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jessejames

Stronger motor mounts

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I don't have these but they look like there a good quality product, but don't take my word for it ! lol and i just ordered them !

 

There also the Kameari ones

 

http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt52434/pd1014192/KAMEARI_S30_REINFORCED_ENGINE_MOUNTS_

Edited by Rob L

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If you have the know-how, have you considered re-casting your original mounts with new urethane? Much cheaper and will give you the results youre looking for.  Im running a custom trans mount on my Daily 2012 impreza i made due to the bounce of the driveline/shifter on gravel. Its damn near solid yet still comfortable.

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If you have the know-how, have you considered re-casting your original mounts with new urethane? Much cheaper and will give you the results youre looking for. Im running a custom trans mount on my Daily 2012 impreza i made due to the bounce of the driveline/shifter on gravel. Its damn near solid yet still comfortable.

Care to elaborate?

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Care to elaborate?

Different product out there can be cast to what ever you want and cure to a nice product you can replace dam near every bushing in your car with. Some 2 parts can even be poured they are so thin before they cure. Flexane is a popular one ive seen, 2 part box liners, windshield urethane.... The shore ratings are different for them all, some even available in multiple strengths. The possibilities are endless.

I didnt know a product like this existed packaged/advertised towards the car crowd. Thanks for the link!

Polyurethane is not inherently stronger than rubber.  It's easier to work with, generally, so the aftermarket guys can get crazy with it.

Not nessessarly stronger than rubber, but depending on the rating it could be stiffer.  When OP says he wants stronger mounts i assume he means stiffer. Id bet most of us are not putting down the kinda power that makes engines leap from the bay.

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Don't forget adhesion.  The picture that the Energy Suspension link shows is just an old rubber mount filled with urethane to make it more solid.  Getting good adhesion to the metal plates the factory mount uses will probably be difficult.  Doesn't matter how strong or stiff it is if it peels off of the steel.  Could be one reason that ES has that interlocking design.  It puts a compressive load on the material and takes much of the tensile load off of the metal/PU interface.  Just saying, it's not as simple as it seems and mistakes can cost.

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 it's not as simple as it seems and mistakes can cost.

 

Also a bunch of time and sourcing for nothing ....this company gives you two nice motor mounts for cheap ...$165 usd to my door ...if thats expensive to you guys, I think your in the wrong game .

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Your right nothing wrong with saving as much as you can in this game .

 

I love that people see a part on here and then tell you that it can be done at half the price ...its great for the community.

 

With these cars now though in this day and age ...nothing for them is cheap anymore ...parts are rare and scarce especially in my city and we have 1 million people here .

 

The datsun world now is expensive ...you cant get cheap parts anymore ...so when i see a nice set of motor mounts like this for under $200 ...just buy them and save your time .

 

I mean to get 250 hp out of these cars its almost 8000- 10000 grand for motor alone ....so i aint going to complain about the mounts for my 10G motor being expensive at $160 doll hairs

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You have plenty of choices. You are on a swap forum after all lol. Staying with the stock datsun stuff is the only time you really get burned.

 

You spend as much as you are comfortable with. You can spend $400 on a set of authentic fairlady mirrors or you can buy ones for a Celica for $30-50. You can get 250hp out of these cars pretty easy, nitrous, turbo, supercharger, it is just a matter of how much you want to spend. 

 

Is there a reason you need stiffer mounts? I had stock replacements on mine, and a really low strut bar that I notched to clear the valve cover. Left about a 1/4 inch for the valve cover to move before hitting the bar and the paint never came off my valve cover. Mckinney used to do bespoke poly mounts for I think $150, they may still be able to whip you up a set, it is pretty similar to the RB20 mounts afterall. 

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Would really like to hear a review of how these feel in the car as well. I am looking at buying a set too!

 

I'm looking for stronger motor mounts for the L24.  I dont want to go solid mount.  Does anyone have experience with these?

 

https://silverproject.eu/en/shop/nissan/solid-engine-mounts-for-datsun-240z-260z-nissan-s30/

 

Anyone know of any other motor mount options?

