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stony

so you wanna swap an rb eng? here ya go

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Guest storm280z

i have a friend of mine in texas that ia a direct japan motor importer. if you are looking for a motor (sr20 rbs 2jzgte) he can getyou one for a good price. im getting a rb20 from him an, these motor have never been state side so these good :eek:

Originally posted by Kennysgreen280zt:

Nicely written , I now understand what it takes. My question is if there is anyone in australia or japan that would be willing to set a Z guy up with all the parts needed to do the swap. someone that would get the motor tranny and oilpan and motor mounts all together? And also not rip a Z guy off in the process? Just ccurious , thanks

~Kenny

:eek:

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Guest Anonymous

I was wondring I have a 78 280Z and I am Thinking about putting a Rb20det in it and I am wondring

 

what kind of power would I get out of it stock? like 1/4 time and top speed stuff like that.

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Guest 250z

Parts numbers if anyone is interested:

 

11110 - Oil sump

15050 - Oil pickup

15200G - Oil pickup O Ring

11232 - RH Mount

11233 - LH Mount

11220 - Rubber mounting (LH and RH)

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Guest Anonymous

Would an RB20 single turbo manifold have any clearance issues with the shock towers when used with an RB26 head? I have plans to put an RB30 block/RB26 head combo in my 280ZX. Thanks

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Guest blownd15b

This is some realy good info. I was thinking to myself MANY months ago about weather or not anyone has done this... and well my questions are now answered.

 

Stony, what typed of times did you run in your Zcar right after you got the motor in your car.

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Guest Hudson's Hawk

Thanks for the great write up on the RB engine. I've seen a few at MSA in LA and was curious to know more about them. I'm planning on doing an engine swap over the next few months and for the hp you states it can put out, it may be an easier swap then a V8. I think I'll need to find someone who has one in there car and go for a ride.

 

Anymore info where to read up on the engine, or any websites to visit for the nitty gritty on the ginny...would be wonderful..

 

Thanks,

Hudson' Hawk...

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the very first run at the track was a 12.3 at 114 mph

 

by the end of the day i was in the low 11s after some more tuning.

 

the only thing that changed atfter the injector change and turnng the booste up was i started breaking rearend stuff and when i didnt break my MPH was up around 127mph.

 

my old 60 was 1.7 now its in the 2.0+ range. i have had a couple of 1.9s but anything harder then that it breaks something ;<

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Guest Macrobiote

Thank You! I've been looking for info on the RB swap for almosts 6 months now. I ran across this company that sold RB25s for about 3 grand and I want to be sure this shop is credible before I drop 3 large. Anyone who knows anything about them andy info is greatly appreciated http://www.ardperformance.com

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So why does the stock oil system not work for the RB26DETT in a Z? Due to steering rack clearance issues?

 

Do you think the mods you made (talking to stony) would make the engine more suseptable to drying up during hard accelleration and braking? It might not be an issue until you start hitting barelly streetable numbers though.

 

I plan to go with a RB26DETT for my future project purelly for the wow factor. To do a 2jz would be almost as much, and your initial motor can be hard to find. Most wreaked supras around have already had the motor taken and such. There are less than 12k supras in the USA... that's not many to jump on. I have a huge smile on my face though thanks to the new lexus IS300 having the 2jz non turbo. The more blocks the merrier.

 

V8s are cool (i'm a huge muscle car fan. favorite car always having been the A/C cobra) but the sound of a V8 coming from a Z just doesn't seem right for a road racing car (like i'm going for) and if just seems right to stay with nissan.

 

Love all the work you've done stony in keeping it all documented. Job well done m/ o.o m/

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Sterring crank not an issue. its the sterring rack and engine frame member that is the problem. the oil pan sump would hit it in the front sump configuration.

 

There should not be any problems with going to a rear sump as long as the pan and pickup that are fabricated are done right. many others in japan have done this same type of mode for other swaps and not had any issues.

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Guest StreetVelocityGTR

in all this are you all talking about s30 bodys if so what about z31s who here has one with a swap in it (rb26) do the same things apply i know that the oil pan does have to be changed but does everything else the same to

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Just been reading through these posts and have a few questions,

 

If i want to install an RB25/26/30 engine into my Zed

all i would have to do is (this is just to get the engine in place),

 

Get the sump&pickup from an Rb20Det (from a Z31) and then install that onto my RB 25/26/30 engine - now i have a rear mounted sump, so the sump wont hit the cross-member,

 

Then i either,

Use the stock RB motor mounts (but this sits the engine kinda high and forward - so not probably the best position)

or

Make them myself,

or

Buy them pre-maid, there is a mob in Australia who sells mounts for an RB30 to Zed - these mounts would still work with Rb25's & Rb26's as they are still the same family of engine, so externally they are still pretty much the same bloc? ie.........engine mounts still in the same place?

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Yesterday I picked up a Sylvia viscous LSD diff, including the entire rear subframe, which I paid $200 for on Ebay. I stole it from him and he never even flinched, never told me what a great deal I got; not a word.

 

So, for those of you in the Northwest, his name is Garrett Hoboy, Advantage Imports, Anacortes, WA, (360)542-1272, and he's got JDM front clips in stock (Skylines, Sylvias, Supras) as well as diffs, transes, seats, wheels, etc. Prices seemed reasonable to me, around $2500 for a complete front Skyline clip with an RB20, or a Sylvia with an SR20. A pair of Prelude seats for $100 which need some brackets seems like a good price...as above, I think he's the kind of person to buy from.

 

I'm always looking for an interesting OHC powerplant to Hybridize a Z but I'm not willing to invest a lot of time into oil pan sump modifications. I just want to drop in something and spend my time tuning it instead of deluding myself that it's a good fit. The RB20's that I saw looked a lot like the L6 from the oil pan view but I can't seem to reconcile the power/wt of an RB20 vs that of an L28ET when the cost and effort is factored in; I'd rather build a turbo 4 cyl to drop in for the sake of handling. From what I've read within this post, it sounds like the RB30 may be a taller-blocked spin-off of the RB20 in order to preserve rod/stroke in the larger displacement engine, so I'm going to search it out to see what the RB30 has to offer. DAW

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