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Pharaohabq

Reviving #5837.

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My 70' 240z is #5837. It was last registered in 1990.  I expect it's been at least since then that it's actually run.  Story was that they bought it, towed it home, pulled it apart and got in over their head, so they put most everything in side and parked it out in a field in rural NM.  I bought it about 3 years ago, or so and recently have found time to start working on it. 

 

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What I've done so far: 

           I've looked over the engine and replaced obviously cracked hoses.  I found the engine, though it's an L24/e88, is not the original engine #. That's unfortunate, but not a show stopper.  It looks like the Motor was at least looked over because there's no oil leakage, or obvious damage.  The engine does have a plastic fan, and the Radiator shroud was in the back. So I'd guess it was rebuilt at one point.  Oil is still clear. 

          Months ago, I pulled the plugs and squirted 30weight oil into the cylinders. let it sit a month, then I came back with a battery pack and cranked it over with no fuel/spark  a few times. then I let it sit a while.  3 weeks ago I looked through the carbs and made sure they were hooked up correctly and sealed off anything that would be a vaccum leak. I put on new plug wires, adjusted the points, and noted the dist was loose, no biggie..  Then I got a jar and put about a pint of fuel in it with a new hose leading to the mechanical pump. Connected the battery pack and cranked it over (no water in the system)  it actually started with a cloud of sand and dust and noise since the exhaust header is held by one bolt and no gasket.  it ran fine for about 45 seconds, when I shut it off.  The oil pressure gauge read pressure. 

          I let it cool an hour or so while I went to lunch and to get parts, then came back and filled the Radiator, (Which leaks), filled the jar with another pint and started the engine again, just letting it idle.  The Dist is loose and for good reason, it's one tooth off, so I'll have to fix that, no big deal.  It idles about 3 minutes on a pint of fuel before it cycles that fuel back to the tank.  I don't want much in that tank since I've got to drop it an look.    The heat from the engine pushed water out the leak in the radiator. It's the drain plug, I tried to order a new petcock, but it showed up at 7/16" rather than the 5/16" that the plug looks like it should be. so if anyone knows the right part # for that, let me know.  I found one of the freeze plugs is seeping so I ordered a new kit for those, not too hard to put in.

 

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On to the body.  It's pretty rough, the paint is so bad, and they'd sanded and primered about 1/2 of it before they parked it.  I'm going to need to patch a bit. pinholed floorpans.  I'm going to need a full rubber replacement kit. Does anyone know if those kit include the welting and rubber seals for the doors?   I ordered new  hatch struts. My Series one glass is good, but the defrost lines look like they've been scratched pretty bad.  I don't know if those are worth trying to repair.  

     I replaced the hood and left fender along with a new (used) fiberglass sugar scoop. since the hood had rust and had ben hit, and the left fender was sanded but not protected 27 years ago.  The car had a slight repair in the inner nose next to where the horns mount, so it was obvious this was hit at some point. The metal sugar scoop I replaced being another hint. 

 

I had tried the brake pedal and the clutch pedal, the clutch went right to the floor and the brake master was frozen, so replacing those was needed.   I replaced the clutch master and went to replace the slave, and found the slave was missing. Replaced it with new, and as expected, the rubber line leakes like a sieve, so I have that and all 4 wheel rubber lines on order.  I tried to find a replacement Brake MC for a 70' and no existy, unless I want to pay near $300 for a rebuilt.  I found the early S30 MC has the Front reservior at the back of the MC, while 71-73' MC ($50) has it in the middle of the MC. After some reading people have said you can just re-route the "front brake" line to the middle, and "rear brake" line to the end.  It should work fine. I did this and all it took was a couple slight bends to swap the hard lines from the manifold to the MC, front to back.  Both are 7/8" MC's.   I bled it and connected the hard lines, and sure enough the wheel hoses are leaking. (nevermind I'm expecting to have to replace/rebuild the wheel cylinders.)  So until parts are delivered I'm stuck on that part. 

      I cleaned out the car and I found a lot of EFI parts from S130's and most of the interior vinyl and some removed parts like the fan shroud.  I'll need a full set of emblems and the Series 1 hatch parts, but it's mostly complete.   I found the shift lever from a S130 and put that on (it was missing) and found this is a 4 speed, (possibly stock)  I have a driveshaft from a 280z that will hopefully fit. I need to find bolts though since the tranny is held to the engine by the starter bolts and 2 bolts on the top.  There's a lot of missing bolts. Does anyone have a good source for the M5, m8 and m12 bolts.  I'll put in a 5speed since the engine isn't original it won't make any value difference.   I'll post pictures shortly...

 

Phar

 

 

Edited by Pharaohabq
added photos

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Yeah I've been busy raising a daughter and changing jobs, it's been tough to get back to things.    I'll post up some pictures soon  I need to take some when I get back out there.

 

Not a Z note, but I have an 87 jeep wrangler that has a pinhole leak in the xfercase, any thoughts on how to patch that?  it was from rubbing on the belly pan.

 

Phar

 

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28 minutes ago, Matt 78Z said:

JB Weld, I've seen people do some serious patch work with it.

If it is not structurally damaged and just a pin hole, JB weld is really not a bad idea. Clean the area well, scuff it up, JB weld. Done. If it is on the bottom, you may have to drain to keep oil out of the epoxy. 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks, yeah I was thinking to JBweld it, but I might just drill that section and thread in a bolt since it's in an area where it was rubbing on the Belly pan.  I'm adding a rubber bumper to keep it from flopping around. the stock mount is 1/2 torn through. 

