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260z210

Trigger disc settings

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Posted (edited)

Hello I just finished building a ms2 3.0 ecu for the first time and I’m trying to get my 260z l28et swap going I have the injectors firing and all sensors working.  I’m getting spark but not consistent. 

I’m thinking the settings in tunerstudio are not right. I have the diyautotune trigger disc. In the l28et dizzy using a stock 260z coil. 

I have ignition input capture set on falling edge. 

I wasn’t too sure about cranking trigger but it’s set to calculated. 

Coil charging scheme at standard coil charge and spark output on going high(inverted)

The trigger offset is set at 345 degrees as instructed on the install guide. 

Skip pulses is set to 3 also not sure if that’s right. 

The trigger wheel teeth is set to 12 and 1 missing teeth. Also don’t know if I need to skip teeth or delay but both set to 0. 

Any input will help thanks. 

Edited by 260z210

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Posted (edited)

Post your MSQ. 

 

 Not sure what you mean by Cranking Trigger set to " Calculated " That doesn't seem right. Never even seen that setting. 

 

What firmware version are you using? You should be using 3.4.2.  

 

Note: Trigger wheel can be installed upside down. And that will screw you royally. #1 Tooth angle will be way out. 

 

Here is a screenshot of one of my long Time customers Trigger settings.

 

Spark A Output  Pin can be JS10 or D14.. Depends on how the board was built. 

 

DIY Trigger settings. .jpg

Edited by Chickenman

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Posted (edited)

Distributor Rotor must also be Phased correctly. This step is often missed but is critical to proper operation with a single coil and distributor. Covered in FSM and in MS Hardware Manuals. 

 

Attached is a text version of instructions I supply to my customers. Along with a picture of a properly Phased rotor. Note the position of the Outer slot in relation to the rotor. If the outer slot is on the other side of the rotor after proper Phasing. You have the trigger disc in upside down. 

 

Phased Rotor #4.jpg

Edited by Chickenman

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Phasing of the distributor rotor must be done on all L-series engines that run A Distributor with HT Leads and a single coil. It does not have to be done with WasteSpark Coil Packs or COP. 


To " Phase "  the distributor rotor:
 
1: Disable ignition and injectors. Easiest way is to disconnect the 4 pin terminal at the Dizzy.
 
2: Note where #1 Spark terminal is on the distributor cap. Grab a Sharpie and make a mark on the distributor body that lines up with #1 plug terminal. Remove dizzy cap.
 
3: Bump the engine over till the Timing mark is at 25 BTDC.
 
4: Note the position of the distributor rotor in relation to the Sharpie mark you made on the distributor body. You want the distributor rotor to be centered on that mark. Loosen the two 6mm ( 10mm hex ) bolts at the bottom of the distributor. Rotate the dizzy body until the Rotor Tip is centered on your mark. Tighten the bolts.
 
5: Replace distributor Cap and reconnect terminals. . Congrats. You have successfully " Phased " your distributor rotor. This step is necessary on all programmable ignitions that use a distributor. 
 
Important. Phasing the distributor will alter your #1 Tooth Angle. So follow the Sync distributor steps and Lock you timing to 10 BTDC under Trigger wheel settings. With a timing light, adjust your #1 Tooth Angle to get the Timing mark lined up to 10 BTDC. 345 degree's is a good starting point. 

Change the Fixed Timing back to " Use Table " Burn the settings. Then Cycle the ignition Off...wait 10 seconds and then back on. Any changes to Trigger Wheel settings usually require a Burn AND an Ignition Cycle to take effect. 

Note: If #1 Tooth angle is out drastically , you may have the Trigger Disc upside down. There is a definate up and down side. DIY site has pictures of the correct orientation on their site. 
 
 

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16 hours ago, Chickenman said:

Phasing of the distributor rotor must be done on all L-series engines that run A Distributor with HT Leads and a single coil. It does not have to be done with WasteSpark Coil Packs or COP. 


To " Phase "  the distributor rotor:
 
1: Disable ignition and injectors. Easiest way is to disconnect the 4 pin terminal at the Dizzy.
 
2: Note where #1 Spark terminal is on the distributor cap. Grab a Sharpie and make a mark on the distributor body that lines up with #1 plug terminal. Remove dizzy cap.
 
3: Bump the engine over till the Timing mark is at 25 BTDC.
 
4: Note the position of the distributor rotor in relation to the Sharpie mark you made on the distributor body. You want the distributor rotor to be centered on that mark. Loosen the two 6mm ( 10mm hex ) bolts at the bottom of the distributor. Rotate the dizzy body until the Rotor Tip is centered on your mark. Tighten the bolts.
 
5: Replace distributor Cap and reconnect terminals. . Congrats. You have successfully " Phased " your distributor rotor. This step is necessary on all programmable ignitions that use a distributor. 
 
