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Different Progressive springs


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#1 walkerbk

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Posted 3 weeks ago

So to start off, I am cheap. I hate over paying on car parts just because my car is older than most of the peoplease that work in parts stores. Some times I can get away with it, other times I just flip open the wallet and hope the wife doesn't knowtice.

I currently have chevy chevelle springs (moog 6556) on my ls1 280z 2+2 and although they ride great in the front with the extra weight, they are way to stiff in the rear at around 197 lbs. So I have been planning on swapping to coil overs for the ability to change springs and I came across a website that has specs for moog springs

http://classiccarspr...ifications.html

Looking through this list, cc257 is a progressive spring that is 149lbs at 15.5 in height so it is only slightly stiffer than the stock springs and very close to the exact hight.

What do you guys think?

Btw, these springs are for a 90-97 honda accord I believe

Edited by walkerbk, 3 weeks ago.


#2 RebekahsZ

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Posted 2 weeks ago

Avoid progressive springs. You can buy springs really cheaply from speedwaymotors.com. They are cheap enough there to let you play around with the rate and find whatcha like.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#3 grannyknot

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Posted 2 weeks ago

Avoid progressive springs. You can buy springs really cheaply from speedwaymotors.com. They are cheap enough there to let you play around with the rate and find whatcha like.

I've read that several times on this forum, what is it about progressives that you don't like?  Ah, something to do with racing?



#4 RebekahsZ

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Posted 2 weeks ago

The coils on the soft end of the spring are usually collapsed "coil bound" at rest. So, you essentially wind up with a short spring with no compression travel. It doesn't take much to bottom out the suspension.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#5 walkerbk

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Posted A week ago

That is why I was looking at these springs. The stock ones are right around 100lbs/in and with these being 150lbs/in I figure that should give the soft side about a stock feeling and then the firm side enough to reduce roll when cornering.

#6 Chickenman

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Posted A week ago

I've read that several times on this forum, what is it about progressives that you don't like?  Ah, something to do with racing?

If you're doing any " Canyon Carving", Autocrossing or Track Days progressive springs can make the turn-in non linear. Not a nice feeling. Even a nice twisty highway can feel " Spooky ".  It's good to have a car that behaves the same through all phases of a corner. Entry mid-corner and exit. Progressive springs tend to screw that up. Especially on a 40 year old chassis that was not designed for progressive rate springs. 



#7 walkerbk

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Posted 6 days ago

You make a good point. I still think it is a viable option, just not for what I need. I guess I'm going to chop everything up and go with coil overs.




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