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malibud

BC coilover ??

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And you can't adjust it anyway with the stock towers the adjustment knob runs into the side of the center hole. 

 

There are some who worked out ways to slot the tops to allow access to the bolts, but chances are if you go low you are going to have to max these guys out to positive to stop from getting high negative camber.

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I am a bit confused. What do most people do ? Do they go close to positive caberside  and then install? Or cut the towers ? If I cut the towers do I have to reinforce? Are you saying that the adjustment knob will not be acessable through the hole?

thanks !

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Two things being discussed.

 

1. The adjustment knob is inline and very close to the shock hole. That means if you adjust it more than center your adjustment knob will run into the side of the hole.

Sorry I don't have any pictures, but...

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See the knob that is centered.

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If you adjust it it moves the center knob and that runs into the little hole we have for the shock bolt access.

 

To answer your question, no you cannot access it through the top in stock form. Most likely you won't be able to install it in stock form either as it comes with max negative camber assuming you are going lower, if you are at stock height with a straight chassis you may be fine just installing it as is.

 

2. The 4 allen bolts to adjust the camber. You can widen the shock hole to be able to reach the allen heads.

image1.JPG

Is it strong enough? Not sure, that is not leaving a lot of material, but it isn't a single shear situation in that you have 3 bolts so even if one was trying to pull towards the weak side the other two are pulling towards a stronger side, so single shear in 3 locations I guess? I'm not sure if I'm using that term correctly.

 

It is nice to be able to access, but after realizing how negative the camber was at my desired ride height I just set mine all to full positive. Most like it won't be you who is adjusting camber, the shop I went to charges the same regardless of how difficult or easy it is, so I didn't see a reason to do them any favors and allow top access by shaving all that material. If needed you can drop it and adjust the camber and raise it back up in a few minutes.

 

Kind of your choice really. I've seen others just make two slots where the allen bolts are, I've seen others do like above where the just open it way up, I've seen others open it up a little bit and use the ball headed allen wrenches to barely reach them. I bought these to do fairly minimum modification so I chose that route cutting out just enough to make room for the adjustment knob.

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Thanks Seattle! Your post was what I needed. It helped out a lot. Above and beyond with pictures but I now understand. I will install them without cutting start at full positive and take it to be aligned. 

DC

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Man, cutting those towers was nerve racking, especially in the rear! I don't like getting metal dust all over the inside of the car. I installed coilovers with the camber adjustment at the strut tower and adjustable control arms at the same time. It made alignment pretty easy for the shop.

 

Everyone does their camber plates differently. I have Stance coilovers. I liked them because it is a no-weld solution. TBH I was very concerned about strength as well because you have to cut away a LOT of material, but the new plates that you bolt/weld onto there add that rigidity back in. I haven't had any problems in the 30 miles I've driven it... haha.

 

This car is light, and most of us (if not all of us) are not jumping their Z in the desert, so there isn't as much vertical force as you think at each corner.

 

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