Jump to content
HybridZ
BeastioBoi

rb25/26 rear sump custom oil pans??

Recommended Posts

I’m in the process of making my own. I cut the stock steel RWD pan all the way around the perimeter just below the mounting flange.  I mocked the pan up on the bench and found with just a few minor changes, massaging and a fair amount of TIG work I am going to be able to turn the forward sump pan into a rear sump pan.  The oil pick up will need to be clocked and rewelded to adjust for the rear sump...I haven’t mocked that up yet.  I remounted the mounting flange to the block then mocked up the sump in the rear position (currently held in place with foil tape in preparation for tach welding) I’ll get some other photos up as the process progresses.

 

7464B73E-AC01-49C5-B718-F33868881A60.thumb.jpeg.dbba4a13344491bcd0bfe3c9481ee602.jpegD3525C6D-ED05-424A-B948-9D4E968403C3.thumb.jpeg.69847a69f4b3a316f701c9da0b8a6ba5.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jethoncho, great looking job! I'll be doing that soon enough. But be aware of the angle of the pan, it is supposed to be at a slight angle drooping toward the driver's side. If you don't correct for that it will be on the passenger side and you'd have to add an extension to your oil pickup tube to reach that far end from what I understand. Pat1 actually covered that i a thread I read recently.

 

Beastioboi, as far as pat1, have you emailed him? He doesn;t get on the forum much anymore but his email is in his pan thread on one of the pages and he says to try that nowadays.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jethoncho said:

Thanks Jboobsthethug! I appreciate the heads up.  I was aware the engine mounted on a slight tilt but I didn’t account for this in the pan modification. I’ll have to do a little more research before I start welding.  

no problem! Glad to help someone not blow up their engine ha.

 

also, pat's email is[email protected]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! And yeah i was thinking the cutting and welding approach myself at one point but the 26 pan is cast alum. Glad to see others still using the forums! Thanks for the email Jboogs. Ill try to start documenting my work so far. So it could possibly be some use to yall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/19/2018 at 11:27 PM, BeastioBoi said:

Thanks! And yeah i was thinking the cutting and welding approach myself at one point but the 26 pan is cast alum. Glad to see others still using the forums! Thanks for the email Jboogs. Ill try to start documenting my work so far. So it could possibly be some use to yall.

 

oh yeah I love the forums! and good idea, the more documentation online the better!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

 

I haven’t given the pickup tube any attention yet.  I would really like to figure out what the tube is constructed from so I could just reform an entirely new tube instead of cutting and welding jboogsthethug gave me some useful information regarding proper angle of the pan after sump reversal...I mocked it up and it appears I will trim one inch off the driver’s side (left) of the pan while adding 1.75” to the passenger side of the pan.  This will account for the 13 degree angle the engine tilts toward the drivers side of the car resulting in the sump having a nearly level bottom (about 1-2 degree tilt toward drain plug location).  I started welding on it on the past Friday...I added the 1.75” metal filler strip to the pan, I will likely continue by fitting and welding to flange tomorrow.  I’ll get some photos up once it’s cobbled together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I ended up going with the cx racing one, only a couple minor issues ill have to resolve to fix their pan so far... One the drain plug isnt the correct size for the threads they tapped it as, the second thing is the "hole-y" section looks like it was drilled rapidly and not fully cleaned of all its burrs, the last thing would be that the oil pan pickup is a little too steep of an angle so i have to bend it a little to have it fit in the stock rb26 oil pickup location. Was it worth the 471$? Sure. It takes a lot of the time out of making a pan, and isnt too bad for the minor work i have to do to fix it. All the welds look good, only thing i would have to maybe do is the weld might overlap the flat section where the bolts go, so I might have to use a dremel and grind the weld flat in the locations where it is near where the bolt heads would mount the pan up. Not too shabby.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, BeastioBoi said:

So I ended up going with the cx racing one, only a couple minor issues ill have to resolve to fix their pan so far... One the drain plug isnt the correct size for the threads they tapped it as, the second thing is the "hole-y" section looks like it was drilled rapidly and not fully cleaned of all its burrs, the last thing would be that the oil pan pickup is a little too steep of an angle so i have to bend it a little to have it fit in the stock rb26 oil pickup location. Was it worth the 471$? Sure. It takes a lot of the time out of making a pan, and isnt too bad for the minor work i have to do to fix it. All the welds look good, only thing i would have to maybe do is the weld might overlap the flat section where the bolts go, so I might have to use a dremel and grind the weld flat in the locations where it is near where the bolt heads would mount the pan up. Not too shabby.

