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Casper0878

CXRacing vs Tech2motorsports engine mounts

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I was wondering if anyone has experience with these 2 brands of engine mounts. The price difference is pretty big so curious if one is CXRacing is just cheap quality and price or if perhaps Tech2motorsports overcharges ($1,250 for engine mount kit without tranny stuff) for their mount kit even though it includes a modified cross member and CXRacing doesn't.

 

Also, a buddy of mine used the CXRacing mounts and says the only thing he didn't like is that the engine sat a bit more away from the firewall than he would've liked. 

 

Has anyone used the Tech2 engine mounts? How far from the firewall is the engine? Could you please post pics for comparison?

 

Thank you!

 

 

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I had the tech2 swap kit { http://shop.1jzgteswap.com/240Z-280Z-1JZ-2JZ-SWAP-KIT-DAT-001.htm } and it was good quality. I never ended up using it because I went with an LS setup. My LS motor and trans mounts are all CX racing and there actually good.

 

Did you sell the Tech2 kit or do you have it available for sale? They told me it was bolt on but someone just told me I would need to weld the cross member to the car. Which is it?

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One is a complete kit, the other is just the mounts.

 

I really didn't like the CX racing ones. They push the motor a good two inches to the passenger side and makes the motor sit tilted by a good inch and a half look really carefully at their pictures.

 

E9C2B859-9E9C-4F8A-B690-9CFC899BEECF_zps

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Posted (edited)

One is a complete kit, the other is just the mounts.

 

I really didn't like the CX racing ones. They push the motor a good two inches to the passenger side and makes the motor sit tilted by a good inch and a half look really carefully at their pictures.

 

E9C2B859-9E9C-4F8A-B690-9CFC899BEECF_zps

 

Yeah my buddy sent me pics of his engine as it sits and you are right, it is a bit off to the passenger side. I saw pics of the yellow 240Z that Tech2 built for SEMA a few years ago and it seems to be perfectly centered, at least compared to the hood latch mechanism. Can't tell from the pic if it sits further back or not.

post-48225-0-05439200-1492529239_thumb.jpg

post-48225-0-10560500-1492529246_thumb.jpg

post-48225-0-69201300-1492529250_thumb.jpg

Edited by Casper0878

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Its hard to pick out, but yea you can definitely see it skewed once you start using frames of reference for the cx kit. The problem is that there isn't much room for the turbo and more importantly the exhaust when you offset the motor like that. I fabricated my exhaust so it isn't visible when you look under the car, with the engine sitting where it wants to sit and shifting over the transmission you loose a lot of real estate for exhaust. With it centered again I was able to reuse my exhaust.

 

The breaking point purely on price is whether you have access to a drive shaft shop/fabrication shop. If you want a bolt in kit the tech2 kit is very comprehensive includes the drive shaft and shifter relocator if I'm not mistaken, Ryan will have to verify.

 

On fitment I really don't think the CX kit is very good. With a few tweaks it could be much better. I will also say that I needed to hammer the mount to get it to even trial fit, and working with stainless is really difficult for your home mechanic, I blew through probably 4 or 5 bits trying to drill a new hole using oil and going really slow. Getting my mig setup to weld the stainless was also expensive ~$100. 

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Its hard to pick out, but yea you can definitely see it skewed once you start using frames of reference for the cx kit. The problem is that there isn't much room for the turbo and more importantly the exhaust when you offset the motor like that. I fabricated my exhaust so it isn't visible when you look under the car, with the engine sitting where it wants to sit and shifting over the transmission you loose a lot of real estate for exhaust. With it centered again I was able to reuse my exhaust.

 

The breaking point purely on price is whether you have access to a drive shaft shop/fabrication shop. If you want a bolt in kit the tech2 kit is very comprehensive includes the drive shaft and shifter relocator if I'm not mistaken, Ryan will have to verify.

 

On fitment I really don't think the CX kit is very good. With a few tweaks it could be much better. I will also say that I needed to hammer the mount to get it to even trial fit, and working with stainless is really difficult for your home mechanic, I blew through probably 4 or 5 bits trying to drill a new hole using oil and going really slow. Getting my mig setup to weld the stainless was also expensive ~$100. 

