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15 minutes ago, northwoodz said:

Did you take the small bolt out of the middle? I believe it is there to keep the pin located. That mount certainly is interesting. 

 

 

Yessir the pin is out. And I have been putting penetrating oil on it for about 3 days or so. And yeah the mount kinda blew my mind as to why haha.

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5 minutes ago, trackzpeed said:

Crazy mount!  Try heat to the spindle pin housing and a bigger hammer 😂.... or use a press. 

Track I tried to use my press but I can't get it level so it isn't really working. I only have a small 12ton manual press. Would it be worth buying the tool for 60 bucks?

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Add some heat. Heat the spindle pin until it's red hot, then let it cool down. Should tap right out after that.

 

The diff mount is interesting. It looks like the mount was tearing/tore through completely so they wrapped it in cable (and used longer bolts?) to solid mount the nose of the diff. You might want to switch to a RT style top mount since your oem mount is probably gone.

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A lug nut is the same thread as the spindle pin.  You can use it to spin the pin to break up the rust and get the penetrant moving around inside and to beat on with a big hammer.  I found also when removing mine that the pin actually was moving inside the strut casting but it was stuck in the sleeve of the rubber bushing.  So each hammer blow would move it, then the rubber bushing would pull it back inside.  It was deceiving.

 

As for heat, I've found that heating up the casting will cause it to expand making the pin easier to move.  Don't heat the pin, heat the casting.  

 

If you're not trying to save the pins, a sawzall will do the job.

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Posted (edited)

People cut the bushings also then use a drift or chisel to peel them out.

 

I've found that force and heat will almost always do it.  I've used it on the front control arm bushings, and various broken exhaust studs.  The parts will not move if there's no heat.  I've had the front control arm bushings set up in a vise, with various tube pieces or sockets and fixtures, not moving at all under high force, and watched them move as the heat was applied.  I've had exhaust studs that would not budge unless heat was applied, and would stop turning as the manifold cooled down.  Many people just can't comprehend the power of heat.  They'll beat and hack and drill and pry before they'll get out the torch or heat gun.  The expansion of the metals reduces the constrictive force.  Don't know if that's the proper term but it's close.

 

Did you spin the spindle pin while it had an end?  If not you missed an opportunity.

 

Forgot to say, I'd use the 12 ton press and some fixturing.  The tool will probably break on your problem.  It only works on the not-so-bad spindle pins.  Many people break the tool.

Edited by NewZed

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3 minutes ago, trackzpeed said:

new lower control arms will solve the problem too...... I gave my stock one's away otherwise I would have sent them to you.. Jim

I was going to go with fully adjustable ones. But I did pros and cons and it's just not worth 500 extra on top of this build for a Cruze around car.

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I want with T3.  Don’t think  they were that much but i don’t remember. HUGE difference in the way the car drives and handles. The cost of new spindle pins, bushings, and labor time made the swap to the T3 easy.  I track my car a lot so the improved handling and solid feel was more than worth it for me.  Just my.02. 

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1 hour ago, juxsa said:

With the 5.3 do you need to use a ls1 intake manifold? Are you going to build your own mounts or getting a kit? 

I will be using ls1 accessories for my swap. And I believe I'm going to go with the cxracing full kit. But I'm extremely far off from that point in this build.

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Looking for advice before I buy new wheel studs. I am replacing all 16 of my studs during the resto. Should I go with the OEM length or should I purchase the extended ones. Need a answer pretty soon as I am almost done with the front suspension. I will be postings a bunch more pictures in the next couple of days. I ended up taking my rear stuff to a local machine shop and they got the spindle pins and all the bushings out for 40 bucks so I am happy.

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So got some more stuff done today. Gonna start sanding the hood tomorrow I decided I'm going to keep the cowl hood. So time to fix the fiberglass areas. I was in harbor freight today and the sandblasting cabinet I wanted had the wrong sticker on it. So instead of 179 i got it for 119 plus 20% off that. Score!!

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Made it over to the dessert safe guys, got my welder and plasma cutter in right before i left. cant wait to get home to use them. will be ordering a pretty big order in the next few days containing my rebuilding stuff for my r200, and the stuff to redo my rear hubs and spindles. hope all is going good for you guys.

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4 minutes ago, juxsa said:

did you have to swap the 5.3 intake manifold and use an ls1 intake manifold? 

You do unless u are running a hood cowl of some form the truck intake is a bit taller. However I am not even close to starting the engine side of the building and the yet

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Got another decent size order in. Plus looking for some advice. I'm going with a 16x8 0 offset wheel. What is the best tire combo to run I'd like to go beefier in the rear. So floor pans and frame rails are at the house to start on when I get home. Plus those wheels will be ordered next month. Then a mandatory sandstorm pic.

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