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240zdex

2jzge turbo later

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So I changed the entire post from a what should I pick to I'm settled on 2jzge build in my 73.

im still striping the lexus down and haven't really gotten to far on the project because of the cold weather and Holliday season.

 I'm going to repair/replace/upgrade the stock engine parts as needed.this is going to be a modest build over a little bit of time.

 

plans/goals are to have a fun street/strip/track car and I think I shouldn't have to be over 400hp but once again it's not being purpose built for anything in particular.

 

 Suspension 

im undecided on if I want to do full coilovers or stiffen up the front end upgrade the brakes and lower it with springs.

 

Rear end is going to be a freshened up r200 that's been sitting in another project that I haven't picked up yet.

 

guages 

I would love to keep the stock gauges but I don't think it's possible across the board.

so I guess auto meter it is.

 

engine and trans mounts

im not sure what route will be best for myself at this time.

my welder friend is unsure if he would trust his welds with my life and thinks the cx racing mounts will be sufficient enough for my  expectations.

 

engine mods 

I'm wanting a front facing Intake Manifold and coil on plug set up for better eye  appeal 

distributor delete or cap delete running coils(I've read somewhere you can keep the  distributor and run coils with removing the cap and install a block off plate)

(not sure how these will effect the drivability in stock na form and if the ecu will allow for it to work properly)

power steering delete and  electronic power steering assist(Saturn vue from what I've read is the simplest route)but might just not do it depending on how the build go's,thicker head gasket,unsure about fuel injector fuel pump and throttle body size and these are important to me because I don't want to buy twice if I don't have to so I'm going to keep my head down and keep reading.

 

turbo bits

 I'm shooting for a decently priced well made front mount intercooler I know this is one to not skimp out on

 

 

i bought a used turbo mani yesterday for $50 bucks even I don't use it for the build it will allow me to mock up the engine at full  width to ensure I don't hit the strut tower.

turbo charger I'm completely lost on turbos but like stated above I'm going to keep searching on what would be a good size with with a good range of power band and not over sized and unresponsive.

 

blow off valve to be determined 

waste gate

might just buy a turbo with internal waste gate(mani I bought the kid welded the waste gate flange)

 

engine management 

looking into a few defferent routes 

my budget has been kinda short in this department and I really should invest the most here but time will tell.

option 1 microsquirt $400 with harness

option 2 greddy emanage blue with 2jzge harness $550 give or take a few $$$ depending on vendor.

option 3 mega squirt v2/3 the pricing on these confuse me but would assume around $1,000

 

theres a ton more I can put down right now but got food poisoning and my body is shutting down on me I'll keep updating and editing as I go along

Edited by 240zdex
Build in progress

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Stream of consciousness stuff is good for story telling, but makes for a very long post.

 

Your basic question is you planned on a sbf swap, have the kit for it. You found your way into an SC300 with the W58. Should you change gears and go 2jz.

 

You have time and effort invested. You probably are going to have to account for some other things that will pop up that you are not considering, jumping into another engine swap may be problematic. 350-400hp out of a JZ is going to require boost, which in turn means ECU, probably better trans then the W58, turbo and manifold, not including all the other bits. It also sounds like you are farming out quite a bit of work? That can be costly. 

 

If the 2jz is the swap you have always wanted to do, then it would be better to change gears now rather than later. If HP is your end goal then you already have progress towards a swap that will be able to reach that goal. 

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i guess I shouldn't say I'm chasing 350-400 hp at this point I really want a nice solid driver Quality vehicle that leaves room for the future upgrades at this point 

I would be content on having a sub 200 hp car if it drove nice at this point and I could get some weekend cruise action going on and upgrade the car as I see fit moving foreword at this time I don't want to say money is an issue because it always is but Im a lot more patient then I did when I was 20 So I'm not shooting for hp or track times just yet but in the long run I would like to have a cd0009 or ar5 or even a zr BMW swap so if I needed I could source parts a tad bit easier then a r154 the other options may cost a bit more upfront but long term i think any of those choices would be better off because of where I live and parts available 

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Goodness, that was a long sentence lol.

(Organize your thoughts, and try to just get the main point across, save your musings and thoughts for a build thread)

 

If you are content with modifying slowly, always wanted the 2jz, have a complete running donor car, then it might be worth it to go down that path.

 

Then again if you already have a fully functional car, swapping the drive train into another chassis seems a bit of a hassle if you don't have an end game planned. 

Edited by seattlejester

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2 hours ago, seattlejester said:

If the 2jz is the swap you have always wanted to do, then it would be better to change gears now rather than later. If HP is your end goal then you already have progress towards a swap that will be able to reach that goal. 

 

This is really the end of the thread right here.

 

You either really want the 2JZ, and are willing to pay more for it, and have it take longer, or you don't, and just finish with the Ford swap that you already started.

 

We can't tell you what you want.

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Well I thank you guys for putting up with my unorganized sentences and bantering.

i guess to answer I already have and it's time to start tearing apart the sc300.

i know you have modified the cx racing mounts seattlejester to be more centered.

