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KevvinG's 3.0L Stroker Build


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#21 madkaw

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Posted 03 December 2016 - 12:23 PM

Not sure there is all good things to say about Isky either. I got wrong numbers from them for my cam card . It took many calls to get right. Then my buddy ordered a similar cam from Isky - same ordeal but almost no support.
I guess there's bad deals to be found everywhere . I plan on using a Rebello kit, but hope my outcome is better .
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#22 30 ounce

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Posted 03 December 2016 - 02:26 PM

I would definitely source a cam from Rebello...He has done a lot of research in this area and has some good low lash cams.  I used Isky 490/290 cam and had no problem.  I also ordered it directly from Ron Iskenderian and he also helped with the best compression ratio vs gas vs altitude recommendation.  Cam, compression, flow rate of head are all related so make sure and get these right.  And don't be afraid to go a bit bigger than you might think...my idle was a bit lumpy but it set you back in the seat after 3500 rpm. 



#23 madkaw

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Posted 03 December 2016 - 02:34 PM

Once again- different customer , different results . I am happy with my cam and it has held up well so far. Just surprised that after my ordeal my buddy also gets a bad cam card . Would you not be checking before selling the Datsun cams. I mean the numbers weren't even close.
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#24 KevvinG

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Posted 07 December 2016 - 05:13 PM

I was finally able to dive into the stroker kit!  Gerry (30ounce) packaged everything very well and everything arrived in great shape and looks exactly as advertised.  Next up is to clean up the carbon deposits off the pistons and remove the rod from the damaged piston.  The crank looks fantastic, though I don't have anywhere to put it for now so I put the box back together and put it away for now.

 

The pistons and rods

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The damaged piston

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Bearings and ARP Studs

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Threw it all in a container to keep the dust off of it until I have some time to work on it

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And last but not least, the crank!

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Edited by KevvinG, 07 December 2016 - 05:14 PM.

'77 280Z w/ 3x 40DCOE18


#25 steve260z

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Posted 31 December 2016 - 04:56 AM

Before you do anything regarding the head find out what is pin height is on the piston. Or ask the seller what the deck clearance was on his unshaven block.


3.1L Stroker, F54, P90, 9.9CR, .8mm Metal Head Gasket, Schneider Stage 2 Cam,Header, Exhaust, Weber DCOE 40s

Build:  http://forums.hybrid...-antonio-31l-z/

& E92 335i 6 Speed manual, Cobb flash tune: 400hp


#26 TimZ

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Posted 01 January 2017 - 07:16 AM

I'd love to have Whitehead do the entire build for me but I'm also taking this as an opportunity to dive into engine building.  It may go horribly wrong and backfire on me but part of why I'm doing this instead of say swapping in an RB engine is to be able to enjoy an engine I've built myself!  That and I'm trying to keep costs as low as possible

 

Good for you - have you read this thread (stickied at the top of the page)? Read it several times.  

 

Engine assembly isn't that difficult, but it _is_ very tedious if you want to do it correctly.  TonyD and PMC raceengines do a really good job of outlining many of the finer points that often get skipped over.  If you want to enjoy an engine that you built yourself, get yourself a good set of inside and outside mics and take your time.


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#27 KevvinG

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 03:29 PM

Steve, I had a sheet with all the pertinent info, I have to find it and corroborate with Dave at Rebello racing to make sure all my numbers are correct before I continue.

 

Tim, I haven't read it yet but I sure will before I get to work, thanks!  I'm glad to hear that it's not difficult, I don't mind tedious.  I kind of find tedious projects relaxing and given that I won't be pulling my engine from my car until this engine is done I'm in no rush so I can do it right.  Do you have any recommendations on sizes and brands for the micrometers?  I see a whole range of them and don't know which one I might need.


'77 280Z w/ 3x 40DCOE18


#28 KevvinG

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Posted 10 January 2017 - 03:34 PM

SO there have been more updates, I've picked up more parts!  Since the last update I've gotten:

 

- Crank Girdle

- AZC Oil pan (opened but unused)

 

and last but not least... an N42/N47 longblock!

 

I'm in class right now but when I get the chance I'll post pictures of the engine in the trunk of my poor '06 Jetta.. I picked it up on my way to Ottawa for $200CAD and it spent the rest of my 4 day, 1000km round trip torturing the rear suspension of my car.  I was really skeptical of being able to load the engine without a hoist but 3 of us rather easily managed to load and unload the engine!

 

I haven't had much of a chance to dig into it at all, I turned it over with a breaker bar and a 27mm socket and it's a little tight but not seized, it's currently sitting at my buddy's place until I clear out some space in my garage


'77 280Z w/ 3x 40DCOE18


#29 TimZ

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Posted 14 January 2017 - 08:35 AM

Tim, I haven't read it yet but I sure will before I get to work, thanks!  I'm glad to hear that it's not difficult, I don't mind tedious.  I kind of find tedious projects relaxing and given that I won't be pulling my engine from my car until this engine is done I'm in no rush so I can do it right.  Do you have any recommendations on sizes and brands for the micrometers?  I see a whole range of them and don't know which one I might need.

You're going to need to be measuring bearing clearances in the 0.001" range, so you'll want a micrometer with resolution down to 0.0001" (or better).  I was able to borrow a set of nice Mitutoyo digital Mics from work.  Mitutoyo, Starrett, Fowler, etc are all likely good brands (I'm not an expert on which is best).  You may be able to get by with something cheaper if you can verify that they have the required accuracy and repeatability.

For the outside mics you will need to be able to accommodate the main and rod journal diameters, plus your desired bearing clearance.  Generally for the inside mic you use a small telescoping rod to find the ID and then lock down the rod and measure it with the outside mic, if that makes sense.  Then subtracting the journal's OD from this ID gives you the bearing clearance.  It takes a while to get the hang of this and your first several measurements will likely be wrong.  Don't trust your measurements until you start seeing the same numbers several times in a row.

You'll also want a dial indicator and mounting system for measuring the crank straightness and of course for dialing in the cam.


Edited by TimZ, 14 January 2017 - 01:55 PM.

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Wisdom is not truth
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