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Found a nice electric fan control cheap


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Hi everyone.

 

I bought a hayden 3647 unit, and found that the wiring for this thing on Taurus fans is NOT correct.

 

The hayden unit is not made for a DUAL MODE setup, it is made for a DUAL FAN setup.

 

so the taurus fan will run both motors and possibly burn up your hayden unit, your relays, or your fan motors from over-running or over-amping the coils in either of the units (since they all have coils of some type). The hayden unit's wires may take the quick shock of the motors starting amp-draw, but it will not take high-speed mode for long, as it's only a 14 or 16 gauge wire (I dunno, I returned mine).

 

I studied and studied and made some electrical schematics for hours (8 - 10 hours) on a weekend with my father, and on the computer using TINA Pro V6, and I came up with a simple diagram that I am posting below.

 

This diagram shows the ignition wire on the hayden unit being powered at all times, to allow for fan run-on as Dan Juday has just pointed out in the post above this one.

 

I apologize for being almost 2 years late on this, but I haven't hard a car long enough to care for the circuit.

 

This setup, wired with fuses where they are shown, will allow one fan to always act as a backup if the relays do not go with the fuses.

 

What I have done myself, is returned the hayden unit, and I bought the Standard Motor Products TS189 fan switch that will turn on at 191-197 degrees F, and turn off at 181-187 degrees F.

 

This puts it just over my OEM thermostat opening of 175, so the engine will not cycle the thermostat open and closed and cause premature wear, or will not let the engine fall below recommended operating temp. The fans should only come on when the engine is really hot, and the second relay will be hooked up to my condenser fan switch which will trigger at 212F (factory rating, as per FSM)...

 

Alternatively, I was considering an A/C switch to power the fan to full speed immediately, but instead I would like to keep the switch independant of the A/C circuit, so I will wire in a small switch beside my stereo deck as there is a nice spot to put some switches there.

 

I apologize for the fact that this image may not be here in a couple of months or years time when it's viewed by others, but the Hybridz Image sizes do not allow the full size of my schematic.

 

Cheers, I hope it helps you guys, and any comments or suggestions are welcome. I took my time to explain what each of the circuit components do in relative detail to one another, while trying to keep the font readable.

 

It prints well on an 8.5x11 with colour (but it's not needed), and it is all hand-drawn. No clip-art here... took me a bit of work, but you guys will find use from it, I'm sure.

 

fan_control-outlines790.jpg.xs.jpg

 

P.S, you may ask why I returned the hayden unit? well, once I figured how much wiring would be inside a box, the hayden unit got too big or the box too costly. I then did some testing with the temperature probe and it does not seem like an automotive grade unit, and I figure that running the unit close to the fan or in the radiator will cause it to cool down against the actual coolant temp of the rad due to windage from the front of the car. What I noticed from the hayden unit is that when it trickles down below the hysteresis shut-off point, the probe clicks the relays on and off VIOLENTLY (that was how mine was, sorry if it's untrue for anyone else).

 

Almost as if it were on the edge of cool down (well, that's because it is). So I put this into perspective. Fans draw the most amperage on startup... One of the other Z31 users had a problem with a melted hayden unit or relay... This led me to believe that the rapid clicking caused the unit to burn down quickly because of the high-amp draw in rapid succession, like machine-gun fire.

 

So That's why I switched to the Nissan Pulsar NX / Sentra sensor. I am removing the plug on the lower intake manifold of my Z31 that the 84-86 models housed the condenser fan switch within, and I'm placing the main sensor there as it is closest to the thermostat. That should be accurate enough and easy to access.

 

The Hayden unit is tiny and it's great for dual-fan low-amperage setups though. Would by again, but possibly with the GM screw-sensor type.

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I'm sure that Dan will chime in here, but....

 

If you read the entire thread, he mentions this, as well as a solution using another SPDT relay to make sure you have a setup in which the fan will not receive power for both high and low.

 

I successfully used the setup Dan posted for a 2 spd. deal out of a Mercury Villager. It works well.

 

Edit: Regardless of earlier posting, that schematic is damn beautiful. Very nice work. Not that the directions are terrible, but Hayden should buy that from you.

Edited by essdeezee
loving the schematic
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hehehe. thanks =) Hayden can contact me at any time. :D

 

I remember Dan mentioning it as well. I just didn't see how it was wired up until I tested in my basement with two independant motors. I drew the diagram because the others were different, and I just wanted to actually have something like this on the net for others to take into consideration. If the weather is good (-20C lately, here without windchill), I'll be working on getting it all in today, or at least have the wire routed so I can finish this up and purge the coolant on my car with a good cleaner, and then get the car back on it's 4 feet after 8 months of being airborne.

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Glad to know about that relay. I saw a lot of them at Pep Boys one day but there was no information available on which one did what. Some other posts here on this site steered me towards a Delta Current Control device which I bought a month ago. Just got notified that it is finally being shipped. This device is suppose to work very good, I am going to use the Taurus fan and with this controller you hook it to the high speed and as the engine heats up the controller cranks up the fan speed to maintain a constant engine temperature. No fluctuations. Less stress on the radiator. This fan also continues to run after shut down until the temp is back down to the trigger temp. This is optional depending how you wire it. Now for the Bad part.... $125 and I ordered a changing 3 color lite that indicates to me at what speed the fan is running, Another $10. We'll see how it works, that is when I get this LT1 running.

Larry

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  • 2 years later...

Bringing this thread back from the dead. (sorry)

 

So, this Hayden unit has an A/C clutch wire that kicks the fans on, can that wire be used as a switch to turn on the fans, say- from a switch at the dash?

I'd assume so, but just dont want to throw 12v at it without having a better educated guess.

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Don't see any reason why a switch in the dash would not work in order to turn on the fan manually. That being said, the trinary A/C switch setup that I installed to protect my new Vintage Air system is set to go to GROUND in order to turn on the condenser fan. Check this on the Hayden unit by seeing if grounding the A/C input wire or applying voltage to it triggers the internal relay. If it is actually designed to turn on with the A/C clutch wire, then 12V+ through a manual switch should engage it as well.

Edited by calpoly-z
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Bringing this thread back from the dead. (sorry)

 

So, this Hayden unit has an A/C clutch wire that kicks the fans on, can that wire be used as a switch to turn on the fans, say- from a switch at the dash?

I'd assume so, but just dont want to throw 12v at it without having a better educated guess.

 

Update: Bought the Hayden 3647 at pep-boys today, spent a few minutes wiring it up, the instructions say the green wire is for the pos. wire on the a/c clutch... so I tested the a/c clutch wire with a 9v battery, it fired them right up. So its good to go.

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I used that controller on a car and it would turn on by itself on very cold nights and kill the battery. It never did respond very well to radiator temps and it allowed the engine temps to fluctuate and sometimes would not turn on until the engine nearly overheated. Other times it would never turn off.

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