ill do some plumbing for radiator/intercooler. maybe try and track down a used aftermarket turbo elbow. I don't see a reason of buying it new for something im going to get rid of anyways. We shall see 



#23 Geno750

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 03:05 PM

Yeah it's like you said, the angle is different. These bolts are perpendicular to the load. So now you're talking about their sheer strength, which might be different.

#24 seattlejester

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 03:34 PM

Thinking about it, given the compression Isn't it more like a wheel for that specific bolt? Where the friction of the surface more or less supports the weight and the bolt acts as a clamping force? 

 

I think drift-boss used them for a while so he would probably be the best person to answer the question. 

 

You totally have me beat lol. My block is still basically stripped sitting on a stand, but I do have drive shaft and trans all mounted and taken care of.

 

What radiator are you running? 



#25 joa_taste

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 06:42 PM

Yeah it's like you said, the angle is different. These bolts are perpendicular to the load. So now you're talking about their sheer strength, which might be different.

 

True. When you really think about this its a bit scary. 

 

Thinking about it, given the compression Isn't it more like a wheel for that specific bolt? Where the friction of the surface more or less supports the weight and the bolt acts as a clamping force? 

 

I think drift-boss used them for a while so he would probably be the best person to answer the question. 

 

You totally have me beat lol. My block is still basically stripped sitting on a stand, but I do have drive shaft and trans all mounted and taken care of.

 

What radiator are you running? 

Yeah its something like a clamping force...Not gonna lie i hopped on top of the motor when it were mounted and gave a little jump lol. I would rather it break in the garage while im doing something dumb than on the road. Lol not saying my weight can compare to the actual motion or vibration of a full blown motor. Just had to do something to make me feel better lol.

 

lol naw man you're pretty far already keep up the good work bro.

 

Ive got a mishimoto radiator that i was using with the l26 when it were in. Worked well, Ill even keep it v mounted. Just have to run more Rad hoses lol. 



#26 seattlejester

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 09:10 PM

Oh, that's good to hear. I was kind of thinking that I needed to go stare at the wall of rad hoses at the parts store to come up with something.

 

V-mount in theory sounds good, but without much movement they struggle from what I have heard. Having a massive vent in the scoop that is functional would be pretty sweet!



#27 joa_taste

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Posted 22 November 2016 - 09:26 PM

The radiator should work. I think I've seen people run stock Rads for this? but im not sure

 

This is definitely on the parts list for when the car is almost done.. Or maybe when the wiring guy has the car I can buy this as a christmas present to myself lol

 

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http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



#28 Greeko

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Posted 24 November 2016 - 04:21 AM

The radiator should work. I think I've seen people run stock Rads for this? but im not sure

 

This is definitely on the parts list for when the car is almost done.. Or maybe when the wiring guy has the car I can buy this as a christmas present to myself lol

 

attachicon.gifpost-22336-0-37994600-1478753546_thumb.jpg

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

I used a 3 row Datsun Champion radiator and it used the stock toyota Rad hoses from a 93+ supra. Works great at 12 psi!

 

http://www.championr...iator-1975-1978



#29 joa_taste

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Posted 25 November 2016 - 10:30 AM

I used a 3 row Datsun Champion radiator and it used the stock toyota Rad hoses from a 93+ supra. Works great at 12 psi!

 

http://www.championr...iator-1975-1978

Sweet. If the one i used for the l26 doesn't work then ill check the champion one out.  Greeko if you don't mind me asking what throttle cable you used for your swap. I've read that the rx7 fb works but I was just wondering what you went with.

 

 

UPDATE

 

 

So I had contacted a buddy of mine, to see about doing my driveshaft. He said he would do the whole drivetrain for me. Replace the r180 with the OBX LSD R200 that I had been working on in a previous post. 

Also the thought came up about welding the two driveshafts together (Aisin Ar5 to the Datsun yoke), and taking it to get balanced. By the way the buddy of mine is a nice guy, and an absolute Datsun Guru. If you're in the Vegas area and need help with anything datsun related look him up (Johnson's Automotive) Has a really nice Yellow 260z thats in pristine condition. He was talking about doing a Datsun meet every 3rd weekend of the month. 

