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toolman

Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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Yes, the ducts in the radiator support are constructed with sheet metal.   I followed the basic pattern of the factory panel.  Those extra holes will probably used for AC

condenser hoses.  Larger holes may be necessary  if I go to a PRO-CHARGER supercharger for the intercooler.   In that case. new grill would  be constructed too.

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 First picture is the completed radiator core support.   It is welded to both sides of the front fenders and to the square tubing frame.   Picture  2 show the rear of the support.

I drill holes in the inside of the front tubing to lighten it and for looks.  The third picture shows the front area where the bumpers and hood hinge are located.   Spacing of core support and 

hood hinges are critical to prevent interference of moving parts.  Check clearance before welding support in.    Next step was to strip the engine compartment  and weld up any small 

unnecessary holes.    But I discovered the area under the battery holder was corroded.   So the holder was cut out.  Photo 4 shows the corrosion.  Pic #5  is corroded  area is to be cut out.   The last pic is the top view of the patch to be installed .

 

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First  picture is the top view of the patch welded in.   Second pic shows the bottom view of the patch.  I have not decided whether to reinstall the battery holder or relocate it to the rear of the car.

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First pic is top view of restored battery holder.  Second is the bottom view of the holder.   The third pic is the battery holder "test fitted".  I still have not decided whether to

install the holder or a marine type of battery box in the rear of car.   The last pic is the firewall after I plugged unnecessary holes.

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IMG_1912.MOV    Just returned from the SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas.   The ROAD KILL 71 240Z with Mustang 5.0 with Ford truck turbo blowing thu Holley carb.

Low budget build but with a  lot of fabrication work.

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IMG_1884.JPG    A clean Z car with fender flares

E we

IMG_1883.JPG   Bored out motor with  Weber carbsIMG_1867.JPG

IMG_1866.JPG     Wide flared 240Z car.  Someone told me that there was  a early Z with a Skyline twin cam motor but I must have missed it.   There were hundreds of cars and trucks to see at the show.

 

Edited by toolman

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Back to the Build.IMG_1958.thumb.JPG.02fccca66580d5e19e617ee9f4b22eb1.JPG  wire brushed the cowl area but vent must be removed to

clean area around vent box.  So vent cover was carefully removed.IMG_1962.thumb.JPG.fd9e4711443578078c382887358251cf.JPGAfter cleaning , area was primed with self-etching primer to prevent rust before media blasting.IMG_1964.thumb.JPG.913c3e921c05253687ccb20e2c26b6f7.JPGDriver side cowl after priming.IMG_1965.thumb.JPG.c644bd7ad9df1d9c44caff4dca05c856.JPG

                                                                                   Vent cover after sand blasting and painting with weld thu primer

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            One of the reasons that I went to the SEMA Show 2017 was to check on the latest

LS motors.  This motor is the LS376/480 the updated version of the LS3.  It basically has a cam change.  the motor produces 495HP and 473 ft lbs of torque.  Perfect for me.  IMG_1955.thumb.JPG.d290e057a2d93c7ecf0c7b8f3298bde2.JPG.IMG_1936.thumb.JPG.97d6ad035f33e2c0d44fe7bc83e13802.JPGThis Chevrolet High Performance manual has all necessary part numbers to

build and install their motors in almost any car or truck.  It gives even measurements for engine and its accessories(air conditioning,power steering,etc).i

choose files...Click to choose files.url

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IMG_2025.thumb.JPG.1330d703a6a60a1fdefcb5de4f3e63db.JPG Tools used for undercoat and paint removalIMG_1979.thumb.JPG.4bc327ba961457e2a986d845f69443da.JPG   The Veteran Day holiday provide me additonal time to work on my car.   I tack welded

all of the seams in and out of the engine compartment,IMG_1987.thumb.JPG.e562a32d952541ef05cdd288f15b5b7e.JPGStrut tower  also welded,IMG_2001.thumb.JPG.558c2419313b4559114a2a76b181764b.JPG

               A 4 1/2 electricgrinder with twisted wire cup brush was used befotre blasting.    The interior of the car masked off so the compartment could be media blasted whjile keeping most media inside the car.   All open holes in firewall were masked off using duct tape.  The windshield area was covered with large pieces of cardboard.    Canvas and plastic sheeting  covered doors and hatch areas.    Face respirator and face shield were used when media blasting.  In this case,  80 grit abrasive was utilized.    I used a large wet/dry SHOP VAV to recover the media and reuse the media.  A wire mesh filtered the recovered media before reusing.. IMG_2004.thumb.JPG.56ab224a52d32f7dd1ce22e3916b8996.JPG IMG_2019.thumb.JPG.03d5d2216d326b1a9625c61bbe8f3934.JPG

self etching primer applied to prevent corrosion,   The 16 gauge plates above the frame railings reinforce the floor panels.

 

 

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 Decided to beef up the seat mounts and keep them off the floor to prevent corrosion.  I utilized  1" square box tubing with reinforcing plates on each end.

