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Suchfun240z

Toyota 3sge beams swap in a 240z

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Hi I am doing research on a potential engine/ transmission swap into my datsun 240z.  I am new to this forum.  I have looked everywhere I know were to look. I want to know if anyone here knows of a Toyota 3sge beams swapped 240, 260 or 280.  I bought my car with a hack job Ford 302 swap. At this point I welded a costom engine cradle, and re wired it all. The hammered v8 runs, but it is still not what I want... the reaso I am looking into the 3sge is... you can buy one for 1300 with 6speed. Stock they have around 200hp.  I know a lot of ae86s have had successful swaps.  I have also found a number of BMW E30s with swapped in 3sge beams. It seems like it be a fun engine in my 240z, and I think it could be done for less then 4,000.  Maybe a sr20 is a better since it has be done many times.  What do you guys think.  

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I'd recommend you have a clear vision of what you want your car to be. I think alot of ppl dream up ideas of what would be "cool" but not about how they'll actually use the car and what they want it of it when it's complete.

 

I've never owned that motor but have been in a beams swapped te27. It has alot of grunt for what it is. And they can make good power NA. The owner said he was at 225hp to the wheels after a tweaking it. He also said it was a finicky motor and when getting it to run correctly he had a few teething issues. You can get that kinda power out of the L28, so going back to Nissan is an option. I think people vastly underestimate the L-series for power, sound, and reliability. If you want to be different, there are NA RB and 2j swaps. If it were me I'd go VQ35 or 37. Tons of aftermarket, cheap, great transmissions, great power and sound or wait for the Datsun Works DOHC head. I honestly think SRs sound like crap.

 

Sorry to rant, but just my 2 cents. Plenty of great options to wedge in there. Car looks clean. Good luck.

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Usually people use that engine because their car can only fit a 4 cylinder, and they want to keep it all Toyota. 

 

However, it's your car. Bringing up how good an L-series is doesn't make much sense because your car doesn't have one. If you don't like the 302, then other V8's probably won't make you happy either.

 

For the price point you're talking about you could get a 2jz-ge, or an SR20, or if you wanted to spend a bit more, you could yank the engine and trans out of a 350z. (according to car-part.com you're looking at about 1300 for the engine and 600-700 for the trans). Those engines all allow you to have pre-made engine and transmission mounts and pretty well documented swap process.

 

Personally I think the Beams engine makes way more sense in a first generation Celica, but it's a lightweight, powerful engine that has a 6 speed already attached to it at the end of the day. That would be a cool swap in an S30 for sure. 

 

Do what makes you happy.

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I would be a little more concerned about the torque. The AE86 is one of the few chassis that actually have a weight advantage over a lightened Z. So swapping it in that car especially with the short engine bay makes a heap of sense. It has what looks like a comparable torque value to an L-series, but it is going to be later than an L6, much more later than the V8 you have. Granted people have swapped over rotaries which have basically no torque, so it is all subjective.

 

There are some definite benefits though. You won't be stressing the rest of your driveline components. The engine and transmission package will be put the car on quite a diet as well. 

 

Your main argument for it seems to be money? Not sure that stands the test of time as much. If it is for fun, and you can see the fun in it down the road then that is a better reason. A good determinant would be to compare comparable drivetrains and see why the 3gse wins out for you. KA24de is even cheaper, a boosted miata drivetrain could be done similarly cheaply, F20 and F22 are a bit more pricey but makes even more power. Then you have the bigger swaps to consider, the 2jz, RB, LS, etc. If the 3gse wins out with a reason good enough for you to do it, then I think you kind of have your answer.

 

As an aside, your rear flare looks to be a bit on the low side? That is if they are ZG flares, the ends look like they are sharper than normal though.

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Seattlejester, thank you for your response, and for getting me to really think what I want. I would like to get in the hi 20s mpg, but still have enough power to be fun.  I have a motorcycle for sale that should sell for around 5k, so I will have around 5k for a engine swap. I want a car that handles really well. I have dreams of doing track days and I hope to get into autocross.  Ill be researching the Sr20det swap, f20 could be interesting.  I was thinking the 3sge could be a good option, but since it has not been done... it would take lots of time. I’d really like to go on a ride in a datsun with a Sr20det.  I’ll be doing all the work myself, so maybe I’ll only be a few thousand over 😉

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If track/autocross is your goal I feel suspension may be better suited than going deep into an engine swap. On stock suspension these cars do move around quite a bit, that is if their bushings are intact. 

 

Honestly if you have the ability, putting an engine in a car takes a day or two at most assuming you have worked out things like the oil pan. Now if you have only an hour to spend every month then that day or two process can take over a year. Cooling, wiring, and fuel can be what can catch you off guard, but similarly won't take too long either really if you plan ahead. 

 

Can't help you with the SR20det swapped S30. I only know of a couple L28ET swapped cars and my JZ swapped cars locally. I know there are at least 2 guys with RB swaps rolling around, but I'm not sure of any in the immediate area with SR swaps.

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Also of note in your previous goals, I believe an LS with a T56 will do 30mpg. The gearing makes it a double overdrive if I recall correctly, barely above idle at freeway speeds.

 

Like wheel alignment or flare alignment? There isn't any adjustment in the rear for wheel alignment from factory, so if the alignment is out of wack and it is not due to a bent wheel or stub axle (verified via checking flatness during rotation), then most likely someone bent the control arms or the control arms are loose/missing parts of the bushing. If nothing seems bent and it it is still out of alignment you can either take the chassis to get aligned on a rack, or you can buy some adjustable rear control arms to compensate if it is minor.

 

With a turbo 2j the Z is more than fast enough. Nothing is too hard to work on or order replacement parts which is why I went this route. Car handles pretty nicely, but it is on coilovers and adjustable tubular control arms with heim joints and poly bushings all around.

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Hey Suchfun240z I have an sr20det swapped 240z. I live in Vancouver BC. If your ever up this way I could show you my z. I haven't had a chance to take my z to Ridge motorsports yet. Maybe some time this summer i'll be down your way.

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Thanks guys for your feed back.  A little update... I took my car to a frame shop to try to figure out why I have so much toe in on my drivers side rear.  I have new wheels, I changed the stock LLC , and put new bushings in, and it was still toe in. I should hear from the frame shop next week. Once I figure out my alignment problem I will research more on a engine swap. 

 

I would be very interested in checking out both of your cars.  Seattlejester I will be in Seattle for about a month for work, so if your have time I’d love to meet up and checkout your car.  

 

 

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32 minutes ago, Suchfun240z said:

 A little update... I took my car to a frame shop to try to figure out why I have so much toe in on my drivers side rear.

 

JMortensen has written about how the early 240Z's had incorrectly drilled strut castings.  The spindle pins are off the design axis. 

 

Here's a start - 

 

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Thank you, I’ll look into that... I’m really interested to see if the frame shop finds anything.  I believe the alignment shop printout says my toe in on drivers side is .65 toe in... (the printout is in my car) that is the 2nd time to the alignment shop after changing the LCA and bushings.  I’m saving for the t3 adjustable lca, but before I throw money at it I want to see what the frame shop finds. 

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That is really interesting, shouldn't be necessarily surprising, but interesting. I wonder how many people just thought the cars ate tires when it was an incorrectly drilled strut casing.

 

I just mentioned this in another post, but maybe take a look at AE (apex engineering) arms, they would have less bind in a wider movement range.

 

Sure, as long as it isn't terrible out.

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