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TONY C

Is this Bad or forge ahead?

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Not great to be too misaligned. Also depends on your axles. CV joints will take more angle. With U-joints you might be at the limit of what it is happy at depending on your suspension travel.

 

As above do you have a measurement? That would get us the angle of misalignment.

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I flipped my mustache bar and built everything to suit and ran my car with that misalignment for 1-2k miles. U joints were still tight. 

 

Is there a reason you can't move it back? Depending on you you mounted it or how the mount is made doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to correct that now unless you have a drive shaft and all that made up already. 

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Posted (edited)

Well I made the front  mounts similar to MM pieces using pics of they're mounts as reference.  Now I might have made them 1/2" shorter at most. But that still puts they're kit center line ahead.

I can totally remake the mounts/ Or make the rear mount 1st and then make the fronts. But the diff just seems to fit easily where I put it. And the rear of the diff once a cover and mount is added it will hit the rear cross member. causing the diff to need to be lower in the rear. As I have it sitting the diff is perfectly level and square to the car. And the front yolk just barely clears the front cross member.

Looks like the MM kit makes you cut a big area out of the front cross member/lca mounts to clear the drive shaft.?

I guess I just need a bunch of pics of an 8.8 mounted on an S30 to see placement better. 

Edited by TONY C

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If I'm not mistaken I believe a lot of cars will go dog bone to remove that rear RLCA mount. 

 

Getting everything into alignment now would be better then finding out that it is causing some pre-mature wear and having to have your axles shortened, spacer made up for the drive shaft, and the mounts moidified. The only concern is that even in cars with a lot of axle movement they tend to line it up in one plane. Having the axle angled back and then moving it up and down in that plane would cause the secondary angles to be higher at the extremes via the hypotenuse of a hypotenuse type of situation.

 

On the other hand, I would say getting a better measurement standard whether that is plumb bobs and such Calculating the angle wouldn't be too difficult. If it falls in the range of the CV joint you pick then overall there is not much of a problem as you will be working in the rated range.

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Actually ended up moving it back and up about .5"  Machined a halo support and front mounts to match the trans angle. Now I am working on figuring CV's and outer bolt on bearings. 

I wish photobucket didn't screw everyone so I could post pics... 

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