Even if I go to different seats, these mounts should be a good base to start with.     IMG_2079.thumb.JPG.07677961690c55c9e8d1f8380f8eea17.JPG   driver's side mountsIMG_2078.thumb.JPG.228312da68bbd1b49268cd75c2c0415f.JPG   passenger's mounts.   Thanks Richard,  most people don't realize how much work is actually involved in this type of build.

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Hatch section was masked off carboard,plastic sheets. duct tape and plywood to control sandblasting.IMG_2149.thumb.JPG.8b5598085ac7e22adbf31f71ee731034.JPG

Used a plywood sheet to lay down on to do the sandblasting.   It was tight and hard to move around and blast.  

 

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After blasting, still more cleaning necessary.

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I haven't decided about the tire well yet.  But am leaning to remove it and replace it with a fuel cell.

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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IMG_2224.thumb.JPG.f87711bf492aa1ac5d1849b3ec3fe11f.JPGI needed more room to better job sandblasting so blocked off the front hatch area.IMG_2227.thumb.JPG.03f9cc75901600b959ca59adb715011e.JPGPut a large plywood to hold up the blue tarp covering the open hatch area.IMG_2225.thumb.JPG.66787f336ac98de4b7955f1c366baaf5.JPGRichard, the spare tire area was cleaned.  Saved for now.IMG_2229.thumb.JPG.c8a9b8972138f63e1acd8e9e4dc92927.JPG

After blasting, all seams were clean out and spot welded.   This area will be primed with self etching primer to prevent corrosion.

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Edited by toolman

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IMG_2244.thumb.JPG.f0f684712870d11d9e011a2001a102cb.JPGThe car was p[aced on its side to remove rear undercoating.IMG_2258.thumb.JPG.c3c9b6664377f67c83849bf78eaca17a.JPG

This area is really tight to remove the undercoating.  Mostly the undercoating had to heated with the heat gun then hand scraped off.  The air scraper was used only on large open areas.IMG_2234.thumb.JPG.ed6a49f61619cf8684e4df3cffda98f2.JPG

 

After scrapping was done, the 4 1/2 grinder with wire wheel removed most of the remaining underseal.IMG_2259.thumb.JPG.4e30563077fbfe60cde857958f43ac25.JPGThen the area was media blasted with Number #60 grit abrasive.   This media is one step rougher to remove heavy underseal in tight areas.   Even so, I had media blast this area several times to do a decent job.

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IMG_2273.thumb.JPG.6fe2f15545d481f92ffd702b9cea5bce.JPGAs if the Holidays wasn't keeping me busy already,  I had a plumbing leak in the house to repair.   But I managed to work on my car.  I wanted to "box in" the tension rod support area.   I painted the inside of the box with black paint.   I used 16 gauge metal for the inner and outer sides of the box.  The interior of these pieces were painted with weld through primer. IMG_2276.thumb.JPG.cef712044ebc6a5ba9d2694a18957a80.JPG

 

                                                                                                                                                         Then  they were tack welded in place.IMG_2277.thumb.JPG.ebd3e1f5a03938042e2bf3815f2379c4.JPGThen  it was covered by self etching primer to prevent corrosion.IMG_2268.thumb.JPG.a0fe9ccf9eced629dbab5155854c5376.JPG

 

I can across a deal that I couldn't  pass up.  A 2013 Chinese 50CC 4 stroke Moped for only $200.  It has only 10 miles on the odometer!!   It wasn't running  but had compression.  Probably carb or ignition problem.   Merry Christmas, everyone!!

 

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Finally got some time to work on the Z again.  This is after a trip to Japan, Holiday stuff, get the scooter running and fixing the house drain pipe,

Used couple of days to remove the rest of the undercoating and paint on the bottom side of the left rear wheel well and quarter panel area.IMG_2356.thumb.JPG.0cd7ccb9c360b9217fd4214771380fbc.JPGLooking up from the ground to left/rear quarter panel

These areas were covered with thicker than factory underseal so made it more difficult to remove.IMG_2355.thumb.JPG.5df73084ab0586ee24109d3d4479f15f.JPG

In case, you are wondering about the brazing in the upper portion of the r/wheel well- this is old( 40 years)  sheetmetal extension from wheel tube

to the added metal fender flares.   This area might have to be altered as the new tires might be 245/40 x 17 with 12" wide wheels and new flares

might have to be set higher.

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  Doing some of the small welding stuff before wet media blasting.   IMG_2364.thumb.JPG.414a0d8e9909b78fdf863a32d7ea5f26.JPGStabilizer mounting holes

  IMG_2366.thumb.JPG.dd720b68cf41242da0dc7b9d92bd1d5e.JPGTwo 8mmx 1.25 nuts welded to 1/8 x 6" steel plate

  This mounting was taped to 3/16 tubing to install in frame tubing.IMG_2370.thumb.JPG.fa1f80d9856a9d830ccff1eb2204622c.JPGIMG_2372.thumb.JPG.3e373f3d791b44523b4fe9866830bd17.JPG

The two bolts are loosely installed.  the tape is scrapped off to remove braket off tubing,  Both bolts are tightened down.  Then each bolt is removed and checked individually 

for  hole alignment.  With alignment done,  the mounting plate is plug welded to frame rail.  I hope this additional details were helpful to someone. 