I've also heard a lot of people say they wouldn't trust the stock mounts that bolt to the engine what are your thoughts on it  minus the standard boots the kit comes with?

as for the trans mount I'm not overly worried because I plan to upgrade in time.If you had to choose a trans which  way would you lean towards cd0009 ar5 BMW or anything else that would be cost affective and pretty easily sourced.

sorry for all the long post but I guess after the holidays I'll start getting things togeather and hopefully have a build thread.

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1 minute ago, Greeko said:

The cx racing kit for the R154 will require a bit of modification for the W58. It was pretty easy to do. 

That's great to know.

would you buy the engine and trans mount togeather or have the trans mount fabbed up because I don't intend to keep it for more then 2 years?

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1 hour ago, Neverdone said:

 

This is really the end of the thread right here.

 

You either really want the 2JZ, and are willing to pay more for it, and have it take longer, or you don't, and just finish with the Ford swap that you already started.

 

We can't tell you what you want.

You sir are correct only my wife can tell me what I want even if I don't want it lol.

in all honesty I guess I was looking for  reassurance  that the 2j was the better swap indefinitely.

i highly doubt anybody here will say one swap is better then another swap specially here on hybridz so I thank you aswell for your input.

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One swap really isn't better then the other as you say. Each has its own merits. You are asking in the toyota section so your answers based on traffic is probably going to be a bit more biased honestly. Ask the same question in the V8 section and they will probably steer you towards staying or maybe even pointing out the merits in a newer ford or the LS motor. The only thing that makes me suggest otherwise is that you said you have always wanted to do a xjz, if you are the type of person that won't settle for less then what you want, then better to just head towards what your end game is off the bat.

 

If you have the means, I would just have a set of custom mounts made up. It really is not difficult for any decent fabricator. Tell them you want the engine level, and you want the tube style mount with the bushings. I'm not sure what boots you are referencing, the bolts maybe? I'm using hardware acquired in the states for the most part.

 

There are lots of designs out there if you go with custom. The only reason I went with the CX mounts were because they seemed to be the easy route and similar to what I had with the 7m. If I had the space I would have just done my own, but that was at a premium.

 

I really wouldn't want to tear apart the sc300 if it runs and drives. Keep it running and driving, do the upgrades to that, and when the time comes swap it all over, it seems like your chassis may have a bit of a ways to go. The SC300 also has a nicer differential selection, CV axles, disc brakes on all 4 corners, double wishbone suspension if I'm not mistaken, power steering, etc. If I had a whole donor car, I'd be tempted to bring quite a bit of that with me.

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On 12/8/2017 at 5:06 PM, 240zdex said:

i highly doubt anybody here will say one swap is better then another swap specially here on hybridz so I thank you aswell for your input.

I don't know about that, every new engine swap I do is always going to be the best one yet.;)

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On 12/8/2017 at 4:56 PM, seattlejester said:

If you have the means, I would just have a set of custom mounts made up. It really is not difficult for any decent fabricator. Tell them you want the engine level, and you want the tube style mount with the bushings.

 

If every picture I've ever seen of the CX mounts is any indication I would definitely do this. Personally, If I was doing the jz swap I'd go insane if the engine wasn't centered in the bay.

 

On 12/8/2017 at 4:56 PM, seattlejester said:

I really wouldn't want to tear apart the sc300 if it runs and drives. Keep it running and driving, do the upgrades to that, and when the time comes swap it all over

 

Also this. Chassis work takes waaaaaayyy longer than you expect. If you decide to start the swap you'll basically have two non-functioning cars for a long time. If I had the SC I'd personally be using it as a daily and upgrading that stuff to swap over down the road. 

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Do you want torque or boost?  I was at the same crossroads when I was picking an engine for my car - I had a 1JZ supra and driven plenty of 2J's... with turbos ranging from GT35 400hp cars, to 76mm 700hp cars.  Boost is fun, but its really a highway pull type experience. I decided I wanted N/A V8 torque for the Z, since it was lighter and wanted more of a "point and squirt" backroads bomber.

 

Both are good choices, but I think you need to decide about how you want the car to drive, as the two engines will give two different experiences.

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The sc300 is in bad shape inside and out front bumper is missing a nice chunk the 1/4s are rusted and pretty much smashed on the passenger side and as I was driving it yesterday I lost all brake pressure it's a good parts car nothing more at this time.

i may just keep having the z chassis worked on while I keep sourcing the parts trans standalone intercooler fuel injectors rails turbo parts and like you said just drop it in one shot and be done.

ive Looked into using the sc300 double wishbone suspension and rear end and it seems to be a huge hassle with my intended budget.

i still have another early 260 that needs a complete restore sitting at the sellers farm(he was  diagnosed with cancer and can't move all his things to pull it out yet)

i may just keep the v8 build going and start the 2j in the 260 next winter if I can't get a buyer for my sbf parts.

 

 

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On 12/8/2017 at 2:02 PM, 240zdex said:

That's great to know.

would you buy the engine and trans mount togeather or have the trans mount fabbed up because I don't intend to keep it for more then 2 years?

 

Its a great starting point. I would just buy that mount. 

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