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mrk3cobra

Hoke Performance LS2/T56 install starts today.....

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My Hoke performance LS/T56 kit arrived today. I ordered the kit for an LS2 GTO install (alternator located low on the driver side. I will be installing a 2006 LS2 and T56 transmission from a GTO,  in my 1971 series 1 240Z. The kit looks like it is very high quality.

 

 

 

 

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Nice prep work! I received one of their beta kits and the fitment across the board was darn near perfect. All I did was swap oilpans (which I already planned on doing for road racing anyway) and that was that!

 

I do highly, highly recommend going ahead and installing a remote bleeder on the transmission before you mount it in the car. It is a giant PITA without it. Ask me how I know!  :angry:

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Great to see, and very timely for me.  Outstanding work prepping the chassis.

 

I am going along the same route but am far behind you.  I was about 80% convinced I was going to use the Hoke kit and I think you just sold me the rest of the way.

 

Branden, not sure what you mean by remote bleeder...?  You mean for the clutch slave cylinder?

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Great to see, and very timely for me.  Outstanding work prepping the chassis.

 

I am going along the same route but am far behind you.  I was about 80% convinced I was going to use the Hoke kit and I think you just sold me the rest of the way.

 

Branden, not sure what you mean by remote bleeder...?  You mean for the clutch slave cylinder?

 

I can also recommend and vouch for the Hoke kit. I've got about 200 trouble-free miles, including a few autox events on the swap now.

 

Yes, I mean for the slave cylinder. Based on where the transmission sits, it was almost impossible to bleed the clutch master cylinder after the swap. I was legitimately concerned that I'd need to drop the transmission, and kicking myself for not installing a remote / speed bleeder ahead of time. I got it done with the help of a buddy, but it was noottttt fun!

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The slight difference you can see in the cross member steering brackets is because the Hoke cross member in the picture is from a 280Z, and my old cross member is from my 1971 240Z.

 

 

One other note on the steering rack is that if you're using the Hawks headers, be sure to rotate the rack itself while it's all loose to make sure you get the rod nicely placed between the primaries on the driver's side header. I did not take care to do that and had a bit of rub initially. Thankfully, I was able to adjust it with the motor still installed... but again it took the help of a buddy and was not fun.  :mellow:

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Tried to install the steering rack on the new Hoke cross member last night. But there was a problem with the new Energy suspension urethane mounts. I was sent 2 upper mounts for the passenger side, missing the lower passenger mount.

That is weird. I just got mine in today and had to check. Mine looks like they were cast in one mold, separated and packaged.

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Getting closer to dropping in the engine. Finished the brake and clutch lines. Will finish running fuel lines this weekend. I will be using an electric low pressure fuel pump at the OEM gas tank feeding the Edelbrock fuel sump, that has a EFI fuel pump submerged in the fuel in the sump.

Will finish removing extra wiring in the engine bay that will not be used.

 

 

 

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I can say from personal experience that the factory clutch master cylinder will _not_ work, at least not with the LS6 clutch and pressure plate package that I used from Tick performance. I went with a 7/8" MC and the pedal feel is outstanding. Also my primaries are 1-7/8", 3" collector which I immediately stepped down to 2.5" to clear the transmission crossmember and keep the exhaust somewhat up inside of the tranny tunnel.

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Looks very nice. I would recommend adding Techflex over or just replace that plastic wiring loom stuff which doesn't look nice in my opinion. The techflex comes in various types of protection. I added the large diameter thermal stuff over the main wiring loom that comes thru the firewall and down the rail. I added the smaller diameter regular wrap (not as insulating) over the rest of the wiring.  You can just replace the plastic loom or add over it where you want. 

It comes in split seam just like the plastic loom so you can add with the connectors in place. Very easy to do.  You can buy it at amazon as well or other places.

 

https://www.techflex.com/prod_f6n.asp

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Finished installing the low pressure fuel pump and vent line to feed the Edelbrock fuel sump. Installed a 4 relay and fuse box for fuel pump and cooling fan relays. Installing Nissan oil and temperature senders on the LS2, then I will be dropping the engine in the car.

 

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"Clean looking build!! I've got a couple questions for you though, are you using the factory clutch master cylinder? What size primaries are your headers? I'm wondering because on hawk's site I saw everything from 1 3/4" TO 2" primaries. Or does any size fit? "

 

I installed a Tilton .725 clutch master cylinder. I have an LS6 clutch and flywheel. I have not decided on headers yet. I might go with Hawks or build my own.

 

Pete

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Very nice, steady progress!

I installed my FPR in a similar spot to your sump. You probably already know this, but you can swap the fuel rails with very little effort and place the inlet over on the passenger side instead.

Having a set of Hawks headers myself, they're probably overkill for my current NA application, and they definitely made running dual exhaust fairly challenging, but I love 'em anyway. They look outstanding, sound outstanding, and future proof the car for any extra goodies I decide to add. That said, getting them in is quite the challenge. If you decide to go with them, also make sure to fully loosen your steering rack, and place the rod in-between the two primaries before tightening down the rack or drivers side header.

PS -- I'm soooo jealous of your remote transmission bleeder, which I neglected to even consider until I had the motor and tranny bolted down. :wacko:

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BrandenZ, are you happy with how far down the Hawk headers hang. Some of the pictures I have seen looks like they hang down lower then I want. That is the only reason I am thinking of making my own. I want the maximum road clearance as possible.

 

Pete

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On 9/29/2017 at 10:39 AM, mrk3cobra said:

BrandenZ, are you happy with how far down the Hawk headers hang. Some of the pictures I have seen looks like they hang down lower then I want. That is the only reason I am thinking of making my own. I want the maximum road clearance as possible.

 

Pete

Hey Pete, you pretty much nailed my only complaint with them. The collectors are the lowest point on the car, and if you plan to spend a lot of time on the street, you'll definitely have to be extra careful. In my case, my Z sees mostly autox / track duty, and usually I trailer it. That said, I just got back from a 500-mile trip up to Deals Gap to Asheville and back home and had 0 issues on any of the surface streets or entryways...

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