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   Sorry for not posting in awhile.   Had rewire my Honda ATV, paint patio railings and my wife hit a parked car.  Then we went to Hokaido Snow festival in Japan.IMG_2592.thumb.JPG.110820864cc6797af5c69e37fb3fa5a7.JPG  Nismo Festival had all sorts of Nissan car-street to race carsIMG_2613.thumb.JPG.d8bf1db6297aa12d80ccc72a9821a17a.JPGDrifting is very popular in Japan.  Probably because it does not     require a large race track.   Also, the locals can participate in drifting as it is not as costly as road racing and use basically flat and empty  parking lot.IMG_2590.thumb.JPG.93813bacf1b8b7fc32d4b3c622a84976.JPG

 

  Now back to the Z project.  I decided to make a temporary paint spray booth in my garage.  It will be only for epoxy priming for my Z.  Not sure how radical that I will go with this booth.

Might use 1 1/4" PCV pipe to build the booth frame.    It will have intake and exhaust filters and lights probably LED ones.   As you can see,it will be a positive pressure booth.   The main

reason for the booth is to prevent epoxy primer from going on everything in my garage.    That stuff is impossible to clean off.  My Man Cave is getting more elaborate quickly.IMG_2580.thumb.JPG.104afeb55b665eb4c9303d2e865cf020.JPG   inside view of booth fanIMG_2582.thumb.JPG.c09b34292c5c81b97b764336a0f63768.JPG   Outside view of fan with louvers open

Edited by toolman

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I wanted my spray booth to be easy to utilize and store away.    After searching the Internet for ideas, I decided to just build the booth that would be the best fit my situation.   The booth  would

consists of basically four 5/16' x 4" lag screws inserted into the garage rafters.   One reason being that this method will completely clear the garage door when it is closed.   Also another

advantage of this design is its versatility.   The booth dimensions can be changer just by moving these four bolts and  3/32" cables.   I used plastic sheeting 25' long x 9' high and 6 mil

thick.   I think the thicker sheeting is superior unless the booth was going to be used only once.

IMG_2620.thumb.JPG.e7501e5ffc13c202538c58e434000b83.JPGThe top edge of the sheeting was folded over 2" and glued  to add strength.  General Tool 3/8" brass grommets were installed into this edge area.  They were spread apart 24".  More grommets can added if necessary for support.

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A 5/16" x 4" lag screw is installed in the garage rafter.  All four 3/32" cables has one 5/16" turnbuckle to adjust tension to prevent sagging.IMG_2641.thumb.JPG.b1667f7b5b4cb695dbc04485c04b4a3f.JPGThe rear and right side booth walls assembled.  Note that final trimming of the bottom edge of the sheeting has not been done yet.  Still waiting for sheeting top hooks to determine final height.

Edited by toolman

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Sorry about the inconvenience,  I deleted the Garage Booth-continued post and am reposting it here.

IMG_2702.thumb.JPG.ae05a2674a3bab1b7b171dbac58c9b09.JPG Closeup of the right corner of garage booth

It uses a 2 1/2" lag screw to fasten two 3/ 32" curtain cables in garage roof rafters.   The turnbuckle provides cable tension adjustment.

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A 1" PVC pipe is used to be booth corner vertical support.   It is slotted with a cutoff tool to fit tightly into the corner cable arrangement.IMG_2711.thumb.JPG.0d5e5531c8d886170ed738f176d0319a.JPG  The slotted PVC provides a stable vertical brace.

Next a bottom mount of this PVC pipe must constructed.

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IMG_2729.thumb.JPG.55a2ad5dcd8d507f7e14363eff29e41c.JPGDecided to enlarge the booth size from 1 1/2 car to 2 car size for various reasons: more room to paint, left side curtain closer to fan and easier

to use.   Also, now the garage  door does not have to be closed to utilize the curtains.  The following  photos show the improved booth design.IMG_2732.thumb.JPG.f65e933acc1166ccb610c0268e38b6d9.JPGIMG_2735.thumb.JPG.884e8e5e65ff827b6bcc57986b19ca76.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

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After trial fit,  24" was removed from the bottom of the curtains.   4"  was allowed on the bottom to be held by a 2 X 4. 

 

 

 

 

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Made a duct out of scrap sheeting to connect fan to curtain.  No sure how to attach duct to curtain.  Might try putting the duct hose into another hose section attached to the curtain.  

 

IMG_2739.JPGLeft curtain must also be modified for fan to blow through but still allow to be folded up.

Edited by toolman
pics and text mixed up

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