JoshB 240Z Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Here are some pictures of my SBF swap that I took this weekend. The engine is basically stock...for now. I am using Al's mount and the stock EFI for a simple install. Soon there will be another one on the street. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Your pictures are kind of on the small side. Can you make them any bigger? !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Hehe, I think it looks good! I can tell its sunny there anyway. Ditto to what Mat said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted August 14, 2003 Author Share Posted August 14, 2003 I couldn't get the pictures and bigger in the post. Is there a trick? Drax-It was sunny and warm. Typical California summer weekend. Makes doing swaps easy. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Ah, you linked the thumbnails and not the full size images. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted August 14, 2003 Author Share Posted August 14, 2003 Thank you. As a side note it took me half the day to figure out how to get the images into a post....and that was with help. I found installing the engine was easier than getting a few pictures into a post. Chalk it up to being dense where the internet is concerned. Thanks again. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHP Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Looks great Josh! I'm doing the same thing and your pics are making me excited. