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HOLLAATYABOYY1

280z still not starting!!!!

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76 280z.  Went through all the steps in the FI BIBLE. 

 

everything checks out until I get to here . 791CDD9A-8770-4E38-B59B-C2808EE5B9FB.thumb.png.9a2d4c50b8283a4ce79e8aa123dee961.png

 

Which is weird. I checked wiring and then also manually checked he air regulator and it’s firing the fuel pump and the injectors as it should.  I moved on with my steps and everything. Checked out leading me to a bad ecu.    Several days ago I the car was trying to start and backfiring.   Now I have nothing but a cranking engine.  

 

I have fuel and spark.  I  tested the power relays for a click and they do that as well (one of them).  

 

please help 

 

 

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Should have kept your other thread going.  Now everyone has to ask the same questions over again.  You got it to run for a short while using starting fluid before.  Why didn't you try starting fluid again?

 

Fuel, spark, and timing are what you need.  And air.

 

No offense, but you don't really seem to be thinking about how engines work.  You have fuel and spark.  And it started once.  Why are you testing "power relays" and worried about the air regulator?  You have fuel and spark.  

 

Have you read the Engine Fuel chapter?  Nissan wrote a two-three page tutorial at the beginning on how their system works and what happens during starting.  It's a primer on EFI.

 

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If spark and timing are right, you should be able to get a start with starting fluid and keep it running for a few seconds with a few extra squirts.

 

I think that you mentioned a backfire in the other thread.  Are all of the hoses to the intake system intact?  Is the oil filler cap on?  Is the PCV hose intact?  The EFI system does not like to see any air that has not passed through the AFM.  It's very important that the intake system and the crankcase are completely sealed.

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18 minutes ago, ZHoob2004 said:

I'm not sure what the resistor does, but based on the pictures it looks like the bands are red-brown-orange-gold, which would equate to a 21kOhm with 5% tolerance. A standard 1/4W axial resistor will probably work just fine there.

 

 

Thanks a lot bud I really would love to know what it is for.  It doesn’t look good and the ecu is at my buddies house so I can’t ohm them out right now  and I can’t find anything online about the ecu 

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Here's a simple test that you can do to test the injector opening circuitry of the ECU, and the wring harness.  It's been described by a few people over the years and you can figure it out from the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter.

 

Take a jumper wire and attach one end to the negative terminal of the coil.  Let the other end hang free.  Turn the key on, so that the coil has power and the EFI relay is energized, and tap the loose end of the jumper wire to a good ground.  This will cause the coil to spark.  Every third tap should cause all six injectors to open.  If you get the injectors opening then you'll know that, at least, the required circuit is intact.  It won't tell you how long the injectors stay open but it's a simple confirmation.  If you get coil spark but no injectors opening then you have a problem, that you can focus on.

 

You still seem to be looking at things that are easy to reach instead of the things that might matter.  But, you'll know a lot more when you're done, either way.  Good luck, have fun.

 

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, NewZed said:

Here's a simple test that you can do to test the injector opening circuitry of the ECU, and the wring harness.  It's been described by a few people over the years and you can figure it out from the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter.

 

Take a jumper wire and attach one end to the negative terminal of the coil.  Let the other end hang free.  Turn the key on, so that the coil has power and the EFI relay is energized, and tap the loose end of the jumper wire to a good ground.  This will cause the coil to spark.  Every third tap should cause all six injectors to open.  If you get the injectors opening then you'll know that, at least, the required circuit is intact.  It won't tell you how long the injectors stay open but it's a simple confirmation.  If you get coil spark but no injectors opening then you have a problem, that you can focus on.

 

You still seem to be looking at things that are easy to reach instead of the things that might matter.  But, you'll know a lot more when you're done, either way.  Good luck, have fun.

 

Confirmed that test  last night with the neg coil and the ground test.   The injectors indeed where firing.  I just wasn’t sure if that confirmed that they were getting the pulse while actually trying to start under normal conditions 

 

Also rang out all 6 injectors terminals on ecu connector and they are were getting voltage.   I know I have fuel, I know I have spark and I know I have air  and she doesn’t even sputter or try to start.   

 

 

 

Quote

 

 

Edited by HOLLAATYABOYY1

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From your first thread:
 

On 3/8/2018 at 7:58 PM, HOLLAATYABOYY1 said:

I know the filter in the back near the gas tank needed to be changed along with a leaking fuel line.

 

Get rid of the filter by the pump. It's not stock, and causes more problems than it prevents. Autozone has a fuel pressure test kit you can borrow (it's a pretty large deposit) and you can put it inline before the fuel rail and make sure you're getting fuel to your injectors. Back to the basics: fuel, air, spark.

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Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, ZHoob2004 said:

From your first thread:
 

 

Get rid of the filter by the pump. It's not stock, and causes more problems than it prevents. Autozone has a fuel pressure test kit you can borrow (it's a pretty large deposit) and you can put it inline before the fuel rail and make sure you're getting fuel to your injectors. Back to the basics: fuel, air, spark.

Just replaced that back filter with a brand new duralast one.    I also took the fuel line off the hose after the fuel filter up top and I was getting fuel pouring out but didn’t verify pressure.   I would have at least a sputter or something  even if fuel pressure was low right ?!

 

 

Edited by HOLLAATYABOYY1

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Posted (edited)

Update.   

 

Still not starting.   I wanted to make sure Iwas back at square one again so I sprayed starting fluid in it and as long as I’m cranking the starter and pedaling the gas I’m getting popping likenit wants to start and as soon as I let off it dies.  The fuel pressure gauge I bought doesn’t work for this application so I can take check the pressure but I knownim getting fuel to the rails 

 

the attached video is at the tail end when im sure the starting fluid was all but finished.   It doesn’t start at all.  Just pops.  

 

I think it became flooded after this because it doesnt even pop at all like it   wants to start.   I was told the cold start injector would  flood the engine/plugs 

 

7759C1B5-1E17-44DC-AD73-BE1E5E934190.MOV

Edited by HOLLAATYABOYY1

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You've had some good advice here from some patient people who you should thank, about time you followed it and stop assuming eg you said that the engine had fuel so someone reading that would assume that the fuel was at the correct pressure. But apparently you had not checked that so in effect you did not know if the engine had fuel or not. Fault finding requires a methodical step by step approach. Try it.

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