 

thanks for the in depth review of the pan, it's always good to hear people's opinions on a product, especially when it comes to these dang oil pans!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, so I have mode some progress, thanks to Jboogs I was ready to start welding on a pan that at minimum wouldn't have worked and at worst might have starved my engine and blew it up.  I originally cut the flange off and started to get ready to weld it back on to reverse the sump, I have since added a 1 3/4" filler to the right side of the pan and tacked the sump in place.  This gives the bottom of the sump a 1 or 2 degree tilt toward the drain plug side of the sump when installed on the engine (assuming a 13 degree tilt of the engine toward the driver's (left) side.  

 

Try not to be too critical of my TIG skills, its a work in progress as are my welding abilities.

 

IMG_2033.JPG

IMG_5956.JPG

IMG_7388.JPG

IMG_2417.JPG

IMG_2427.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Jethoncho said:

Okay, so I have mode some progress, thanks to Jboogs I was ready to start welding on a pan that at minimum wouldn't have worked and at worst might have starved my engine and blew it up.  I originally cut the flange off and started to get ready to weld it back on to reverse the sump, I have since added a 1 3/4" filler to the right side of the pan and tacked the sump in place.  This gives the bottom of the sump a 1 or 2 degree tilt toward the drain plug side of the sump when installed on the engine (assuming a 13 degree tilt of the engine toward the driver's (left) side.  

 

Try not to be too critical of my TIG skills, its a work in progress as are my welding abilities.

 

IMG_2033.JPG

IMG_5956.JPG

IMG_7388.JPG

IMG_2417.JPG

IMG_2427.JPG

man this looks great to me! Would you mind taking a few pics of the inside to show what you did with the baffles or whatever they're called?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jethoncho said:

Thank jboogs, I’ll get some interior photos as soon as I get it welded up and removed from the base plate I have it bolted to.  I also started a thread for the restomod of my ‘78 280Z, here’s a link if anyone is interested.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/discover/content-started/

no problem, looking forward to it. also, that link seemed to be incorrect so I think this is the one you meant to post?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/12/2018 at 1:06 PM, Jethoncho said:

Good question ZT-R, I haven’t mocked it up in the chassis yet.  To be continued...

Hey man have you started on the interior flanges/baffles/whatever yet? I think I'm going to try and get started this week. I've been out for a few weeks after a dirt bike wreck so now I can finally start doing more physical stuff and I think I'm going to start here!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

 

I got a little sidetracked - started a little body restoration on the car (fitted a new left rear quarter).  I did make a template for a new baffle/windage tray.  I’m away till Friday  in Europe for work, I’ll get the new tray made up and installed when I return.  

 

6AF612E3-93C3-4952-89FC-547CDE6A5247.thumb.jpeg.3d3771b17e1ad76786d32b0b03019d83.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Jethoncho said:

Hello,

 

I got a little sidetracked - started a little body restoration on the car (fitted a new left rear quarter).  I did make a template for a new baffle/windage tray.  I’m away till Friday  in Europe for work, I’ll get the new tray made up and installed when I return.  

 

 

1

Dang that's coming along nicely though! That looks like some quality repair work right there! Keep me updated on the oil pan for sure though, I am interested to see that in action.

Edited by Jboogsthethug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great info, I am likely going to recreate the windage tray in the original style just reversed to account for the crank rotation and new location of modified oil pickup.  I don’t plan on racing so I think I can get away without a specially designed hi capacity oil pan. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×