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T3 Coil overs vs DIY Ground control kit


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Hi,

 

T3 charge $925 for a set of front coil overs that bolts right in. 

They also sell a DIY kit (looks like GC kit) for $219.

 

I can get Bilsteins for ~$250, so that means I could build coil overs for ~$500 (GC Kit + shocks). 

 

How would these differ from the T3 ones? Is the $400 difference what they charge for labour?

 

Or do I get anything "extra" for buying the T3 coil overs?

 

 

 

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Well, it would differ in that the shocks aren't the same. T3 uses Koni 8610-1437 race shocks, which run about $250 each.

 

Don't forget incidental expenses too, like supplies to strip the finish on the housing, repainting, spacers for the shocks and so on.

 

You can DIY for less, but I think T3's prices for the coil overs are very fair, especially when you sell your old suspension after switching.

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Interesting, I didn't like the fact the AZC does not tell you what shock they run, good for them because if yours blow you have to send them in, bad because you don't really know what you are running. Haven't met anyone who is unhappy with them, just interesting they don't share that.

 

The Koni Race dampers might be where some of the extra is, a quick google search shows $150-250 per strut, I think given the shorter body it is more likely the single adjustable $250 per strut, that means $500 in shock hardware + $220 for the GC setup + $200 to strip strut, reinforce, cut, weld, assemble is pretty affordable. Then you can send in your struts as cores for $100 credit so technically only $100 more to get a fully assembled setup.

 

If you are using cheaper shocks then the gap becomes bigger, but I guess the extra you get is a higher performance shock potentially depending on application, and the ease of just pulling parts off and sticking new stuff in. 

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  • 1 month later...

I've been looking at various options for my Z, and I'm really curious as to what AZC uses for struts. I like that they are legitimate fully adjustable for height/preload but without knowing what's in them I'm really hesitant to purchase. 

 

If T3 made a threaded strut type and were up front about what it was I'b be inclined to go with it. 

 

The Megan coilover conversion looks interesting, but I can't stand the cars I've ridden in with them. 

 

I wish someone would adapt some KW's.

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Are they any GOOD though? I'm not interested in going low for looks; I just want good suspension. 

 

If that was the case then a pair of good shocks with slightly stiffer springs will give you the best suspension geometry and increasing performance..

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  • 2 weeks later...

^Seconded, if you don't want to go low, you don't need adjustable coilovers. Get a set of uprated springs and shocks and call it a day.

 

I don't really have a need for adjustability in my setup, but I need the extra space for my wheels to clear.. Does anyone make a 2.5inch spring? Or is coilovers the only way to go on this.

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Jegs, Summit, Coleman, just about any race oriented place will carry generic 2.5 inch springs in 6, 8, or 10 inch lengths. Given that you will have to cut your perch off to get the clearance you would have to know exactly the ride height you were going to run if you didn't run an adjustable collar and adapt up top to a collar that would retain the 2.5 inch spring.

 

I think the only place that provides a 2.5 inch spring for stock strut assemblies is cosmo, in one of their installs they don't even cut the factory perch so in theory you could shave an inch off the inside, not have to do any welding, and get clearance, granted given the spring is now even shorter it is stiffer which means normal shocks are not going to be valved to deal with that.

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I had the t3 setup at first. It's good quality but I did not like the fact that the springs hung unloaded when jacking the car up.

 

I switched to the Arizona z cars coilovers and am much happier.

 

Was this with the pre-assembled kit by TT3 or the DIY kit?

 

Either way, unloaded springs are really no issue IMHO. Doesn't affect anything mechanically or handling wise.

 

Also, you can install " Helper " springs. These are very low pressure springs that keep the springs seated when a car is jacked up.  As soon as the car is lowered, they collapse all the way, effectively becoming a spacer that minimally affects spring rate. Common part made by numerous companies for 2.5" and 2.25" coil overs. Used all the time. Helper spring rates vary from 5 lbs upwards. 

 

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Coilover+helper+springs&sa=X&biw=1536&bih=736&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ved=0ahUKEwjfsN7Cm_PRAhVLVWMKHS3KCA4QsAQITg

 

http://pitstopusa.com/c-133004-chassis-suspension-springs-coil-spring-accessories-take-up-springs.html

Edited by Chickenman
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For me it was pure maintenance driven, a couple pumps of a jack and you are off the ground with threaded body coilover. 

 

Performance wise, no difference, other the the fact a non threaded body coilover could have more traction on an off camber corner, whereas a threaded body coilover would be more likely to lift a wheel off the pavement.

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For a budget chump car check to see if they haven't closed the bump stop rules.  If they haven't then you want to look at running either bump springs or some of the softer circle track bump rubbers.  Then use packers to close the gap and you now have a much stiffer "spring"  and all the benefits.  If the penalty is too much for a real 2.5 inch spring then you could cut the coils a lot and raise the spring seat above the tires.  You'd probably still use the bump stop of some kind for fine tuning.  There are a lot of low buck ideas you can use in the grey areas to get better handling.  The bump stop stuff is already being done by a number of teams.

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