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Jss240z    0

So while swapping my rear diff I got into the while I'm at it mode and decided to replace my rear wheel bearings. I followed a good write up that another site has. Everything is together now but the drivers side is tough to turn. One hand can JUST turn the hub.

Has anyone else had this issue and how did you solve it?

I'm thinking it must be the spacer between the two bearings but wanted to check before I did just in case there might be something m missing.

As always, any help is appreciated!

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NewZed    56

Did you measure the spacer and compare to the table in the FSM?  And did you torque the nut to spec.?  I've read that the spacers can get a bit crushed after miles of use.  Nissan calls it a "distance piece" and it's matched to the hub casting.

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Jss240z    0

I did not measure the spacer. I don't know what the length is supposed to be anyway. Does anyone have that measurement?

I think the seal is seated because when I have the flange installed without the nut it turns free enough. The second I put the nut on and torque it a bit is when it gets tough to turn.

So I'm looking looking at a spacer replacement?

Is there a difference between the length of spacers drivers side to passenger?

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NewZed    56

The spacer matches the hub casting.  So it could be different side-to-side if the hub castings are different.  There's a letter stamped in to the casting that should match the letter on the spacer..

 

It's all described in detail in the Rear Axle chapter.

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Miles    32
Posted (edited)

Be sure that the grease seal and the inner bearing are completely seated. You may have to use a an old bearing as a drift and tap them into place.

 

Also see: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html

 

http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?t=7307&highlight=&sid=a22e20007238292ecb090456230f708a

 

 

 

 

Assuming there were no issues before changing the bearings, the inner spacer would only be a problem if a PO had mixed up spacers somehow.

 

See atch picture from the FSM

post-178-0-85556900-1500172356_thumb.jpg

post-178-0-55413700-1500172380_thumb.jpg

post-178-0-76922100-1500172997_thumb.jpg

Edited by Miles

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Miles    32
Posted (edited)

I did not measure the spacer. I don't know what the length is supposed to be anyway. Does anyone have that measurement?  See my post above.

I think the seal is seated because when I have the flange installed without the nut it turns free enough.

When torqued down, the nut pulls the entire assembly together causing an improperly seated seal to rub. Been there many times.  Adding more torque on the nut usually does nothing. Pull the axle and use an old bearing as a drift and tap all around the seal/bearing to seat it. Listen and you will hear a change in sound when the bearing is fully seated.

 

The second I put the nut on and torque it a bit is when it gets tough to turn.

When torqued down, the nut pulls the entire assembly together causing an improperly seated seal to rub. Been there many times.

 

So I'm looking looking at a spacer replacement? Not as long as the PO didn't change them or the hubs.  See post above for instructions.

 

Is there a difference between the length of spacers drivers side to passenger? Not unless the PO changed the hubs.  Never seen this on unmolested 240Zs.

Edited by Miles

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Chickenman    4
Posted (edited)

^ In addition to the above very good information. As mentioned, normally you should not have to change the spacer when replacing bearings. The spacer is matched to the Hub machining, not the bearings. The spacer is a big strong hunk of metal and is not going to compress. 

 

It's probably an improperly seated bearing cup or seal.

 

But, if everything checks out and the bearing is still tight. it's possible  that there is a tolerance issue with the bearings you have purchased. Normally a good quality bearing should be dimensionally identical to the original bearings.  A 6203 from SKF  will be  identical to a  6203 from OEM Nissan.

 

But with some of the cheap crap on the market these days, you have probably gotten a bearing ( or two ) that is a bit " Thinner " than spec.  Chinese and Taiwanese " clones " are infamous for being " out of spec ". 

 

What brand of bearing did you get and where did you buy it?

 

SKF, Timken and NTN are all usually pretty good. You are better off buying at an Industrial Bearing supply store rather than local Parts suppliers or some " Online " suppliers . Pay a bit more for higher grade and quality bearings.  OEM Nissan bearings are also very, very good with dimensions and quality.... as are most OEM parts. .  

Edited by Chickenman

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Jss240z    0

I made sure to get Oem bearings. Skf brand. I'm own a machine shop and definitely know that cheap bearings are NOT good.

Now that I think about it some more I do remember that same wheel being a little harder to turn before I changed them but didn't really think of it a big deal because the wheel was on and obviously easier to turn as opposed to trying to turn the hub.

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Chickenman    4

See post #7. There are only three sizes of spacer. Marked A, B and C.  Stamping on hub should match stamping on Spacer.

 

Miles included a screenshot of factory sizing which includes dimensions of  each spacer. Should be easy to check. If wrong spacer  ( too short for hub ) you could add a very thin bearing shim.  You would know where to source those locally.   

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NewZed    56

Right , reading the posts again a bit SLOWER I guess if the spacers are matched to the hubs they could be any length and completely different. Sorry for asking that multiple times

 

Find the letters on the hubs first.  If both sides have the same letter, then swapping the spacers wouldn't matter.

 

In post #6 where i said give it a beating, I meant a few hard corners and miles, to warm things up and maybe reseat things.  The way they designed that system the nut and washer on the axle are used as the press for the bearing race.  So if things were tight initially on the races and their seats, even the high torque might not get them fully seated.

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