 

Yeah the Tech2 kit includes all of that but only if I decide to go with an R154 transmission. I was thinking of going with the Nissan 350z CD009 tranny instead so I would only need a partial kit from Tech2, just the stuff to mount the motor, which they quoted me at $1,250. Seems like it should be a bit cheaper since they are taking out the driveshaft along with the transmission mount. I thought more like half price but it is what it is.

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The cross member is where most of their labor is from the looks of it. If you are going to be using a CD009 then you will need someone to fabricate you a trans mount as well as remove the trans tunnel brace most likely. Then at that point you could just have that person make your motor mounts. 

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I found a guy on FB selling the McKinney transmission mount for the CD009. He also has the CXRacing engine mounts. Said I could have it all for $350. That's why I am on here debating which motor mounts to go with. Might just get the tranny mount for now so I can at least have it.

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Posted (edited)

The offset of the engine favoring the passenger side from the CX mounts as mentioned, is a major consideration as exhaust manifold, turbo placement and down pipe all would be affected. I think there are few options as it stands for pre made exhaust manifolds that fit within the S30 engine bay space.

A few pics of the previous owners (Whom I bought my Tech 2 kit from) car with the cross member in, as well as my complete kit with driveshaft, and lastly more Tech 2 shop car with Engine placement and kit in....

post-736-0-24536600-1492569971_thumb.jpg

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post-736-0-51566400-1492570368_thumb.jpg

Edited by Nelsonian

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The offset of the engine favoring the passenger side from the CX mounts as mentioned, is a major consideration as exhaust manifold, turbo placement and down pipe all would be affected. I think there are few options as it stands for pre made exhaust manifolds that fit within the S30 engine bay space.

A few pics of the previous owners (Whom I bought my Tech 2 kit from) car with the cross member in, as well as my complete kit with driveshaft, and lastly more Tech 2 shop car with Engine placement and kit in....

 

Yeah even if only slightly, it still gives me less room to work with. Plus I have OCD and seeing the engine off centered would drive me nuts lol

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Hmm if it wasn't made out of stainless I would say that would be good to use as a base to modify especially at that price point. Stainless is just a pain to drill holes and manipulate in general.

 

Just to keep in mind the CD009 option isn't all happy go lucky. The transmission is probably a cheaper part of the whole deal.

 

Shifter relocator ~250

Custom drive shaft ~300

Bell housing adapter/transmission adapter if using an auto bell housing ~400

Custom flywheel ~500+

Twin disk clutch (you really don't want to use a single disk if your planning on pushing more then 400 hp) ~2k+

 

Still better off then a getrag V160/161, but yea not all fluffy bunnies. 

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Hmm if it wasn't made out of stainless I would say that would be good to use as a base to modify especially at that price point. Stainless is just a pain to drill holes and manipulate in general.

 

Just to keep in mind the CD009 option isn't all happy go lucky. The transmission is probably a cheaper part of the whole deal.

 

Shifter relocator ~250

Custom drive shaft ~300

Bell housing adapter/transmission adapter if using an auto bell housing ~400

Custom flywheel ~500+

Twin disk clutch (you really don't want to use a single disk if your planning on pushing more then 400 hp) ~2k+

 

Still better off then a getrag V160/161, but yea not all fluffy bunnies. 

 

Oh yeah I know. Been talking to Brett over at Collins Adapters and he recommends this transmission over the 300zx anyday. Even though it will be more work to put in, they are more readily available should something happen to it.

 

What I am researching now is the differential. My buddy has the 300zx tranny with the 3.7LSD diff and he says he has problems getting more than 5psi in 1st gear due to having to shift. I still have my stock 3.54 differential. Will that work with the CD009? Should I get the Q45 differential which is also 3.54? I know some Supras run 3.266 differentials.

 

I was thinking of using a Precision Turbo 6266 so nothing too big. It would spool up decently quick and top out probably when I need to shift, idk just pulling this out of my butt lol

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The alternative would really be the R154 or the AR-5 I would think. I will say the CD009 is definitely appealing in build, the extra gear, and the availability.

 

Yea you kind of are. Boost in first gear as a desired marker is a very odd thing. No dyno run I have seen does power runs in first unless they are setting up a boost by gear protocol or something of that nature.

 

You really don't build much boost in first gear. One-our cars are very light for these drive train options, two-with any readily available LSD option you are going to be in the 3.7 + range, and third-trying to build boost in first is odd save for something like roll racing which if you have to build boost you would employ something like rolling anti-lag or brake boosting. 