 

First time the car has seen daylight in a couple months. It was nice to see it somewhere other than the garage. :D

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Looking over the whole area of how long the driveshaft would need to be. It doesn't look like i need to get my driveshaft extended too much, maybe 6-7 inches. If the diameter of the Aisin ar5 and the datsun driveshafts are the same all i would need to do is weld and get it balanced. But Since i don't have the driveshaft from the Aisin Ar5 as of yet, its going to be the waiting game. I did however order it online, hopefully it gets here soon. Hopefully beginning of next week.  

 

Im still wondering what EMS i should go with Apexi power fc D-jetro or AEM V2...Im really leaning towards the AEM V2. But idk, that will be the absolute last thing I buy.



#30 Geno750

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Posted 25 November 2016 - 08:41 PM

If you're looking towards an AEM unit, go with the infinity series. The features and capabilities of the unit make it well worth it.

#31 seattlejester

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 12:58 AM

Sweet moving along.

 

Please keep us updated with if you end up dropping your engine via slotting the mounts. I just bolted in my bell housing and am working on my last seal, would be nice to know what to expect.

 

Careful with balancing welded drive shafts, I thought a rattle I had at 40 was from something else until I had a new drive shaft made. Notoriously difficult to balance if there is even a slight bit of angle in the tube.



#32 joa_taste

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Posted 29 November 2016 - 03:12 PM

Sweet moving along.

 

Please keep us updated with if you end up dropping your engine via slotting the mounts. I just bolted in my bell housing and am working on my last seal, would be nice to know what to expect.

 

Careful with balancing welded drive shafts, I thought a rattle I had at 40 was from something else until I had a new drive shaft made. Notoriously difficult to balance if there is even a slight bit of angle in the tube.

 

 I will definitely let you know brutha. Im interested to see how the mounts rack up when its in motion.

 

Everything is being done at a friend of a friends driveshaft shop. Hopefully they do it right do it once type deal. Don't want to go backwards on anything. Ill give you guys updates. Currently waiting on the driveshaft(Aisin Ar5) and Mustache Bar from Techno toys

 

 


If you're looking towards an AEM unit, go with the infinity series. The features and capabilities of the unit make it well worth it.

 

Man that thing is pretty interesting. Expensive but interesting.


Edited by joa_taste, 29 November 2016 - 03:15 PM.


#33 seattlejester

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Posted 30 December 2016 - 05:41 PM

Have you noticed how far the engine sits to the passenger side with the CX mounts? I was about to put my motor in and it would just be sittings so far off line that it would look wrong to me.

E9C2B859-9E9C-4F8A-B690-9CFC899BEECF_zps



#34 joa_taste

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 11:39 AM

Have you noticed how far the engine sits to the passenger side with the CX mounts? I was about to put my motor in and it would just be sittings so far off line that it would look wrong to me.

E9C2B859-9E9C-4F8A-B690-9CFC899BEECF_zps

 

Yes!!! Lol i thought the same exact thing.

It'll sit a little more to the left side when you put your car in. Looks funny but it clears. 

 

At first I thought maybe i messed up.

So i looked over a few of CxRacings swaps on google, i used the hood latch as a center point for the engine bay. 

They too have their motor a bit to the passenger side. I think this is because of the steering rack.

It'll make the Downpipe that much more fun to do lol.



#35 seattlejester

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 02:21 AM

Fudge, I really don't like it when it looks like the motor is not lined up in the engine bay. Plus yea routing the exhaust will be a bit trickier and with my turbo manifold I should be close to the shock tower as is anyway, now I'll definitely be in the tower... 

 

You'll have to post up what your guy ends up doing. I looked up drift boss and he ended up moving the ears on the cross member from what it sounds like.



#36 joa_taste

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 05:16 PM

Fudge, I really don't like it when it looks like the motor is not lined up in the engine bay. Plus yea routing the exhaust will be a bit trickier and with my turbo manifold I should be close to the shock tower as is anyway, now I'll definitely be in the tower... 

 

You'll have to post up what your guy ends up doing. I looked up drift boss and he ended up moving the ears on the cross member from what it sounds like.

I totally understand on that one.