 

Thanks,

 

Jesse

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So I Bought them already and installed these light night. They make a very noticeable difference in how the car drives. The power from the car is much more responsive and smooth. It really reduced the drivetrain play, so when you press the throttle, it reduced some of the "clunk" these cars have common issues with. This difference could be seen when giving the car power and letting go of the throttle. so power transfer each way feels tighter .

Overall, much more fun.

 

As far as noise goes. You can feel a harsh vibration when turning the starter(no big deal). Also when the engine was idling(about 800rpm) the whole car has a pretty noisy and felt like the dash was vibrating. its not over the top noisy, but if you car is a DD or built to be comfortable I would consider it to loud. When it came to driving though, I couldn't tell any difference significantly in noise level!

 

I HAVE TO KEEP DRIVING ON THEM TO SEE HOW I WILL FEEL IN THE LONG RUN because I do drive my Z regularly. The vibration at idle was non existent when the engine was warming up(1,200-1,300rpm). So I will try raising my idle to 900-950rpm to see if that solves the idle vibration issue.

 

Some extra info:

I was running new oem mounts and they were already showing alot of wear after about six months, they were running fine for DD but disappointing for spirited driving. And Now I have a 3.0 too.

 

New transmission insulator

 

Poly transmission crossmember bushing

 

New oem diff mount

 

Poly mustache bar bushing

 

I'm looking for stronger motor mounts for the L24.  I dont want to go solid mount.  Does anyone have experience with these?

 

https://silverproject.eu/en/shop/nissan/solid-engine-mounts-for-datsun-240z-260z-nissan-s30/

 

Anyone know of any other motor mount options?

 

Thanks,

 

Jesse

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So I Bought them already and installed these light night. They make a very noticeable difference in how the car drives. The power from the car is much more responsive and smooth. It really reduced the drivetrain play, so when you press the throttle, it reduced some of the "clunk" these cars have common issues with. This difference could be seen when giving the car power and letting go of the throttle. so power transfer each way feels tighter .

Overall, much more fun.

 

As far as noise goes. You can feel a harsh vibration when turning the starter(no big deal). Also when the engine was idling(about 800rpm) the whole car has a pretty noisy and felt like the dash was vibrating. its not over the top noisy, but if you car is a DD or built to be comfortable I would consider it to loud. When it came to driving though, I couldn't tell any difference significantly in noise level!

 

I HAVE TO KEEP DRIVING ON THEM TO SEE HOW I WILL FEEL IN THE LONG RUN because I do drive my Z regularly. The vibration at idle was non existent when the engine was warming up(1,200-1,300rpm). So I will try raising my idle to 900-950rpm to see if that solves the idle vibration issue.

 

Some extra info:

I was running new oem mounts and they were already showing alot of wear after about six months, they were running fine for DD but disappointing for spirited driving. And Now I have a 3.0 too.

 

New transmission insulator

 

Poly transmission crossmember bushing

 

New oem diff mount

 

Poly mustache bar bushing

how's the feel after a few months?

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My question as well. The idea that the OEM mounts were going bad after 6 months is hard to believe. The ones in the race car are 3 years old and are checked often. The ones in the street Z are even older and they're fine.

 

How the mounts are at idle or at 3000 rpm aren't a concern, I'd like to know what it's like going up to 7000 rpm, down to 3000 and back to 7000 in a matter of seconds at WOT.

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I just installed a set of these. Unfortunately it's been years since I've driven my Z so I can't give you a great comparison. I lost 2 radiators in the past due to fan contact during aggressive braking and downshifting with stock mounts, and was always unhappy that nothing stiffer and captured was available off the shelf.

 

The parts are nice quality, but I had to clearance my drivers side mount a little to avoid contact with the steering shaft. Driving around with the hood off it definitely appears that there is almost no movement of the engine. Can't really comment on responsiveness or NVH... The car was a loud, rattly, POS before the mounts so I don't think they made much difference there =)

 

I'm happy with my purchase.

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The transmission mount is the third engine mount.  It's also designed to reduce fore and aft movement.  Something to consider if you're trying to reduce engine movement.

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Two radiators due to the fan hitting them? Maybe it's time to switch to an electric fan. Frees up some HP and space.

 

I'd love to hear from other folks who race as to whether they see motor mount movement so drastic that the fan goes into the radiator under heavy braking.

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