 

Z32

1st - 3.214

2nd - 1.925
3rd - 1.302
4th - 1.000
5th - .752

 

CD009 

3.784

2.324
1.624
1.271
1.000
0.794

 

R154

 

  • First Gear: 3.251:1
  • Second Gear: 1.955:1
  • Third Gear: 1.310:1
  • Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
  • Fifth Gear: 0.753:1

 

The CD009 looks like it has an even larger first gear which means you are going to get even less out of it. They all have about the same top gear ratio with the CD009 still ending up on the shorter end. 

 

Depends on your goals really. If you are wanting to do top speed stuff then going with a lower ratio would be better, if you are doing auto cross you want to maximize your second, maybe third gear ratios to try and run the whole coarse. If you are doing track work 2-4 is probably where you will spend your time short of a long straight if the course has one. Generally with a boosted car with the exception of a really small turbo or a really high reving engine you don't want a really tight grouping. 

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The alternative would really be the R154 or the AR-5 I would think. I will say the CD009 is definitely appealing in build, the extra gear, and the availability.

 

Yea you kind of are. Boost in first gear as a desired marker is a very odd thing. No dyno run I have seen does power runs in first unless they are setting up a boost by gear protocol or something of that nature.

 

You really don't build much boost in first gear. One-our cars are very light for these drive train options, two-with any readily available LSD option you are going to be in the 3.7 + range, and third-trying to build boost in first is odd save for something like roll racing which if you have to build boost you would employ something like rolling anti-lag or brake boosting. 

 

Z32

1st - 3.214

2nd - 1.925

3rd - 1.302

4th - 1.000

5th - .752

 

CD009 

3.784

2.324

1.624

1.271

1.000

0.794

 

R154

 

  • First Gear: 3.251:1
  • Second Gear: 1.955:1
  • Third Gear: 1.310:1
  • Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
  • Fifth Gear: 0.753:1

 

The CD009 looks like it has an even larger first gear which means you are going to get even less out of it. They all have about the same top gear ratio with the CD009 still ending up on the shorter end. 

 

Depends on your goals really. If you are wanting to do top speed stuff then going with a lower ratio would be better, if you are doing auto cross you want to maximize your second, maybe third gear ratios to try and run the whole coarse. If you are doing track work 2-4 is probably where you will spend your time short of a long straight if the course has one. Generally with a boosted car with the exception of a really small turbo or a really high reving engine you don't want a really tight grouping. 

 

This is not going to be a daily driver, just a fun weekend car. Maybe some canyon runs or a few laps at the track at events but that's about it. I just want a fun street car. I am definitely not trying to win any races or events in this thing as I am not going crazy modding the engine itself. Besides injectors, coils, ecu and single turbo the internals are staying the same. Having so many options available makes it really hard to decide what to go with. Things are so much easier on my RSX-S as there is only 1 engine I can swap for bigger numbers. What would you recommend? I want to get the most out of my turbo of course but also want something comfortable to drive. Gas mileage in my final gear isn't an issue as I'll only be driving this on the weekends.

 

Do you have any info on the Q45? I looked online and some say that 90-96 is an R200 3.54 VLSD while others say it is 90-97. Then it also says 97 and up is an R230. Can't find a straight answer

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If you look it up on nicoclub and such I think you can find it, I'll do a search later.

 

Really it is a matter of future proofing to a point. The initial investment of going one transmission over the other is the one to get over, granted with 2jz transmissions you can usually offload whatever option you go with for a good price. If you are planning on autocross and such a good taller 2nd gear would be preferable. Given the 6 speeds seem to split the lower gears you would either have to choose to shift between two and three, keep bouncing off the rev limiter in two, or be a bit of a dog out of the corners in 3. If tight two handed stuff like canyon driving is your thing a 5 speed might be better. If it is just for fun, a 6 speed would allow you to shift more, with the right lower gear ratio you would maximize your acceleration as well.

 

Really depends on what transmission you like. Some don't like how the R154 shifts (with a short shifter I really like mine), some don't like how the CD009 shifts (too smooth/soft). Others will say the exact opposite. I would say to try and see if you can try out the transmissions respectively and make your decision based on feel. My friend finds my transmission strange it is super short and requires a lot of effort, I find some of his cars odd because it feels so loose I don't know which gear I'm in. 

