Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Engine block getting 12 volts

Electrical issue Bad ground

  • Please log in to reply
34 replies to this topic

#21 Miles

Miles

    Miles ahead!

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1761 posts
  • LocationSacramento, CA

Posted 06 December 2016 - 02:27 PM

Recommend that you buy this book: Basic Auto Electricity by StreetWorks Rod and Custom Products

 

 

 

 

http://www.watsons-s...lectricity-book

 

 

http://www.aplusroda...rod/prd1913.htm

 

 

 

You can buy it on-line or at your local speed shop.

Attached Files


Edited by Miles, 06 December 2016 - 02:36 PM.

“Life is like arriving late for a movie, having to figure out what was going on without bothering everybody with a lot of questions, and then being unexpectedly called away before you find out how it ends.”    -Joseph Campbell


#22 Leeroy

Leeroy

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 39 posts
  • LocationFresno, CA

Posted 10 December 2016 - 06:22 PM

Ok so I figured out why it was grounding. I had that black wire with the ring connector connected to the starter positive bolt. I removed it and I no longer ground the starter, but I have no idea where it goes. I also don't know where that yellow/red wire goes. Any help would be appreciated.

Now the new issue is that I don't think I'm getting any power to the ecu. The green LED doesn't light up when on the on position. I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking when turning the ignition switch to the on position. The starter also doesn't want to fully crank the engine. I can hear it engaging and trying to turn the flywheel but that's it. I will try to have the starter tested at the local parts shop tomorrow.

#23 Leeroy

Leeroy

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 39 posts
  • LocationFresno, CA

Posted 10 December 2016 - 06:26 PM

Here's the two wiresAttached File  IMG_0974.JPG   75.96KB   2 downloads

#24 Leeroy

Leeroy

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 39 posts
  • LocationFresno, CA

Posted 10 December 2016 - 06:32 PM

Also, this relay is constantly clicking when I attach the battery cable. I'll have to do some more research on what it is and what it's for.

Attached Files



#25 88dangerdan

88dangerdan

    Always Here

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 249 posts
  • LocationStockton Ca

Posted 12 December 2016 - 10:56 AM

Don't know if this helps
Attached File  20161212_105055.jpg   118.41KB   0 downloads

#26 NewZed

NewZed

    Clandestine Moderator

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5076 posts
  • LocationWashington County, Oregon

Posted 12 December 2016 - 11:20 AM

Here's the two wiresattachicon.gifIMG_0974.JPG

Attached Files



#27 Miles

Miles

    Miles ahead!

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1761 posts
  • LocationSacramento, CA

Posted 12 December 2016 - 12:23 PM

Ok so I figured out why it was grounding. I had that black wire with the ring connector connected to the starter positive bolt. I removed it and I no longer ground the starter, but I have no idea where it goes. I also don't know where that yellow/red wire goes. Any help would be appreciated.

Now the new issue is that I don't think I'm getting any power to the ecu. The green LED doesn't light up when on the on position. I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking when turning the ignition switch to the on position. The starter also doesn't want to fully crank the engine. I can hear it engaging and trying to turn the flywheel but that's it. I will try to have the starter tested at the local parts shop tomorrow.

 

Check your battery.


“Life is like arriving late for a movie, having to figure out what was going on without bothering everybody with a lot of questions, and then being unexpectedly called away before you find out how it ends.”    -Joseph Campbell


#28 Leeroy

Leeroy

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 39 posts
  • LocationFresno, CA

Posted 12 December 2016 - 01:24 PM

Don't know if this helps
20161212_105055.jpg


It does thanks, but I don't know why I have 3 wires coming out. I thought that black wire with the ring connector goes there too but it grounds my starter.

#29 Leeroy

Leeroy

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 39 posts
  • LocationFresno, CA

Posted 12 December 2016 - 01:29 PM


Here's the two wiresattachicon.gifIMG_0974.JPG


Thanks for the photo helps a lot. Now I still don't know where that other one goes.

#30 Leeroy

Leeroy

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 39 posts
  • LocationFresno, CA

Posted 12 December 2016 - 01:40 PM

[quote name="Miles"

Check your battery.[/quote]

The battery has 12.6 volts. I actually got it to crank. There's just no spark or fuel. Fuel pump relay doesn't click when turned to the on position and I don't hear the fuel pump priming. I still get that rapid clicking from that black relay near the steering column, which I don't know what it's for.

#31 Miles

Miles

    Miles ahead!

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1761 posts
  • LocationSacramento, CA

Posted 12 December 2016 - 01:48 PM

The battery has 12.6 volts. I actually got it to crank. There's just no spark or fuel. Fuel pump relay doesn't click when turned to the on position and I don't hear the fuel pump priming. I still get that rapid clicking from that black relay near the steering column, which I don't know what it's for.

 

Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for a 280ZX and you will know why the fuel pump isn't running. You will also learn where all the wires go.


“Life is like arriving late for a movie, having to figure out what was going on without bothering everybody with a lot of questions, and then being unexpectedly called away before you find out how it ends.”    -Joseph Campbell


#32 Leeroy

Leeroy

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 39 posts
  • LocationFresno, CA

Posted 12 December 2016 - 02:04 PM

Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for a 280ZX and you will know why the fuel pump isn't running. You will also learn where all the wires go.


Thanks, I've done quite a bit of searching and looking through the xenon website but they don't have everything in there. I think I'm just going to rewrite everything back to the way it was(stock) and see how it works because I've been getting positive outcomes pouting wires back to where they originally were before I followed the swap guide.

#33 cgsheen

cgsheen

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 529 posts
  • LocationArizona

Posted 13 December 2016 - 10:17 AM

http://www.nicoclub....service-manuals

 

You need the Factory Service Manuals and wiring diagrams for both of your cars - 280Z and 1982-1983 280ZX.  Then make sure you understand that turbo swap wiring diagram.


Edited by cgsheen, 13 December 2016 - 10:24 AM.

1974 "Early" 260Z: '83 L28ET - F31 ECU MAF Coil TPS - T04E - FMIC - 400cc Injectors - MTX-L wideband - NIStune enabled! - '83 5 speed - coilovers - Big Brakes up front - Sakura Garage, Tempe, AZ


#34 Leeroy

Leeroy

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 39 posts
  • LocationFresno, CA

Posted 14 December 2016 - 12:50 PM

http://www.nicoclub....service-manuals

You need the Factory Service Manuals and wiring diagrams for both of your cars - 280Z and 1982-1983 280ZX. Then make sure you understand that turbo swap wiring diagram.


Thanks for the link! I have the 280z paperback manual but it's all torn so this helps a lot. I will do some research and reading

#35 skirkland1980

skirkland1980

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 859 posts
  • LocationMarietta, GA

Posted 20 December 2016 - 09:26 AM

If the block has 12 volts the block is not grounded.
:1983 280zx turbo, L28ET, custom cam grind, 96 saab 900 intercooler w/2.50" piping, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, megasquirt II v3.57, 540cc injectors, walbro gsl392 255lph fuel pump, aeromotive regulator, -6 supply lines, custom fuel rail, MSD ignition wires, MSD 8202 coil, homemade boost controller, Garrett TC4305 turbo, 70mm throttle body, Godzilla BOV, Turbonetics wastegate, custom intake, custom turbo header, Cooling Mist H2O/meth injection, 20psi boost, all stock body, stock interior and weld draglite wheels, TH350 trans 4000 stall with B&M 'street stick' shifter and hughes trans brake, nitto nt555R drag radials, best 1/8 mile of 7.53@ 98 mph




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users