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280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?


supernova_6969

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40 minutes ago, Gollum said:

Have you seen my dash? I have almost zero factory wiring left, chassis or engine...

 

I removed every wire and every electrical gizmos (ECU relays etc). Saved 25lbs!

 

Please show me your dash, I also redid every wiring with Megasquirt and custom "fusebox". But still looks like crap. Need some inspiration.

 

 

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4XpPVD-tdaWq1EHdoXrL3-Jbtqn6pG3NsINUVy8E

 

Fuse panel donated from a 83 turbo. Panel is from an aluminum computer case. Front switch panel is from a macbook pro case.Switches, loads, and grounds bundled together through common terminal blocks (grounds are tired together using a home electrical box style ground strip). Obviously a bit messy inside, which will get sorted to some degree, but my main goal was trace-ability and being able to work on it without breaking my back. Whole sections can be diagnosed easily as systems and/or removed as units. You can see I used aluminum flex conduit to do my runs to main sections of the car, which makes it relatively easy to pull/repull entire runs.

 

Feel free to call it ghetto, you can see I obviously care. :-D

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Wow. 

I keep email after email notification about my thread....   Thanks for all the posts, and gollum, again, you engine bay looks wicked...  And the dash, well she might never win beauty contests but! I'd much rather work on your set up than any others!!!!  And it's not ugly, it just has more function than form....

 

However!   I must call things to order for a few posts!   

 

Gollum: you say i have a bip 373 installed already???   If i'd built it, i'd know it inside and out but not only didn't i build it, I didn't even orser/buy it (previous owner).

I'll have to check it out, now i want to know where the bip 373 is at, and if it's set up properly (i'll see if the msextra manual calls for modifications or jumpers to make it work)...  

If we're (well, i'm) in business, i'll have to figure what the other wires conected to the ignitor module do, and if i can simply delete it all...  

 

Man, you've given me hope for a potential inexpensive fix...  Well if the ignitor system is broken (for all my luck, it might be fully functionnal and my problem is something else). 

 

Ill keep you guys posted.....

 

S.

 

 

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The high output ign driver is generally installed in Q16, top left corner of your pic, or this pic as I've modified points out:

 

Looking up that printed part # brings up exactly this issue. Bosch doesn't label them BIP373, but that's indeed likely the part. Also, all the metal backed transisters are likely high current drivers of some sort, be it injector or something else.

 

You can reference this v3.0 board assembly manual to validate parts to locaitons:

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm

 

Glad I could help, hopefully.

 

supernovams3.jpg

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3 hours ago, Gollum said:

4XpPVD-tdaWq1EHdoXrL3-Jbtqn6pG3NsINUVy8E

 

Fuse panel donated from a 83 turbo. Panel is from an aluminum computer case. Front switch panel is from a macbook pro case.Switches, loads, and grounds bundled together through common terminal blocks (grounds are tired together using a home electrical box style ground strip). Obviously a bit messy inside, which will get sorted to some degree, but my main goal was trace-ability and being able to work on it without breaking my back. Whole sections can be diagnosed easily as systems and/or removed as units. You can see I used aluminum flex conduit to do my runs to main sections of the car, which makes it relatively easy to pull/repull entire runs.

 

Feel free to call it ghetto, you can see I obviously care. :-D

 

Love it. 

 

This thread has just turned into a Dash beautiful context.

 

20180815_201724.thumb.jpg.6a511ec1555427514267fe35d856c6df.jpg

 

The display is a raspberry pi running  Race Capture Pro and Tunerstudio. Car also has internet so you can login over internet via VNC remotely and tune the car. Race Capture pro is used for speed/gps/track timera and so on. That is also displayed online using Podium Connect, so you can see oil pressure and stuff online in real time.

 

I wish I had good fabrication skills....

 

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So you're saying if I made an EFI analysis dashboard in splunk you'd use it?

 

That actually makes me feel even better about the last version of my dash:

 

V-mcENLHd5Y5jxnESZiVmMlnLAfgA5LOamBeTXE9

 

Literally scrap stainless I found. What a bitch to cut. And man were those corners sharp. I didn't put fancy hose on my dash like you did!

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5 minutes ago, Gollum said:

So you're saying if I made an EFI analysis dashboard in splunk you'd use it?

 

That actually makes me feel even better about the last version of my dash:

 

V-mcENLHd5Y5jxnESZiVmMlnLAfgA5LOamBeTXE9

 

Literally scrap stainless I found. What a bitch to cut. And man were those corners sharp. I didn't put fancy hose on my dash like you did!

 

 

Looks like minimalism is the trend here. Actually I think that is better, lost an engine due to the driver didn't see the gauges. Just to much information for the driver to process. If it had been a single light it would have worked.

 

Never heard of splunk, looks interesting.

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 11 months later...

Gollum, question for you on your build.  I have been trying to find the answer with COP LSx coils being ran off of MS2 V3.  I could run this in a wasted spark output still using the distributor to obtain the timing correct?

 

I would also need to wire in 3 BIP 373 also?

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Use the DIY Custom L28ET trigger disc. That will give your the necessary Crank and Home signal to run either Direct COP or WastSpark COP.

 

The LS coils have their own built in Ignitors. So you would NOT install any BIP 373' inside the ECU.  The BIP373's are 12 volt DUMB coil igniters by themselves. 

 

 You need to build Logic Level coil drivers circuits ( Low amperage 0v to 5v ) in the ECU. Read the MSextra Hardware Manual on how to do this. May as well build 6 Logic Levels drivers and use Direct fore COP instead of Waste Spark COP. There are a number of advantages including the Option to use separate Ignition Timing Trims per cylinder when you do it that way.

 

Edit: Read section 5.3.1.3 ( Page 77 ) in the MSExtra 3.42 hardware manual on how to build Logic Level Spark outputs. Use the FET method.  You may have to add an extra DB15 connector if you run out of pins on the DB37 ( Section 5.3.1.5  Page 80 ) 

 

There are 3D printed covers and Biller aluminium covers to replace the dizzy cap available. 

Edited by Chickenman
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