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RWB Jeff - 1970 Datsun 240z - Build


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My 0.02 for what it is worth.

 

You may want to reinstall the seats and see if you have enough movement. I ended up cutting my bar and base out for an extra 2-3 clicks on the seats and I am not that tall of a person.

 

That rear kick down is also pretty low. You don't see much out of the rear quarters, but that bar is smack right in the middle of it. Not to mention I don't believe you are supposed to have curvature on the rear legs like that if you think the cage will come into play at any point. 

 

An interesting thing I heard about the dimple die plates on cages from a builder was that it is the sign of poor fitment. While they look cool and have function, compared to having the cage butt right up to the pillar and if needed welding the cage directly to the pillar which is cleaner, saves weight, and improves visibility, the dimple dies are sub optimal. He said he uses them when he does cages for customers as the turn around is usually pretty fast or they don't approve of cutting access holes to drop the cage or for installs, but on personal vehicles or projects with more time he opts not to use them.

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On 3/18/2019 at 12:42 AM, seattlejester said:

My 0.02 for what it is worth.

 

You may want to reinstall the seats and see if you have enough movement. I ended up cutting my bar and base out for an extra 2-3 clicks on the seats and I am not that tall of a person.

 

That rear kick down is also pretty low. You don't see much out of the rear quarters, but that bar is smack right in the middle of it. Not to mention I don't believe you are supposed to have curvature on the rear legs like that if you think the cage will come into play at any point. 

 

An interesting thing I heard about the dimple die plates on cages from a builder was that it is the sign of poor fitment. While they look cool and have function, compared to having the cage butt right up to the pillar and if needed welding the cage directly to the pillar which is cleaner, saves weight, and improves visibility, the dimple dies are sub optimal. He said he uses them when he does cages for customers as the turn around is usually pretty fast or they don't approve of cutting access holes to drop the cage or for installs, but on personal vehicles or projects with more time he opts not to use them.

Appreciate the input.... glad people are watching.....

 

One thing you did not see in the video is that i had the seats mounted way to many times to count to make sure all the bars were set correctly. The distance is perfect for me with a wheel. I am 5 11" 

 

When we created the rear bars..... we looked into the NHRA specs. It states that the rear bar is allowed to have a bend.... but that bar can not be attached to a TUB. but the floor. So i am going to have a cage specialist come and check it all out and give me some better direction on those bars. They are tacked in and can be removed.

 

The front of the cage is set perfectly...... I truly don't need to add the gussetts but really like them. I tried to bead roll pieces but the radius's were to tight to do so. Drew and I  chatted last night and i may keep them off or get something water jetted out of thicker material for the front bars. Not decided yet.

 

The next video will be more of an update as we have been trying to get more fab done without the camera. You will notice the door bar is not of spec either...more for aesthetics. However, we will be putting a fully removable door bar for when i am at the track. 

 

Jeff

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Nice build!  

 

Granted that it's too late to presently matter, but have you considered setting the firewall back, to create more room in the engine-bay, and to set the engine even further back?  Given the plethora of fabrication-skills that we see on the Forum, I'm surprised that this modification isn't more common.

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8 hours ago, Michael said:

Nice build!  

 

Granted that it's too late to presently matter, but have you considered setting the firewall back, to create more room in the engine-bay, and to set the engine even further back?  Given the plethora of fabrication-skills that we see on the Forum, I'm surprised that this modification isn't more common.

 

That is a lot of work for not much benefit. You can already achieve 50/50 balance. With most engines, V8's in particular you can already put the engine behind the front axle. 

 

If you went through with it you would gain some benefit in say braking where you wouldn't be throwing weight past the front axle to some extent and in cornering the weight would be more centered, but you would also have a firewall that encroaches on the already small cabin.

 

Not to mention the extensive work it would take to either move everything back and make room for it which would include widening the trans tunnel, shrinking the already short drive shaft, moving the transmission mounts, the list goes on.

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