 

I will let you know. Im still at a standstill with the driveshaft. I will find out tomorrow wtf is going on, I've been eager to get it back I have a lot of parts just sitting around waiting to be installed lol.



#37 joa_taste

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Posted 08 January 2017 - 02:27 PM

UPDATE******

 

Sorry guys I know it seems like I haven't really posted much.

Im still waiting on my cars Driveshaft to be finished, Seems like its been a life time.

Im getting anxious. 

But really Ive just been buying parts for this thing so when I get it back, the wrenching will commence.

 

Over the little month of it being gone, i've purchased;

 

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-3" mandrel bends stainless steel (Exhaust Piping) for the downpipe

-Downpipe 1jz Flange

-Tomei turbo elbow (looked at future fab, but the way the motor is i didnt know about the angle the downpipe should go. the tomei is already flanged as well.)

-Exhaust wrapping.

( I think Exhaust downpipe will be the first thing i do. Not sure if i will do the whole exhaust...might as well right? Im thinking blast pipes like this would be something that would make the back of the car pop. Literally lol)

 

Example:

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More than Likely won't be as big.

 

-An Rx-7 throttle cable First Gen FB3s ( I remember reading somewhere that someone used this. I'm kind of skeptical because it looks a little short, but when i get the car back, we will see.

-Intercooler. Went with a non name brand, but the measurements I needed to be precise, for it to be at somewhat an angle in front of how i have my Rad mounted. Might have my buddy do it since its already at his shop. Still wondering if I should do stainless steel or Aluminum as far as piping goes.

-Flex couplers

-My buddy had his old Tial BOV sitting around from his EG coupe so I bought that from him.

-Lastly the AEM Standalone from Driftmotion for the 1jz. 

I got really lucky on this one, just on a wim looked at eBay for this. Someone bought it didn't use it, and was selling it. Really cool guy, it even came with a patch harness.

 

Thats about it for now. Exposed did some speedhut gauges. That might be the next big purchase for this car. At first I wasn't planning to have running gauges, but thinking about it now if im going to get this tuned I will need a working speedometer/tach? plus I should want to watch over what the motor is doing since its so new I.E Oil pressure, coolant, etc etc etc. 


Edited by joa_taste, 08 January 2017 - 02:29 PM.


#38 Greeko

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 11:42 AM

Sweet. If the one i used for the l26 doesn't work then ill check the champion one out.  Greeko if you don't mind me asking what throttle cable you used for your swap. I've read that the rx7 fb works but I was just wondering what you went with.

 

 

UPDATE

 

 

So I had contacted a buddy of mine, to see about doing my driveshaft. He said he would do the whole drivetrain for me. Replace the r180 with the OBX LSD R200 that I had been working on in a previous post. 

Also the thought came up about welding the two driveshafts together (Aisin Ar5 to the Datsun yoke), and taking it to get balanced. By the way the buddy of mine is a nice guy, and an absolute Datsun Guru. If you're in the Vegas area and need help with anything datsun related look him up (Johnson's Automotive) Has a really nice Yellow 260z thats in pristine condition. He was talking about doing a Datsun meet every 3rd weekend of the month. 

 

First time the car has seen daylight in a couple months. It was nice to see it somewhere other than the garage. :D

attachicon.gifIMG_4804.jpg

 

Looking over the whole area of how long the driveshaft would need to be. It doesn't look like i need to get my driveshaft extended too much, maybe 6-7 inches. If the diameter of the Aisin ar5 and the datsun driveshafts are the same all i would need to do is weld and get it balanced. But Since i don't have the driveshaft from the Aisin Ar5 as of yet, its going to be the waiting game. I did however order it online, hopefully it gets here soon. Hopefully beginning of next week.  

 

Im still wondering what EMS i should go with Apexi power fc D-jetro or AEM V2...Im really leaning towards the AEM V2. But idk, that will be the absolute last thing I buy.

Sorry for the late reply. I used a Generic Lokar throttle cable and it Worked out great!



#39 seattlejester

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 11:56 AM

I did find you get about another inch of travel on the plates if you invert them so the CX logo is facing the block and upside down. I'm tweaking mine, a spacer on the passenger side to move it over about 20mm and cutting and welding in the tabs in better position for the driver side. 



