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Datsun 240z Rear Hatch Sill Rust Repair


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#1 240zethan

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 01:57 PM

Hi,

I am new to this forum and was just looking for some general information on some rust repair I will be doing soon. My z has some rust on the hatch sill plate and I bought a new panel that was cut out from a parts car. The piece I bought is the sill and the latch mechanism. The piece has the about 6 inches of the tail light panel attached underneath it also. I have also attached a picture of the piece I bought for reference. I was just looking for any advice on replacing this part. I was planning on just cutting out the part on my car and welding in the new one but I have never done this before so I'm just looking for anyone who has done something like this.

Thanks in advance!

-Ethan

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#2 grannyknot

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 03:17 PM

Well, if you have never done anything like this before you should really practice before you start cutting into your car. Hit you tube and watch some vids,  It is probably just your sill plate that needs replacing so you have get yourself a spot weld drill and separate the sill plate from the rest and the same on your replacement piece. Once you get the rusty sill plate off you car it will look something like this,

Attached File  DSCN1222.JPG   236.56KB   1 downloads

You will need to grind down any rust that remains under the sill plate so that both the car and the replacement are clean bare steel.

It's not that this can't be a DIY job but if you want quality result this can't be the first project that you start with.



#3 240zethan

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 03:44 PM

I was originally thinking I could do that but most of the metal under the sill plate is also rusted on my car, that is why I decided not to buy just a sill plate. I have done some welding before and I was planning on doing some practicing before I do this also.

Does anyone think I'll have any issues replacing the whole sill plate and the structure underneath it?

Any information is appreciated!



#4 rturbo 930

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 04:47 PM

I don't think simply cutting out and welding in the piece you have there is the way to go. I would take your replacement piece apart by the spot welds, and remove the top sill plate on your car and see what you need to repair. In other words, repair the upper and lower sections of the sill plate separately. Patch the lower part as needed, and install your new sill plate on top. And as a general rule of thumb, you should try to do things as the factory did it, ie., use spot welds, don't just weld it in along the edges. I've seen people do that, and I don't know why they do it.


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#5 240zethan

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 05:11 PM

Here is what the rust looks like on my car. To me, it looks like the rust is pretty bad and has eaten away some of the supporting structure underneath the actual sill plate. Would it still be best to take apart my patch panel and just use parts of the structure and then spot weld the sill plate on?

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#6 rturbo 930

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 05:18 PM

Would it still be best to take apart my patch panel and just use parts of the structure and then spot weld the sill plate on?

That's more or less what I suggested in my post, and it's what I would do in your situation.

 

Drill out the spot welds, take the top piece off, and see what you've got.

 

Your sill doesn't look that bad, but I agree that it's probably worse underneath.


Owen | 1976 280Z | 1986 Jetta | 1953 CJ3B

A car is a hole in the air, suspended there by four rubber doughnuts which you can not eat.
Into this hole, you throw money, which you will never see again.

Buy my stuff: CLICK HERE


#7 240zethan

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 05:31 PM

Alright I just wanted to make sure that that's what you still suggested I should do after seeing what mine looks like. Thank you very much for your help.



#8 socorob

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 06:01 PM

I drilled my slam panel off and there were just a couple pinholes underneath I spotted with the welder. Since the slam panel isn't really a structural piece, I used bodypanel glue with a spot weld at each end. I can push my car with it and it doesn't budge.post-37191-0-69519400-1389583414.jpg


1978 280Z - LS1, Improved racing oil pan baffle, JTR Headers, Johns Cars Mounts, JTR intake - T56, MGW shifter-GM cruise control - Infiniti Q45 R200 diff - Techno Toy Tuning suspension with Konis front and rear - Vintage Air Compac - Z32 rear brakes - Q45 rear hubs - Lizard Skin sound and heat - 2003-2004 G35 wheels - 86 Z31 front hubs, Modern Motorsports rotor adapter, 86 Z31 front rotors, Toyota calipers - 2002 Miata seats ...in progress so far. http://forums.hybrid...to-ls1-t56-ttt/


#9 RebekahsZ

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 07:07 PM

Hard to believe that is the same car, Rob.


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#10 whatnow123

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Posted 21 February 2017 - 08:01 AM

I don't think you used enough clamps :D


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#11 socorob

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Posted 21 February 2017 - 08:44 AM

That was 3 or 4 people worth of clamps. I would have used more, but that was all I could scrounge up on such short notice.


1978 280Z - LS1, Improved racing oil pan baffle, JTR Headers, Johns Cars Mounts, JTR intake - T56, MGW shifter-GM cruise control - Infiniti Q45 R200 diff - Techno Toy Tuning suspension with Konis front and rear - Vintage Air Compac - Z32 rear brakes - Q45 rear hubs - Lizard Skin sound and heat - 2003-2004 G35 wheels - 86 Z31 front hubs, Modern Motorsports rotor adapter, 86 Z31 front rotors, Toyota calipers - 2002 Miata seats ...in progress so far. http://forums.hybrid...to-ls1-t56-ttt/





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