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No overheat, still get oil cooler for race car?


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#1 turbogrill

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Posted A week ago

Hi,

 

I do 8 hour non stop racing with my 280zx. I change synthetic oil and filter after every 8 hour race session.

 

I am curious if I should get an oil cooler or not for my 280zx race car. I never have overheating problems or even close to overheating. So far the cooling system has been impeccable. I race in Texas where 100F is not unusual. 

It's a stockish 2.8 NA.

 

Does it only makes sense to add an oil cooler if the temps are getting high? Or is it always good to have one?

 



#2 PseudoSport

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Posted A week ago

I've been racing 24 hours of Lemons with my 280Z. The cooling system has been great but we have noticed oil pressure dropping at higher RPMS a few hours into the race. We're running 15w40 but i'm thinking the oil is getting too hot and thinning out. Changing the oil after the first days helps with pressure but I plan on installing an oil cooler for our next race to see if that helps. Figure it can't hurt. We also have six 14 hour races on the bone stock engine and its been holding together ok. 


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#3 turbogrill

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Posted A week ago

We do chump and Lemons on a stockish engine. Adding an oil cooler is one more thing that can fail so would be great if it could be avoided!

We are running 10w30.

 

Our engine is finally starting to give up after 5x16 hours of racing on a junkyard engine. Haven't done anything besides oil changes.

A few races ago we run the engine without any coolant for about 45mins. Oil was squirting out of the dipstick. This caused low compression on 2 cylinders, but it survived more races after that.

 

Who runs a jeep in autocross???


Edited by turbogrill, A week ago.


#4 JelmerPatrol

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Posted A week ago

10W30 is to thin for the old L28. I've ran 10W40 and my stock L28 smoked a bit with that. I've switched to 20W50 and it stopped smoking.

These engines aren't made for that thin oil.


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#5 Leon

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Posted 5 days ago

10W30 is to thin for the old L28. I've ran 10W40 and my stock L28 smoked a bit with that. I've switched to 20W50 and it stopped smoking.

These engines aren't made for that thin oil.

 

My 260Z FSM specifies anything from a 5W-30 to a 20W-40 depending on climate. I'd argue that 20W-50 is actually too thick and you can go as thin as 5W-30 which I would not hesitate to use in my motor.



#6 Chickenman

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Posted 4 days ago

5w-30 oil 40 years ago had a lot of ZDDP in it. Modern 5w-30 contains very little. ZDDP is essential for bucket type lifters or sliding finger followers. You may or may not get away with certain low ZDDP oils on a stock Z engine. Depends on the oil. But in a Race Car or a Weekend Warrior,  with stiffer valve springs and a high lift , it can result in rapid destruction of the Cam lobes. We see it all the time on Audi VW forums and those engines have a lot less spring pressure and valve lift ( 5 valves per cylinder, 6 mm Diameter valve stems ) than an L-seriers. 

 

Anything that is Energy Star rated is low content ZDDP. Thicker oils such as 20w-50, 15w-50, 10w-40 and Diesel oils are not Energy Star rated and usually contain sufficient percentages of ZDDP . It's all buyer beware and you have to really research oils these days for use in Vintage cars, Hot Rods or modified engines. 

 

5w-30 was a recommended weight for Cold climates, but it is certainlt too thin for a southern States climate. These engines ar older designs with larger bearing clerances than a car fom the Mid 90's and up. Things change in 40 yaers. 






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