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Nv_s30

Got 315's to fit my set up

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I was playing with the thought of running 315's on my car for the longest time so I went ahead and went for it I was getting tired of the stretched look and I wasn't about it. The fronts are 17x10.5 and the rears are 17x11.5 I posted this on Facebook groups but thought id post it here also.

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22 minutes ago, LLave said:

MEATS!

 

That looks awesome! Holy heck that is a lot of tire. The fit is perfect for your setup. What arms are you using? Look like wheel center line is moved back slightly. 

 

I am still on the stock arms trying to make up my mind on which to go with, I'm thinking about APEX engineering. I haven't adjusted the wheel center at all.

Edited by Nv_s30

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18 hours ago, Nv_s30 said:

 

I am still on the stock arms trying to make up my mind on which to go with, I'm thinking about APEX engineering. I haven't adjusted the wheel center at all.

 

 

Yeah, I think maybe it's the flare that makes the wheel arch look more centered. Apex do seem nice. TTT makes a good product too. 

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1 hour ago, LLave said:

 

 

Yeah, I think maybe it's the flare that makes the wheel arch look more centered. Apex do seem nice. TTT makes a good product too. 

 

techno toy tuning does make a good product, but I like the fact you can adjust without taking the arm off with the apex ones.

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TTT ones are H-arm, AE are A-arm with toe link. 

 

The TTT ones are track width and toe adjustable on car, but there was some talk of binding and stress given how they achieve that.

 

The AE ones similar to the ones made by several on the forum are only toe adjustable in the front instead of in the rear, I think there was discussion saying the front toe-link may be better for load path, but unsure, the rear toe link setup is nice because you don't have that kink like they do with the front toe link. The rear one looks to be non adjustable on car as in you would have to remove the spindle bolt to adjust it. Not really a problem once you have the track width set, but if you have to adjust that your alignment guy will be annoyed with you, my guy told me it was kind of a pain to get the tracking just right because you would have to disassemble the strut from the arm and check every half turn. 

Edited by seattlejester

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On 12/9/2017 at 3:21 PM, seattlejester said:

TTT ones are H-arm, AE are A-arm with toe link. 

 

The TTT ones are track width and toes adjustable on car, but there was some talk of binding and stress given how they achieve that.

 

The AE ones similar to our the ones made by several on the forum are only toe adjustable in the front instead of in the rear, I think there was discussion saying the front toe-link may be better for load path, but unsure, the rear toe link setup is nice because you don't have that kink like they do with the front toe link. The rear one looks to be non adjustable on car as in you would have to remove the spindle bolt to adjust it. Not really a problem once you have the track width set, but if you have to adjust that your alignment guy will be annoyed with you, my guy told me it was kind of a pain to get the tracking just right because you would have to disassemble the strut from the arm and check every half turn. 

Good to know now to make my decision

Edited by Nv_s30

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AWESOME! I want to build a set of wheels like that so bad! I've been looking for a used set of 3pc to bolt bigger lips to but hard to find and lots of $$$. Totally worth it though when you have a Z and your tire size starts with a 3....:rockon: Thanks for the inspiration. 

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6 hours ago, northwoodz said:

AWESOME! I want to build a set of wheels like that so bad! I've been looking for a used set of 3pc to bolt bigger lips to but hard to find and lots of $$$. Totally worth it though when you have a Z and your tire size starts with a 3....:rockon: Thanks for the inspiration. 

with my wheels and tire set up im at around 3k they are aren't too bad if you get a ok set and build them yourself.

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Those are going to look great!  

That's a really tight fit - does that tire really clear the flare on full bump?  Also, it sounds like you are already on it, but you're probably not going to want that much camber back there.  Make sure that the arms that you get will have enough inboard adjustment to allow you to pull the tire inward to get closer to zero camber - don't know about the two that you are looking at, but they are often more focused on increasing track width than reducing camber (most setups have more room to spare in the wheelwell than you are going to ;) ).  You're likely going to want to do the adjustment at the a-arm rather than via a camber plate,  since adjusting it at the top of the strut will push the tire even farther outboard.

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I have 315 on my rears and 275 up front.  I will be going with the Apex Eng stuff at the beginnig of the year but for now I am on stock stuff except for my coilovers.  I am toying with 335s but not sure yet I want to see how track adjustments come out with  the new set up. 

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12 hours ago, TimZ said:

Those are going to look great!  

That's a really tight fit - does that tire really clear the flare on full bump?  Also, it sounds like you are already on it, but you're probably not going to want that much camber back there.  Make sure that the arms that you get will have enough inboard adjustment to allow you to pull the tire inward to get closer to zero camber - don't know about the two that you are looking at, but they are often more focused on increasing track width than reducing camber (most setups have more room to spare in the wheelwell than you are going to ;) ).  You're likely going to want to do the adjustment at the a-arm rather than via a camber plate,  since adjusting it at the top of the strut will push the tire even farther outboard.

yea im on it lol I wont be running this much camber I havent adjusted the camber on my coil overs and will be getting all the arms so will get a alignment when all installed lol its just sitting there I think it should clear full bump but we'll find out haha.

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4 hours ago, texis30O said:

I have 315 on my rears and 275 up front.  I will be going with the Apex Eng stuff at the beginnig of the year but for now I am on stock stuff except for my coilovers.  I am toying with 335s but not sure yet I want to see how track adjustments come out with  the new set up. 

I got my inspiration to run wide tires with your car I love it man! I want to run 275's up front but with the 245's im already rubbing up front. I am also looking at the apex stuff and am just waiting for the fronts to come out so I can order them together. You're running way more power than my sr20 will be putting out for a while so that's fitting

Edited by Nv_s30

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4 hours ago, Nelsonian said:

I love what your cooking up there NV with this build. I was wondering how others go with such wide tires on the front. I want to run 255 fronts on my set up but will most likely run 245's with camber plates, coilovers  and adj control arms. Nice work!!!

Thank you sir its been a long road to get her where she's at but hopefully she will be on the road this upcoming summer and going to shows with her. I will probably stay with 245's unless I am feeling froggy and will make 275's fit.

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On 12/9/2017 at 3:21 PM, seattlejester said:

The rear one looks to be non adjustable on car as in you would have to remove the spindle bolt to adjust it. Not really a problem once you have the track width set, but if you have to adjust that your alignment guy will be annoyed with you, my guy told me it was kind of a pain to get the tracking just right because you would have to disassemble the strut from the arm and check every half turn. 

 

That could easily be solved with using an oversize bung and adjuster added so you  can change length on the car.  I never bothered with my set as they were made in a jig matched to the arms that came off the car.  

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3 hours ago, tube80z said:

 

That could easily be solved with using an oversize bung and adjuster added so you  can change length on the car.  I never bothered with my set as they were made in a jig matched to the arms that came off the car.  

 

That is true, I figured about the same, once set it is not something that would be revisited so I didn't see the merit in oversizing that bung or similarly using a thread adapter and loosing the diameter of the rod end shaft. It is however a feature that might be useful for someone, although that someone maybe someone driving their car to the track on thinner rims, but really really really wants flush wheels on the drive there or something?

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