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Invincibleextremes

5 lug, 4 wheel big disc brake, and coilovers for pennies using 2014 mustang spindle and brakes

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Posted (edited)

How do you position the ball joints before welding? Do you have some kind of jig to hold things so that your work is consistent and  precise? Would love to see something about your differential swap too.

Edited by wrenchtech

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Working on the rear at the same time, I should have it all together in a few days and have more pictures.

 

The ball joint is the stub cut off the 2014 mustang lower, and I trace it and cut off the pocket for the factory datsun ball joint location.  Then locate the mustang stub on the control arm and weld away.  Next to impossible to mess up... there's nowhere for it to be besides exactly where you cut out for it, because you traced it in the first place...

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7 hours ago, wrenchtech said:

How do you position the ball joints before welding? Do you have some kind of jig to hold things so that your work is consistent and  precise? Would love to see something about your differential swap too.

There's a thread in the drivetrain forum about the diff swap.  You can also follow my work on my youtube channel or it's Facebook page.  Www.youtube.com/invincibleextremes 

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When you get back keep me posted!!! Are you in Portland? I live in Washington, so I’m not too far... maybe when you have your car back together I can come check it out.  I’m petty much planning on following your foot steps and swapping my car like you did yours

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On 6/14/2018 at 7:00 AM, Suchfun240z said:

When you get back keep me posted!!! Are you in Portland? I live in Washington, so I’m not too far... maybe when you have your car back together I can come check it out.  I’m petty much planning on following your foot steps and swapping my car like you did yours

Yeah, hit me up

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56 minutes ago, takeuchi said:

What specific parts are the inner tie rods and the steering rack? 

 

Will the same one work for left hand drive?

Yes the same will work for left hand drive.  The videos go into detail on anything you need.  Just finished up the dash and put in the steering column as well.

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On 1/13/2018 at 10:52 PM, Invincibleextremes said:

Parts breakdown.

 

2004 dodge neon srt4 coilovers.  --- I bought mine for $180

2014 mustang spindles ---- $100 a pair, all day.

2014 mustang brakes.--- $100 to $300 a set, easily found.  Mine were $150...

 

What's needed to make them all work together is two 1/4 plates with 3 holes each and a welder per spindle.

 

And a hybrid 240z lower control arm that uses a mustang ball joint.

 

In my case I'm just welding a mustang control arm stub to the 240z one.

I can certainly appreciate where your going with this but I figured I would chime in.  First, I certainly respect the need to build on a budget but is someone wanted a nearly all Nissan there are options.  

 

I purchased a complete Nissan S14 rear subframe that included VLSD differential, axles, 5-lug  hubs, calipers, rotors, e-brake cables as well as front rotors, calipers, spindles, 5-lug hubs.  This was a very complete front and rear suspension minus coilovers.  It set me back $799 shipped to my door.  I removed my S30 front struts, spindles and steering knuckles and mocked up the front suspension with the S14 spindles (left spindle on the right side and vise versa) which bolted right to the existing S30 lower ball joint.  I attached the upper part of the S14 spindle to a hybrid/custom coilover supplied by BC Racing ($630).  This S30 outer tie rod is too long to accommodate the S14 steering knuckle so to temporarily allow me to roll the car around I cut 37mm out of each outer tie rod (they were junk anyway) and welded them back together.  The car now has 5-lug hobs and 4 piston S14 brakes up front for what I consider to be a pretty good deal.  I was leaning toward the T3 outer tie rods to solve my tie rod length issue but after reading another post on this forum I think I will manufacture tie rod adjuster sleeves that will accept 79-81 outer tie rods that will then mate to the S30 inner tie rods... 2 '79-'81 S130 outer tie rods, 2 M14x1.5mm Left Hand Thread inner tube adapter, 2 M14x1.5mm Right Hand Thread inner tube adapters, 4 appropriate jam nuts, 12" of 4130 Chrome Moly 1"x.063 tubing and a new inner tie rod for the left side of the vehicle can be had for about $140 (such a deal) combine this with a little TIG welding which I'll do myself means I can have great adjustability for around as the same price as the T3 outer tie rods.  And I wouldn't have to drill my steering knuckle which really doesn't excite me.  I was gonna have to buy new outer tie rods even if I stuck with the S30 original stuff so the real excess cost of the custom tie rods is only about $80.

 

As for the rears, I don't see many options to get a real upgrade without spending big bucks.  I bit the bullet and invested in the T3 rear end conversion (I'm in their 4-6 week waiting period right now).  I guess someone could also buy some off the shelf 5-lug stub axles ($330), some weld on coilovers ($630), and rear disc brake upgrade ($685) or $1675 and still have a R180 or R200 open differential.  When I think of it in those terms I don't feel bad about spending the bucks with T3.  

 

 

56209502225__5DB26B0C-3662-4182-A8A7-E2E006BB6B0B.JPG

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17 minutes ago, Jethoncho said:

I can certainly appreciate where your going with this but I figured I would chime in.  First, I certainly respect the need to build on a budget but is someone wanted a nearly all Nissan there are options.  

