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so you wanna swap an rb eng? here ya go


stony

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so i've been doing some searching and just trying to find a straight forward answer on transmissions...

 

when doing an rb swap, you need a rb25det trans correct? now if that trans ever destroys it's internals, i can use the internals from a z32? This is where I just keep getting confused because i see z32 thrown around so much when talking about the rb swaps. Also, the final drive of these trans match the stock 240z rear diff or am I having to use the rb25 rear diff as well? Only the drive train area is what's concerning me on this swap and I find it hard to find a straight forward answer. Thanks

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so i've been doing some searching and just trying to find a straight forward answer on transmissions...

 

when doing an rb swap, you need a rb25det trans correct? now if that trans ever destroys it's internals, i can use the internals from a z32? This is where I just keep getting confused because i see z32 thrown around so much when talking about the rb swaps. Also, the final drive of these trans match the stock 240z rear diff or am I having to use the rb25 rear diff as well? Only the drive train area is what's concerning me on this swap and I find it hard to find a straight forward answer. Thanks

 

 

It depends on the swap you do. The rb25 trans is stronger than the rb20 trans. I have read that the rb25 trans is stronger than the rb26 but I don't know. You would have to put down alot of power to tear up a rb25 trans. So I wouldn't worry about it until you tear it up. I would not use a r180 diff I would swap it out for a r200 diff. You can get a r200 from any 75-83 280z. I have a rb20 trans in mine and I have 3.9 gear ratio diff and I like it. I don't drive alot of highway anyways. I hope that answers your questions

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

Possible RB30 (or any RB) engine mount alternative to mount the engine lower in the stock holes.

 

FJ60 Series Engine Mount..

 

I have a blog that im using for my 280 at http://280zxproject.blogspot.com/

 

Im considering trying these FJ60 mounts since they look like theyre about half the height of the VL / R31 mounts. My hood is fouling on the intake manifold, im going to swap it to side mount anyway, but I figure if I can get the engine lower its beneficial all round. Ill have issues with the sump, but I should be able to remove it and do a cut and shut to give more room.. Someone has modified the sump at some point in the past so itd hold more oil anyway.

 

Some pics...

 

FJ60_enginemount.JPG

FJ60_enginemount2.jpg

FJ60_enginemount3.jpg

 

Any thoughts?

 

EDIT - (just adding as possible alternatives when I find them..)

SIERRA SJ413 87/98

Land Rover V8

Edited by moodah
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Looks like a good idea. I would PM Pat1 to make you a new oil pan so that you can easily lower your engine set without hitting on the oil pan. He does amazing custom oil pans and can make just about any oil pan you want to give you whatever specs you need. He did mine and my RB20 is sitting maybe 1/8" above the steering rack. With his oil pan and the custom engine mounts I have plenty of hood clearance. I could probably move my engine another few inches closer to my firewall and drop the engine another 1/2"-1". Although not worth all the work and I have plenty of clearance currently.

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  • 7 months later...

I realize this is an old post but if you are still around perhaps you can answer a question for me. i am doing a RB25det swap and have an sds (i inherited but have not used) i see you used an sds so my question is how did you interface with the variable cam system. The folks at racetec (SDS) keep asking me if the N-VCS is "on-or off" or "proportional" and i cannot find any info that let's me answer that question. i have a manual but it either is not clear or i am too dense. your assistance is appreciated.

Edited by Kclank
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I found it. It's in an excel format. I cant post to the file upload because of that. if anyone is using SDSEFI and want what my map was with stock injectors email me at the above address and i will send it to you. Should be a good start if i remember correctly it dynoed at 350 rwhp at 12 psi i think.

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  • 2 months later...

This may have been asked or may be obvious but after reading this whole eight page thread, i could not find much on the ECU to use and the Wire harnes to use. the main post said thay didnt use the stock ecu or wire harness. ide like to know which ones were used. I plan on going the RB25det route and know about using the RB20det z31 j spec oil pan and sump. correct? the motor mounts ill buy from mckinney. getting the motor in and sitting is not the hard part. wiring is not hard either but not knowing the ecu or wire harness to use makes it a challenge. so far i assume to use the stock rb25 ecu and engine wire harness? does that just plug in or do i need to buy a conversion harness? or will i have to wire up the tach speedo temp ect my selp? I plan on getting the RB25det and dropping it in stock, not upgrading anything, just kinda wanna plug n play. I own a 73 240z and this is my first one and im gonna jump right to the rb25det engine. haha thanks in advance guys this site is super helpfull!

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Nothing is plug_and_play. Most people I have seen (including me) have used all aftermarket gages including tach and speedo. I think there have been a few to get the stock tach to work with the rb motor. I originally used SDSEFI and the engine harness for the rb26 was modified. The stock L engine harness was completely removed. The link you posted should be all you need.

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http://www.wiringspecialties.com/n4ecupaha.html

I have found this, however I feel like it doesnt apply to the z and RB swap.

And this

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/r33rbtoanyda.html

 

 

Sorry im a noob at the Z secen. Also im working on my proper scentence structer. I went to public schools so please bare with me. haha

Edited by 3ryce
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I'll just got with the stock computer. I don't plan on doing anything fancy here. Would someone please shed some light on the links to the wireing harnes links I have posted please? Thanks guys.

Edited by 3ryce
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The wiring for the rb20 is very,very easy. It just takes a little time and knowledge to figure it out. Don't pay someone to connect 9-12 wires . I can't remember how many but I know it wasn't more than 12. Here is a writeup I did. This will get you running and driving.

 

 

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90784-wiring-guide-for-installing-a-rb20det-into-a-datsun-z/

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