#40 joa_taste

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 10:54 PM

UPDATE***

 

Finally back fellas. Sorry it took me so long, the driveshaft was so much more of a hassle than I thought.

 

 

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Quick pic of my buddies shop here in Vegas.

The red one on the far left is a complete restore 240z of a customer of his, he wants to sell it for $22k

The Black one is his another 240z with the L28 N/A motor. He moved pretty quick with it, When i first seen this car a few months back it wasn't painted and not moving.

The middle one is the best looking....but I may be a bit bias lol 

This black one is a 260z he is selling for a customer, to pay for the white one. This white one is a L28et. Pretty cool pic, figured I would snap a quick pic for you guys.

 

Heres the driveshaft when It were out of the car. Sorry guys but the pic I took of the driveshaft assembled is kinda crappy looking 

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I think it came out really nice, and worth the wait. Can't wait until I see how it is in action.

 

Anyways on to the Update. Can't believe I hadn't touched this car in literally 2 months. 

 

On to the Goods, I've had this car maybe 24 hours and I've literally touched everywhere it feels lol.

Im sure I've said before that I've been accumulating parts as its been in the shop.

First thing I started was the Downpipe/Tomei turbo elbow. I bought a box of stainless steel misc. Mandrel bends and used two 90 degree bends. As I said earlier on this thread Its in kinda weird position on the exhaust side. Its a little tight.

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I taped my pipes together first and assembled the downpipe/elbow as if it were in the car. This took me a couple of tries cutting in 1/2" to 1" increments. This took me almost all day lol.

 

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Finished product

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I wrapped the downpipe as well since I have my clutch line so close to that area. Also my air intake is in this same area, or will be, so I want to reduce some heat.

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Its a little low. so I might trim this when I get to the exhaust portion, we will see It looks really low since im in the driveway and there is an incline, but its about 3 inches off the ground. My car is also Low so Im a bit afraid this might be a issue later.

 

 

Next I moved to bleeding the clutch  

Im at a standstill on this one, I have tried many different ways trying to bleed this clutch, I've tried multiple ways on going about bleeding it. But it doesn't want to hold pressure. I first had my set up like this;

 

Clutch master 87' Landrover  > Oem hard clutch line  > Custom fitting > -3an Steel braided clutch line (This had a lot more slack than i wanted) > Clutch slave.

 

After thinking about distance in a power consumption point of view. I.E thinking that too much distance was between my master cylinder and slave, and maybe it would take forever to bleed I ditched this and went this route.

 

Clutch master 87' Landrover > Banjo 10mm fitting to -3 an fitting > -3an Steel braided clutch line (this distance is perfect, should've done this in the first place) > Clutch slave.

 

I was sure this would work. or atleast be easier to suss out the issues. Nothing. Im currently getting fluid from the master to the line to the slave, but im not getting any pressure. And of course there is no bleeder valve. 

 

I thought maybe I assembled the clutch incorrectly, but after putting the car in gear and not being able to move the Z makes me feel its assembled correctly. So I've put this on the back burner. Im going to hit the Saturn Sky forums and check what other people did. My worst fear is 

1. the slave is faulty

2. i assembled the Slave Incorrectly.

I.E having to pull the motor out to get to the interior of the tranny. Or taking the transmission off to get to the interior. It might be the Master.

 

Anyways. Next thing I was able to tackle before the end of my day was the Throttle cable. FB3S Rx7 part.

 

It was pretty straight forward. The time most spent was getting a firm enough grip on the line to give it enough tension to actually work. It works well. 

 

[attachment=90028:IMG_5567.jpg]

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So thats about where I am at the moment. My list got a little bit longer lol. Tomorrow I hope I find out the issue of bleeding that clutch. Ill choose from one of the things on the list tomorrow.

-IC piping Make Brackets

-Bleed Clutch (Sad Face)

-Fuel Feed + Return lines

-Radiator Hoses

-New turbo drain feed.

 

I've also added redoing the dash and Gauges which I don't have a Gaff Tape tab for lol

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Edited by joa_taste, 02 February 2017 - 11:11 PM.






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