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Jethoncho

1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

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6 hours ago, winstonusmc said:

 

 I did this very thing. The deal to get the strut tube to clear the CV boot is to kick the bottom slightly to the rear. The strut isnt perpendicular to the ground anyway and leans slightly towards the front of the car at the top, so kicking it out at the bottom isnt a big deal. If you see in my picture, the strut is threaded way down. The way it is now, the car can be lowered way further than the stock BC setup. I might redo it in the future and slide the tube higher so I can weld it differently. You have to be careful not to put too much heat into the strut tube as to not warp the threads. Mine are still pretty tight due to the warping. I am not a pro welder, so a pro welder might do a better job at minimizing the warping. I dont have any clearance problems, but that may be due to making my own tabs to place the strut in a better position. I oversized the upper holes to give me some camber adjustment and the camber plates are now at center at ride height with 0 camber. 

 

On another note, I think if I used a TIG welder, the results would be better.

 

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Your rear setup looks great!  I appreciate your input regarding the requirements to run T3 style tabs on the lower BC Coilover Mount.  This is helpful...I’ll keep this thread updated as I make progress.

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On 12/4/2018 at 4:58 PM, Kevlars30z said:

No problem man. I’ll be keeping an eye on your updates. Since I would love to run their rear setup with my BC Coils. I’m not looking to be spending 2k plus on coils, since I have mine already. 

I’ll be updating this thread as I progress.  The BC Coilovers are new but they shipped me a set of fronts that are currently mocked up on the vehicle.  BC already sent me some replacement parts to swap out to correct this issue.  Once I get these swapped out and install the axles I’ll get some more photos up.  I am traveling for work so it will be a couple days.

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13 hours ago, winstonusmc said:

 

 I did this very thing. The deal to get the strut tube to clear the CV boot is to kick the bottom slightly to the rear. The strut isnt perpendicular to the ground anyway and leans slightly towards the front of the car at the top, so kicking it out at the bottom isnt a big deal. If you see in my picture, the strut is threaded way down. The way it is now, the car can be lowered way further than the stock BC setup. I might redo it in the future and slide the tube higher so I can weld it differently. You have to be careful not to put too much heat into the strut tube as to not warp the threads. Mine are still pretty tight due to the warping. I am not a pro welder, so a pro welder might do a better job at minimizing the warping. I dont have any clearance problems, but that may be due to making my own tabs to place the strut in a better position. I oversized the upper holes to give me some camber adjustment and the camber plates are now at center at ride height with 0 camber. 

 

On another note, I think if I used a TIG welder, the results would be better.

 

20170904_192242.thumb.jpg.9905ee3e3123a3d74f2e50c414eba61e.jpg20170828_165935.thumb.jpg.6b296a1ba3fac065586a6dd5faa9b4cc.jpg20170829_123553.thumb.jpg.e0c24e67d7278004d1c659796efb1c52.jpg

20181027_222022.thumb.jpg.2843addbfd612e6dc57ef9acfd4dbad0.jpg

Seeing someone do this makes me so happy!😁 Definelty going to proceed and do this. I probably won't be doing this till later next year as I'm currently working on my motor set up....But don't mind if I hit you up down the road for any questions on this. 

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Thanks to those that reached out to me regarding the CV boots clearance on the lower BC coilover mount with T3 mounting tabs.   I returned from four days on the road and decided to tackle this dilemma...I previously mocked up the rear suspension and figured out BC sent me a set of front coilovers instead of rears.  I contacted BC while I was on the road and they were kind enough to send me a set of rear shocks and springs so I disassembled the rear and built it back up with the new parts while also incorporating T3 camber plates. To use the T3 camber plates T3 sent me bushings meant to integrate their camber plates with the BC coilovers...I decided I wanted to use the BC bushings instead so I took the BC nut and pillow bushing and turned (lathe) the bushing portion down to 15.76mm to fit inside the T3 bearing in their camber plate.

 

Next after building up the rear coilovers with the correct parts I mocked in an axle and I have good clearance on the CV boot.  I attribute this to the fact my lower mounts are likely front mounts and my T3 tabs extend beyond the lower end of the lower mount by a little over an inch or so.  My lower mounts have a reduction in diameter about 4 inches from the lower edge so I attached the T3 mounting tabs even with the upper edge of the larger diameter on the lower mount.  I posted up a few photos to illustrate what I’m talking about.  With the T3 camber plates and T3 lower control arms I don’t anticipate any issue with camber adjustment either.

 

 

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Edited by Jethoncho

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