Jump to content
HybridZ

2JZ engine build question


M_Dragan

Recommended Posts

^I think I had to go a good 2-3 sizes shorter on mine, you could completely twist the belt 180* (90* is tight). Also make sure it does freely spin. If someone used a different tensioner or certain ones (like between automatic and manual) have three strengthening grooves that will bind with the new pulley and need to be shaved.

 

I would say to keep certain things consistent. Like if you plan on going cheap, stay cheap. As in if you are trying to pinch pennies by not opening up the motor, then don't get a nice big brand name turbo. On my engine I found a lot of rust type scale on the exhaust valves which would come off with scrubbing. That kind of stuff goes into a turbo and you can kiss the turbine wheel goodbye.

 

CX racing mounts are really not very good, three of us used the mounts on the forum, I heavily modified mine, another member welded his in the correct spot by removing his stock mounts, and another is just kind of running as is. Construction is fine, but they place the motor too far to the passenger side and tilted. I would definitely not recommend them. I feel the 240sx ones or the LS swap mount ones would almost be better as a starting point.

 

Also if possible I would almost say not to get the JDM one if you have an option. The USDM 2jzgte has 550cc injectors and steel compressor wheels on the turbo. I think the later JDM models also come with electronic throttle bodies which would mean a conversion to a fly by wire accelerator pedal. VVTI I am on the fence. The interference fit is worrying, and a lot of the VVTI stuff in general is less spec'd then non VVTI stuff: water pump uses smaller bolts, alternator outputs less, interference fit, etc etc. Granted if you are comfortable with fabricating, souring, etc these are all very minor considerations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ill chime in on my current spending.

Set up is

1975 280z

1995 GS300 junkyard 2jzge -$200

2007 Cd009 -$600

Mounts -$300

Microsquirt harness -$80

FWD face manifold -$100

Ebay Turbo manifold -$100

Ebay GT45 -$200

Rear sump junkyard -$25

Adapter plate w/flywheel -$700

Clutch kit -$150

Fuel rail -$40

 

So far $2500. Add another grand or so in misc.

All I'm doing is head gasket,head studs rings and bearings.

Edited by jr_soliz2010
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is quite a nice work place you have there.

 

I am assuming you meant "eBay shit" instead of easy? Nothing against them at all. I have a fair bit of parts whether that is the intercooler or catch can. I've also seen turbo's make decent power. My point is if you are trying to stay low buck, then stay low buck. I bought a $8-900 turbo with a warranty so when I opened the head and found some rust scale on the valves I didn't have too much of a problem having the head rebuilt. If my turbo was a $1-300 eBay turbo then not really a consideration wouldn't really be worth opening the block at that point.

 

Just to cutoff questions at the head I would also guess by FWD you meant FFIM? What are you going to do about the throttle body? That was kind of the challenge for dexter and I.

 

Did you really get a front sump? That may prove troublesome. 


What are you running for the ignition? Looks like the distributor is removed You mentioned microsquirt harness, are you going to run a microsquirt? My understanding was their ignition control was really quite limited.

 

What adapter kit and clutch did you end up going with? 750 is cheaper then most I have seen. 150 for a clutch also seems like quite a deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, ebay not easy.

Yes fwd face. Throttle body, just anyone that fits. What trouble did yall have?

Sorry i meant rear sump. I wrote this really late lol.

I'm still debating on ignition. I dont mind distributor but i will need a spacer on the turbo.

AutoSport Engineering on Facebook makes the adapter kits and flywheels as well. Made to order so the wait is about 2 weeks.

Clutch is Action clutch and local buy. New and guy didn't need it anymore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Throttle body is massive. The only real option is like $300+. The company that supplies the flanges used to sell one for a couple hundred, but they seem to be out of stock. Dexter adapted smaller. I cut off and welded on a smaller one.

 

No worries, just wanted to make sure you weren't heading into a world of hurt with a front sump.

 

Hmm then would you be planning on cutting the hood? The turbo sticking out is always a fun little treat.

 

I'll have to add that to my list. The only option I've found that is complete was collins, their small size dual clutch was the cheapest option for a twin disk and kit and that was a solid 2k.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's how I'm getting around the whole throttle conversion deal. Got a used throttle body spacer for a 350Z, welded up to the stock manifold. I'll get another one to get the TB to clear the manifold. 350Z TB's are 70mm so it's a small size upgrade over stock as well.

 

CFMy0yG.jpg

 

My infinity 6 ecu will handle the dbw and let's me eliminate the iacv, which when sold paid for the TB and oem gas pedal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...