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Using a degree wheel to degree in your L series cams

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Pete,

I understand what your saying. This is the whole reason I didn't just throw the cam in and say-well the power is okay, but I better get a bigger one. This is the whole reason I didn't just throw the nearly new Mikunis 40's on my car yet-even though I'v owned them for years,why-because I haven't finished doing the tune on there with my SU's. I am trying to do this the right way and LEARN more than anything.

There will be dyno trips involved to. I did my first on the way to ZCON 2010 and found the engine made good power, but was out of tune-and the cam was just thrown in, but now i want to properly dial it in as well as other things and DYNO once again with the SU's----THEN and only THEN the Mikunis go on and then DYNO time.

I want to know for sure if I am making progress and learning too, so there will be many trips to the dyno.

I appreciate the shared knowledge of all you guys.

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There was no disrespect intended. I guess I am tired of hearing about if you do this or that, you will get this, without any actual measurements to prove it. Again, no disrespect. People are quick to say "that's easy", or "it should work", when in fact to do it right is not easy. That was the reason for the "magic". I completely believe in measuring performance, making changes, and measuring again. I've probably dynoed my own, and other's cars more than most on this forum (and posted results too!). My last 13:1 race motor build was on the dyno three times (one engine, twice chassis). I've learned a whole lot building that motor. I'm just trying to share the knowledge.

 

Here is the build thread if you are interested.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96584-road-race-enduro-l28-engine-build/

 

Sure I understand that, but I never made such a contention. You claimed I made assumptions that I never made. I never said anything was easy, nor anything about making more power. If you are referring to the valve interference statement, I was saying that he should check but I doubt that it would be a problem. Reread the statements I made, maybe you'll see them in a different way?

 

I am all for dyno testing and scientific method, and can appreciate your efforts in sharing your knowledge with the community. What I do know and did inform Steve of, is that advancing the cam will shift his powerband down. Therefore, it would be wise to set the cam on the #2 hole (which would put it at zero advance) and then have +/- 4 degrees of adjustment (instead of -4/-8 degrees if set on #1 hole) if/when he decides to test. This has been exactly my point the entire time, I just felt like you were protesting assertions that nobody ever made.

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Okay, looking for some guidance here. I am awaiting and hoping Schneider will return my call-but meanwhile here is a pic of my cam card. I have made some assumptions since I haven't confirmed with Schneider yet, but I assume the degreeing numbers on the right are made with zero vlave-lash and at .050. Haven't recieved my Nismo adjustable sprocket yet, so this is using stock sprocket.

 

This is what I cane up with using #1 hole:

 

Intake opens @ 1 degree BTDC

Intake closes @ 43 degrees ABDC

 

Exhaust opens @36 BBDC

Exhaust closes @4 ATDC

 

 

 

Using # 2 hole on sprocket:

 

Intake opens @5 degrees BTDC

Intake closes @ 40 degrees ABDC

 

Exhaust opens @40 BBDC

Exhaust closes @1 BTDC

 

My concern is that trying to get close to the card for Intake closing is just going to take me further away from the other closing and opening points.See next post for attachment

post-1083-062118900 1320417041_thumb.jpg

Edited by madkaw

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Okay, looking for some guidance here. I am awaiting and hoping Schneider will return my call-but meanwhile here is a pic of my cam card. I have made some assumptions since I haven't confirmed with Schneider yet, but I assume the degreeing numbers on the right are made with zero vlave-lash and at .050. Haven't recieved my Nismo adjustable sprocket yet, so this is using stock sprocket.

 

This is what I cane up with using #1 hole:

 

Intake opens @ 1 degree BTDC

Intake closes @ 43 degrees ABDC

 

Exhaust opens @36 BBDC

Exhaust closes @4 ATDC

 

 

 

Using # 2 hole on sprocket:

 

Intake opens @5 degrees BTDC

Intake closes @ 40 degrees ABDC

 

Exhaust opens @40 BBDC

Exhaust closes @1 BTDC

 

My concern is that trying to get close to the card for Intake closing is just going to take me further away from the other closing and opening points.

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Sure I understand that, but I never made such a contention. You claimed I made assumptions that I never made. I never said anything was easy, nor anything about making more power. If you are referring to the valve interference statement, I was saying that he should check but I doubt that it would be a problem. Reread the statements I made, maybe you'll see them in a different way?