 

I purchased a complete Nissan S14 rear subframe that included VLSD differential, axles, 5-lug  hubs, calipers, rotors, e-brake cables as well as front rotors, calipers, spindles, 5-lug hubs.  This was a very complete front and rear suspension minus coilovers.  It set me back $799 shipped to my door.  I removed my S30 front struts, spindles and steering knuckles and mocked up the front suspension with the S14 spindles (left spindle on the right side and vise versa) which bolted right to the existing S30 lower ball joint.  I attached the upper part of the S14 spindle to a hybrid/custom coilover supplied by BC Racing ($630).  This S30 outer tie rod is too long to accommodate the S14 steering knuckle so to temporarily allow me to roll the car around I cut 37mm out of each outer tie rod (they were junk anyway) and welded them back together.  The car now has 5-lug hobs and 4 piston S14 brakes up front for what I consider to be a pretty good deal.  I was leaning toward the T3 outer tie rods to solve my tie rod length issue but after reading another post on this forum I think I will manufacture tie rod adjuster sleeves that will accept 79-81 outer tie rods that will then mate to the S30 inner tie rods... 2 '79-'81 S130 outer tie rods, 2 M14x1.5mm Left Hand Thread inner tube adapter, 2 M14x1.5mm Right Hand Thread inner tube adapters, 4 appropriate jam nuts, 12" of 4130 Chrome Moly 1"x.063 tubing and a new inner tie rod for the left side of the vehicle can be had for about $140 (such a deal) combine this with a little TIG welding which I'll do myself means I can have great adjustability for around as the same price as the T3 outer tie rods.  And I wouldn't have to drill my steering knuckle which really doesn't excite me.  I was gonna have to buy new outer tie rods even if I stuck with the S30 original stuff so the real excess cost of the custom tie rods is only about $80.

 

As for the rears, I don't see many options to get a real upgrade without spending big bucks.  I bit the bullet and invested in the T3 rear end conversion (I'm in their 4-6 week waiting period right now).  I guess someone could also buy some off the shelf 5-lug stub axles ($330), some weld on coilovers ($630), and rear disc brake upgrade ($685) or $1675 and still have a R180 or R200 open differential.  When I think of it in those terms I don't feel bad about spending the bucks with T3.  

 

 

56209502225__5DB26B0C-3662-4182-A8A7-E2E006BB6B0B.JPG

So you spent 3 times as much money for weaker parts with bad geometry... brilliant.

 

All jokes aside, if the s30 tie rods are too short, you have serious UNCORRECTABLE bump steer issues.

 

See, the s30 rack is already too short for an easy replacement to be found for power steering add ons etc....  and that's with stock steering knuckles.

 

The mustang knuckles allow the use of factory length Subaru racks to be used with either Celica inners or s80 Volvo inners, depending on the year of the rack... all the while maintaining correct geometry for bump steer and improving geometry on lowered cars over stock s30 setups.

 

And BC is a great company, they offer custom coilovers for the neon as well for a great price.  So getting high end custom valved and sprung bc coilovers from them will still leave you with a cheaper, stronger and better stopping set up.

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3 minutes ago, Invincibleextremes said:

So you spent 3 times as much money for weaker parts with bad geometry... brilliant.

 

All jokes aside, if the s30 tie rods are too short, you have serious UNCORRECTABLE bump steer issues.

 

See, the s30 rack is already too short for an easy replacement to be found for power steering add ons etc....  and that's with stock steering knuckles.

 

The mustang knuckles allow the use of factory length Subaru racks to be used with either Celica inners or s80 Volvo inners, depending on the year of the rack... all the while maintaining correct geometry for bump steer and improving geometry on lowered cars over stock s30 setups.

 

And BC is a great company, they offer custom coilovers for the neon as well for a great price.  So getting high end custom valved and sprung bc coilovers from them will still leave you with a cheaper, stronger and better stopping set up.

I think you may have misunderstood the intent of my response to your posting, I meant no disrespect I can appreciate your goal.  I can also certainly appreciate your comments well except for the wise crack but hey your entitled to respond however you like, LOL.  

 

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This is kind of off topic, jumping into a pretty specialized topic.

 

I would suggest a new thread if you would like to display your findings for others to question and comment on regarding the S13/14 front end swap. My recollection was that you could buy almost everything from Silvermine and just invert the left and the right to get the steering assembly to work. I guess the only real new thing is the off the shelf solution from one manufacturer for the coilover, I think previously it required the use of a pillowball mount from T3 or GC or what not.

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On 10/30/2018 at 4:13 PM, seattlejester said:

This is kind of off topic, jumping into a pretty specialized topic.

 

I would suggest a new thread if you would like to display your findings for others to question and comment on regarding the S13/14 front end swap. My recollection was that you could buy almost everything from Silvermine and just invert the left and the right to get the steering assembly to work. I guess the only real new thing is the off the shelf solution from one manufacturer for the coilover, I think previously it required the use of a pillowball mount from T3 or GC or what not.

Good point

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