Important. Phasing the distributor will alter your #1 Tooth Angle. So follow the Sync distributor steps and Lock you timing to 10 BTDC under Trigger wheel settings. With a timing light, adjust your #1 Tooth Angle to get the Timing mark lined up to 10 BTDC. 345 degree's is a good starting point. 

Change the Fixed Timing back to " Use Table " Burn the settings. Then Cycle the ignition Off...wait 10 seconds and then back on. Any changes to Trigger Wheel settings usually require a Burn AND an Ignition Cycle to take effect. 

Note: If #1 Tooth angle is out drastically , you may have the Trigger Disc upside down. There is a definate up and down side. DIY site has pictures of the correct orientation on their site. 
 
 

 

Thanks for all the info I’m gonna load the latest firmware in a bit I have 3.0.2 I believe. I’m pretty sure I have the disc the right way but I will double check. And I do need to phase it. 

But my ignition dialog box on tunerstudio does not have all those options and looks way different here’s some pics of them. 

604DAC91-B145-4F7F-9DD4-78BEF76ACAF3.jpeg

60C19633-61FD-47C0-9F3B-D846C74720A6.jpeg

6F30DED2-6EA4-4E72-8EB7-E3070528CD4D.jpeg

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^ Because you are on very old Firmware.

 

1: Export all of your Target AFR,  VE Fuel and Spark Tables to your desktop. Take screen shots of any other important settings.

 

3: Download and update your ECU firmware.

 

4: Do NOT load your old Tune. Start a new project and use the Default-Tune.msq that will be in the 3.4.2 Firmware folder that you downloaded. 

 

5: Import your AFR, Spark Timing and VE Tables from your desktop.

 

6: Calibrate your sensors and save.

 

7: I would recommend leaving the Baro settings and WUE settings on the new defaults. The later firmware has a different way of calculating Baro correction. It uses the 100% line a a zero baseline or correction.

Lots of bug fixes and improvements in the new Firmware.

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20 hours ago, Chickenman said:

^ Because you are on very old Firmware.

 

1: Export all of your Target AFR,  VE Fuel and Spark Tables to your desktop. Take screen shots of any other important settings.

 

3: Download and update your ECU firmware.

 

4: Do NOT load your old Tune. Start a new project and use the Default-Tune.msq that will be in the 3.4.2 Firmware folder that you downloaded. 

 

5: Import your AFR, Spark Timing and VE Tables from your desktop.

 

6: Calibrate your sensors and save.

 

7: I would recommend leaving the Baro settings and WUE settings on the new defaults. The later firmware has a different way of calculating Baro correction. It uses the 100% line a a zero baseline or correction.

Lots of bug fixes and improvements in the new Firmware.

 Well I never got it running so I was just gonna start from scratch. And thanks for the advice I loaded the firmware and now I have all the options and I put the ignition options in and wasn’t too sure about the fuel I’m running stock l28et injectors he’s a pic of the setting I put it on. 

I did all that and it started up for like 2 secs but did not idle. 

I still have to phase the dizzy would that do it?? Thanks for everything 

ABA0F9E7-0443-441B-90D3-55952A69FDA7.jpeg

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Phasing the distributor should be done first. But if you are at 335 degrees on your #1 Tooth angle you are going to be pretty darned close.  

 

Attach your new MSQ and we might be able to help some more. 

 

One thing that trips people up is that the ignition switch on some S30 models has two separate circuits. Check that you have Power to the coil in both the Crank and Run position. Often people have only one or the other circuit hooked up amd you need both. 

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I also do Remote Tuning for a very reasonable cost if you are still stuck. I'll send you a PM with details. Saves you a ton of time and headaches. 

 

Unfortunately I am very busy at the moment and won't be doing any Remote Tunes until after August 31st. 

 

Thrashing on my 280Z trying to get it ready for a  Road Trip to Monterey for the Rolex Vintage Races. Datsun is the Marque group this year. 

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15 hours ago, Chickenman said:

Phasing the distributor should be done first. But if you are at 335 degrees on your #1 Tooth angle you are going to be pretty darned close.  

 

Attach your new MSQ and we might be able to help some more. 

 

One thing that trips people up is that the ignition switch on some S30 models has two separate circuits. Check that you have Power to the coil in both the Crank and Run position. Often people have only one or the other circuit hooked up amd you need both. 

so I phased the dizzy and it starts right up and I can keep it running but I have to give it throttle so I'm pretty sure its getting power during crank as well .

he is my current tune.

CurrentTune.msq

 

and I will definitely keep you in mind for that remote tuning thanks so much

Edited by 260z210

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PM me with your E-mail address and I'll send you a Quicky Tune. No where near ideal but should get you running better and idling. You may have to richen or Lean idle . Shoot for 13.8 on your WB AFR .  Calibrate your sensors with new Tune.  

 

At least I hope you have a WB AFR Gauge. If not get one. And not Innovate. AEM or 14 Point7 are good. Innovate is a POS. ( And apparently going out of business. Bought out by AEM ... so the rumours say )

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