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KevvinG

KevvinG's 3.0L Stroker Build

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TimZ    21

I'd love to have Whitehead do the entire build for me but I'm also taking this as an opportunity to dive into engine building.  It may go horribly wrong and backfire on me but part of why I'm doing this instead of say swapping in an RB engine is to be able to enjoy an engine I've built myself!  That and I'm trying to keep costs as low as possible

 

Good for you - have you read this thread (stickied at the top of the page)? Read it several times.  

 

Engine assembly isn't that difficult, but it _is_ very tedious if you want to do it correctly.  TonyD and PMC raceengines do a really good job of outlining many of the finer points that often get skipped over.  If you want to enjoy an engine that you built yourself, get yourself a good set of inside and outside mics and take your time.

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KevvinG    0

Steve, I had a sheet with all the pertinent info, I have to find it and corroborate with Dave at Rebello racing to make sure all my numbers are correct before I continue.

 

Tim, I haven't read it yet but I sure will before I get to work, thanks!  I'm glad to hear that it's not difficult, I don't mind tedious.  I kind of find tedious projects relaxing and given that I won't be pulling my engine from my car until this engine is done I'm in no rush so I can do it right.  Do you have any recommendations on sizes and brands for the micrometers?  I see a whole range of them and don't know which one I might need.

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KevvinG    0

SO there have been more updates, I've picked up more parts!  Since the last update I've gotten:

 

- Crank Girdle

- AZC Oil pan (opened but unused)

 

and last but not least... an N42/N47 longblock!

 

I'm in class right now but when I get the chance I'll post pictures of the engine in the trunk of my poor '06 Jetta.. I picked it up on my way to Ottawa for $200CAD and it spent the rest of my 4 day, 1000km round trip torturing the rear suspension of my car.  I was really skeptical of being able to load the engine without a hoist but 3 of us rather easily managed to load and unload the engine!

 

I haven't had much of a chance to dig into it at all, I turned it over with a breaker bar and a 27mm socket and it's a little tight but not seized, it's currently sitting at my buddy's place until I clear out some space in my garage

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TimZ    21

Tim, I haven't read it yet but I sure will before I get to work, thanks!  I'm glad to hear that it's not difficult, I don't mind tedious.  I kind of find tedious projects relaxing and given that I won't be pulling my engine from my car until this engine is done I'm in no rush so I can do it right.  Do you have any recommendations on sizes and brands for the micrometers?  I see a whole range of them and don't know which one I might need.

You're going to need to be measuring bearing clearances in the 0.001" range, so you'll want a micrometer with resolution down to 0.0001" (or better).  I was able to borrow a set of nice Mitutoyo digital Mics from work.  Mitutoyo, Starrett, Fowler, etc are all likely good brands (I'm not an expert on which is best).  You may be able to get by with something cheaper if you can verify that they have the required accuracy and repeatability.

For the outside mics you will need to be able to accommodate the main and rod journal diameters, plus your desired bearing clearance.  Generally for the inside mic you use a small telescoping rod to find the ID and then lock down the rod and measure it with the outside mic, if that makes sense.  Then subtracting the journal's OD from this ID gives you the bearing clearance.  It takes a while to get the hang of this and your first several measurements will likely be wrong.  Don't trust your measurements until you start seeing the same numbers several times in a row.

You'll also want a dial indicator and mounting system for measuring the crank straightness and of course for dialing in the cam.

Edited by TimZ

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