 

Anyhow that's here nor there, and not really related.  So back to what is.  (again Pictures are forthcoming. I am trying to locate the usb3.1 roundy cable for my camera. )

 

So I'd left off after swapping the Brake MC and Clutch MC,  The Clutch slave rubber line leaks, I just have to get back to that since I was waiting on parts.

 

I went to check the wheel cylinders since the Brake MC is just pushing fluid.  Looking under the car I can see fluid  running out of the  passenger side rear brake, so I jacked it up this past weekend, and  put it up on stands, and pulled the wheels off.  240Z's have rear drums as you know, and I could see fluid  dripping out of the drum.  it was stuck on hard, (this is common, you just need the BFH to get it off)  So a few whacks with the BFH and the drum comes loose. (oh another tech tip, a 4x4 block will allow you to use a claw hammer to lever the drum pressing against the strut. )  but suprise!  when I pulled the drum off, There was NO SHOES, no hardware, nothing,  they had sometime before yanked the shoes for some reason.  (note Ebrake cable rusted through)  so yeah,  it was leaking because the cylinder had nothing behind it.  No big deal, except the brake hardware kit is online order only, so that and new shoes will show up this week sometime. 

 

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I pulled the wheel cylinder and the rubber line since I have a replacement. The hard line was frozen at the cylinder so I pulled it too.  I was supposed to remove the bleeder valve but it just snapped off when I tried to turn it. not good

 

With the cylinder out, I took a closer look. The rubber didn't "look" bad, but it was brittle. Fortunately I planned on rebuilding it.   The Cylinder itself was frozen in there with hardened fluid. Not a good thing. I'm going to need to flush all the hard lines.  I wedged the cylinder out and it didn't look too bad, but not too good either.  New 240z drum cylinders are out of stock everywhere you look so it's either fix these or find something newer. 

 

I inspected the cylinder and piston and fortunately it was just gunked up but not pitted. So I started with oil and 400 grit paper, then 600 grit paper and smoothed the inside of the cylinder out, visually there's some staining, but it's nice and smooth. I cleaned it with brake cleaner. rubber gloves were difficult with the sandpaper. 

 

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once I was happy there it was time to look at the bleeder that snapped off. it looks like it was overtightened at one point.  Sucky part is it's two angles off from square. 

 

I pulled off the other rear wheel, and pulled off the Drum, Tada! brake shoes, no matter, it's getting replaced. New shoes are $20. so I took it all out and pulled the wheel cylinder. This one wasn't leaking, but also had no fluid in the line, so that's interesting.  It's a lot easier to pull it without brake fluid everywhere.  I took that one back to tthe bunch, and yup, frozen like the first. I wedged out the piston, same deal, cruddy put not pitted. so back with the oil and sandpaper. I wire brushed all the outside. The Ebrake adjuster was frozen in place too, but a couple taps popped that out. 

 

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I put it in the vice and estimated the angles on the bleeder valve. Then I tried to match these up on the first cylinder on my drill press.  I slowly drilled out the snapped off bleeder valve then went in with the right thread tap, fortunately I was close enough that the old threads popped loose and pulled out.  A few times in and out, and I could knock the last of the old bleeder remains from the hole. I swapped over the good bleeder and it seemed to fit perfect. but that was a pucker moment since I don't know where I'd find another cylinder. 

 

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I had to clean out solidified brake fluid from all the passages with a piece of wire, and I blew out all the crud.  The Ebrake adjusters were cleaned out, and greased, the little bolt has reversed threads, so don't lose that

 

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I cleaned up the piston and with a little oil pushed on the new rubber. The new kit fit well. The little spring is important though I don't know exactly what it does.  I haven't put pressure in these yet, since I don't have the new shoes yet, but I'm looking forward to it. I'll put these back in, get them connected, then when the new hardware shows up I'll close both sides back up, put on a new Ebrake cable and then look into the front.  If the rears are this bad, I expect the front Calipers to be in not so good shape. Though Those are still availible so I'd just swap them out along with the rubber lines.

 

Look I added the pictures!

 

Phar

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Edited by Pharaohabq
Photos Added

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Well I got to work on things a bit more and unfortunately that brake bleeder is leaking which isn't so surprising.  I put in a solid 1/4in bolt in with a little gray rtv until I can source a replacement cylinder cheap. 

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I resembled the rear brakes with new lines and shoes and bled them,  they do not seem to be leaking.  

 

While I had the rear up,  I dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out.  There is no inside rust and I wire brushed and bedliner the outside.  I remounted the tank with new hoses. Though inside there's a air tank of sorts above the fuel filler that has a broken fitting I will need to repair.  I'm not sure if that's a canister of sorts. 

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Next I'll work on the front brakes. There is no driveshaft, and a 280z shaft I have is an inch too long, I'm going to swap in a 82' 5 speed, so I'll wait till then to shorten the shaft.  The 4speed feels gummy when I was turning the driveshaft by hand. 27 years of sitting might have been bad for it. 

 

 

Look how bad this line was.

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Edited by Pharaohabq

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I hope that wheel cylinder holds! I guess that’s on part I wouldn’t hope it works . I wouldn’t skimp when it comes to brake parts , and yes I know how expensive the early ones are- I own 4858. Looks like it had some decent pitting that would cause the cylinder to be oversized trying to clean it

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Yeah, it's actually stained, not pitted, but hey, I found this:  

Centric Parts 134.42606 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder

It's almost the same, and only really really concours purists would know the difference.  It's not the exact one for the 70, but the cylinder is really similar.  So much so that the 70' rubber cover would fit the same.   The only difference is that they reworked the spot where the brake line attaches. (there's no bolt, and the line attached straight rather than at an angle. )  I've ordered these and will see how they work.

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