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Drilled for cooling

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I don't know if this person is a member here, but I found this video last night randomly. My only question is the height of the tube in relation to the thermostat. Won't this make it very difficult to bleed all the air out of the system?

 

 

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Yeah I noticed this video recently as well. Not sure who the originator is.

 

I'd have put a bleed valve at the end of the (front) of the fuel/coolant rail. Overall though I'm glad to see people getting the information out. It's not an expensive mod, and I'd consider it VITAL for anyone who wants to push the limits of their tune, otherwise you're going to be needing to taper the ignition timing on 5 and 6 significantly, if you have the luxury to do so.

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Posted (edited)

If you turn the speed up to 1.5.  It's kind of watchable.  Lots of simple advice, like how to drill a hole.  Not so sure he really understands how the modification works.

 

Pretty sure he's read this thread. Should have mentioned it - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/

 

"Embroidered" marks...

Edited by NewZed

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Making videos can be surprisingly hard, if you use L you can skip past a lot of fluff people tend to put in. 

 

I imagine a bleed port in the front of the rail with a tall grafter filler on the radiator and maybe even jacking up the car quite a bit would be required to really bleed the system.

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If the flow is high won't the bubbles get pushed out?  Never really understood the bleeding problems, in the high flow areas.  That's whole point of the modification, to increase flow rate in certain areas.  If flow rate can't push the air then it's not very high.

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8 hours ago, mutantZ said:

...I don't know if this person is a member here, but I found this video last night randomly...

 

S30kid. He's on HybridZ, but doesn't seem terribly active. He's got a VQ in his Z now, but you might PM here or on Instagram to see if he has any observations to share from his time with the L.

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Hi, Already done years ago : 6 holes above exhaust pipes, and one big tube feeding water in reverse flow with an  australian electric water pump Davis Craig. 

Absolutely  no problem of over warming 

there are two little purging hoses in the upper roof  of the head , for avoiding eventually steam , returning to the expansion tank 

excuse my bad english in my explanations 

Regards 

Didier 

PS : Peter Macdonnel built an amazing system like this on the Green Hornet , but no reverse flow 

CIMG1131.JPG

CIMG2292.JPG

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6 hours ago, didier said:

one big tube feeding water in reverse flow with an  australian electric water pump Davis Craig.

Thanks for posting those pics! Did you remove the impeller on the stock water pump? What kind of numbers were you putting down, that motor looks like a serious piece of kit.

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It's not a bad video .  I recently just did the same mod on my N47 head.  Engine has 10.3 to 1 CR and is a bit detonation sensitive on the two back cylinders. We have crap fuel where I live.

 

I only did cylinders #5 and #6. Don't feel there is any need for more on a street driver. Also, front hose is way too large. 3/8" hose or 5/16" hose is all that is required. You just want to get rid of steam pockets near #5 and #6 and provide a bit more balanced flow.

 

I used the Fast fuel rail. It has an 11/16" ID. That makes the walls rather thin if you thread them for a NPT fitting. Instead , I got some 11/16" core plugs. Used Loctite pipe sealant on them and tapped them into place. Tapping the end of the FAST rail for NPT thread would leave the wall so thin, I would be afraid of cracking the rail. 

 

If you got a different brand fuel rail with only a 1/2" or 9/16" ID, that would be better for tapping the ends. I don't know why FAST made the ID so large.  Most other rails are only 1/2" to 9/16" ID. That leaves enough meat at the end of the rail to Tap for a fitting.

 

Edit: Instead of tapping the end of the Fuel rail for the brass NPT fitting I plugged it. Then , I used a 90 degree 1/4" NPT brass fitting with a 3/8"  hose nipple to connect to the thermostat housing. Tapped the bottom side of the rail with a 1/4" NPT for the return fitting. Same as the tapped holes for the fitting's for the cylinders.

 

I retapped my Thermostat housing from BPT to 1/4" NPT. Really, that's only a minor thread clean up. 

Edited by Chickenman

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