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If you look it up on nicoclub and such I think you can find it, I'll do a search later.

 

Really it is a matter of future proofing to a point. The initial investment of going one transmission over the other is the one to get over, granted with 2jz transmissions you can usually offload whatever option you go with for a good price. If you are planning on autocross and such a good taller 2nd gear would be preferable. Given the 6 speeds seem to split the lower gears you would either have to choose to shift between two and three, keep bouncing off the rev limiter in two, or be a bit of a dog out of the corners in 3. If tight two handed stuff like canyon driving is your thing a 5 speed might be better. If it is just for fun, a 6 speed would allow you to shift more, with the right lower gear ratio you would maximize your acceleration as well.

 

Really depends on what transmission you like. Some don't like how the R154 shifts (with a short shifter I really like mine), some don't like how the CD009 shifts (too smooth/soft). Others will say the exact opposite. I would say to try and see if you can try out the transmissions respectively and make your decision based on feel. My friend finds my transmission strange it is super short and requires a lot of effort, I find some of his cars odd because it feels so loose I don't know which gear I'm in. 

 

Spoke with the people at T3 and since I plan on using their rear conversion kit I would need a 96 or lower Q45 differential. The 97 and up doesn't work. This is what they told me:

 

1990--->1996 Z32 300ZX Non Turbo comes in 5 lug hubs only (R200) 
CV's are 27 spline to 27 spline large   
CV Shafts have 5 star flanges
5 lug hubs CAN be swapped onto S13 and S14 CV's
More attractive rear calipers
E brake as a drum inside rotor
4.08 Final gear ratio
 
1990--->1996 Z32 300ZX Twin Turbo comes in 5 lug hubs only (R230)
CV's are 28 spline to 28 spline
CV Shafts have 6 star flanges
5 lug hubs from this car can NOT be swapped onto S13 or S14 CV's  
More attractive rear calipers
E brake as a drum inside rotor
3.69 Final gear ratio
 
1990---->1996 Q45 comes in 5 lug only (stronger R200)
CV's are 28 spline to 28 spline
CV Shafts have 6 star flanges
All Had Viscous LSD's
5 lug hubs from this car can NOT be swapped onto S13 or S14 CV's
Standard sliding rear caliper
E brake as a drum inside rotor
3.54 Final gear ratio
 
And yeah, making this initial decision is difficult. I don't want to choose a transmission that isn't optimal then have to re-purchase the transmission, transmission swap kit to the motor and a driveshaft. Most likely I will be going with the Q45 VLSD 3.54 differential, just gotta decide what tranny to match it up to.

 

What differential do you have with your R154?

 

As far as turbos, I was thinking of going with a Precision turbo 6266 

 

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If you're gonna drop the money on the TTT rear end, I'd use the 300zx twin turbo or the Q45 rear.

The main benfit of the Q45 is that it's usually cheaper, and easier to find in U-pick lots. 

The main benefit of the 300zx TT is that you're bumping up to the R230 rear end, which means you can run as much power as you realistically want.

 

That being said, the shortnose R200 on the Q45 did just fine pushing around a much heavier car than our S30's that was also powered by a V8. You'd need a whole lot of power to destroy one of those. Plus the lower gear ratio can be nice depending on your transmissions final drive and if you don't want to have to shift into 3rd to hit 60 if that's important to you.

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That is good info.

 

I really don't think anyone will be destroying the rear differential itself save for something like a really worn bearing or some other pre-existing condition. The main benefit from changing out is the axles and elimination of rear stub axles. I've seen 800+hp cars running an R200, I suppose bumping up to the R230 couldn't hurt, but then again, you know, when is too much too much.

 

My ring gear is off of the Z31 non turbo and I'm running the VLSD from a J30. Looks like I have a 3.54 gear ratio matched up to my R154 now. It cruises nice, but I'm coming from a 4.11 before. I didn't really get a chance to get into it before I killed my engine. 

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If I got the Q45 diff I would probably just get the whole subframe. Would be cheaper at the junkyard than to get the parts individually. Then I could have a 5 lug in the rear with the beefier axles that T3 would rebuild when I purchase their rear end conversion kit.

 

How do you like the R154 with the 3.54 diff?

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