 

I am all for dyno testing and scientific method, and can appreciate your efforts in sharing your knowledge with the community. What I do know and did inform Steve of, is that advancing the cam will shift his powerband down. Therefore, it would be wise to set the cam on the #2 hole (which would put it at zero advance) and then have +/- 4 degrees of adjustment (instead of -4/-8 degrees if set on #1 hole) if/when he decides to test. This has been exactly my point the entire time, I just felt like you were protesting assertions that nobody ever made.

 

Let's both stop polluting what was a great thread. Thanks.

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Okay, looking for some guidance here. I am awaiting and hoping Schneider will return my call-but meanwhile here is a pic of my cam card. I have made some assumptions since I haven't confirmed with Schneider yet, but I assume the degreeing numbers on the right are made with zero vlave-lash and at .050. Haven't recieved my Nismo adjustable sprocket yet, so this is using stock sprocket.

 

This is what I cane up with using #1 hole:

 

Intake opens @ 1 degree BTDC

Intake closes @ 43 degrees ABDC

 

Exhaust opens @36 BBDC

Exhaust closes @4 ATDC

 

Using # 2 hole on sprocket:

 

Intake opens @5 degrees BTDC

Intake closes @ 40 degrees ABDC

 

Exhaust opens @40 BBDC

Exhaust closes @1 BTDC

 

My concern is that trying to get close to the card for Intake closing is just going to take me further away from the other closing and opening points.

 

No, I think the all of the measurements on the cam card are when the lash is set according to cam card. This will have an effect on cam timing.

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Pete,

your exactly right on both posts!

 

Just got off the phone with Jerry at Schneider and yes valve lash needs to be set since I am taking measurements off of the retainer. Some new numbers with the sprocket in #2 hole;

 

Intake closes 33.5 ABDC

Intake opens 3 BTDC

 

Exhaust opens 37 BBDC

Exhaust closes 6 BTDC

 

Jerry worked some numbers and felt the intake opening needed to fall inbetween 2-4 degrees opening. I acheived this with the sprocket in # 2 hole. With this setting I am no more than 2 degrees off on any specs.

My arm and back are wore out!

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Pete,

your exactly right on both posts!

 

Just got off the phone with Jerry at Schneider and yes valve lash needs to be set since I am taking measurements off of the retainer. Some new numbers with the sprocket in #2 hole;

 

Intake closes 33.5 ABDC

Intake opens 3 BTDC

 

Exhaust opens 37 BBDC

Exhaust closes 6 BTDC

 

Jerry worked some numbers and felt the intake opening needed to fall in between 2-4 degrees opening. I acheived this with the sprocket in # 2 hole. With this setting I am no more than 2 degrees off on any specs.

My arm and back are wore out!

 

 

Awesome :2thumbs: Great job!

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Okay guys-need some more help. My Nismo cam sprocket arrived and I threw it on there since it was easy at this time. I set it up on #2 since that was what the stock was set-up on. The timing came in slightly retarded from where I was. Dialing in #3 puts me too far advance. Not sure where to go from here. I see the letters on there A-D. If I want to advance beyond #2 do I use the letter that falls between the numbers?

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Okay guys-need some more help. My Nismo cam sprocket arrived and I threw it on there since it was easy at this time. I set it up on #2 since that was what the stock was set-up on. The timing came in slightly retarded from where I was. Dialing in #3 puts me too far advance. Not sure where to go from here. I see the letters on there A-D. If I want to advance beyond #2 do I use the letter that falls between the numbers?

 

You have to use the chart that came with the sprocket. Hole 2 is 3 degrees advanced. See attached.

post-274-087093800 1321402157_thumb.jpg

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Hi all,

 

In post #23 on Page2, Ian says he got a Rebello cam stamped with "63DI" on the back

In post #24, Paul says he called Rebello and was told to set the cam between 0.010" & 0.020" advanced

 

 

I have the same "63DI" cam from Rebello.

FYI I've got a 2949cc L28 in my 240Z (L28crank, L24rods, 89mm flat top pistons, 0.6mm nismo headgasket, + big valves & head work by DR)

 

DR told me to set my cam up with between 0.035" and 0.045" total at valve overlap

Not knowing any better I was going to shoot for dead in the middle of those two: 0.040"

 

 

Is Paul explaining the same thing I'm asking about to Ian, but in a different way by measuring a different number?
Or, in other words, am I asking a dumb question?

 

 

Thanks in advance,

 

-e

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