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'82 ZXT Epic Smog FAIL! (1042 HC!)


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#21 Connor280ZX

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 04:13 PM

Ok, with the infrared laser thermometer I got 202-206F in front of the cat, and 297-301F after the cat. This was after an 8 mile spirited drive.

N/A '82 280ZX   -  '71 240Z (L28, F54/N47) *SOLD*

 

 


#22 Connor280ZX

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Posted 15 January 2017 - 05:40 PM

Any thoughts? Still having issues

N/A '82 280ZX   -  '71 240Z (L28, F54/N47) *SOLD*

 

 


#23 NewZed

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Posted 15 January 2017 - 06:13 PM

 got 202-206F in front of the cat, and 297-301F after the cat

Running rich.  The converter "burns" hydrocarbons that didn't get consumed during normal combustion.  Heat is produced.



#24 Connor280ZX

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 03:09 PM

I mentioned that when holding the engine speed at 2000 RPM, that the ECU light does not blink, or come on at all for that matter.

I've been corresponding with a local shop that specializes is classic Datsun/Nissan cars, and the owner advised that I put a multimeter to the o2 sensor connector and read voltage at 2000 rpm. He told me that the voltage should fluctuate between 0.01-1.4v constantly at that rpm and should not remain steady. The lower the voltage, the more the ECU is trying to enrichen the mixture, and the higher the voltage, the more lean.

I'm getting a rock steady 0.021v throughout ALL rpm ranges including idle and 2000 Rpm, which means the ECU is trying to enrichen the mixture. HOWEVER, no matter what I do to change the mixture (pinching off return line, introducing vacuum leaks, unplugging CHTS etc) I cannot get a different voltage result. Tried 3 different o2 sensors and swapped ECU'S but the results stay the same! I'm at a total loss... May the Z gods have mercy on my soul.

N/A '82 280ZX   -  '71 240Z (L28, F54/N47) *SOLD*

 

 


#25 (goldfish)

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Posted 27 January 2017 - 02:22 PM

Check the harness wires from the ECU to the sensor.  Ohm them out make sure there is not to much resistance.  






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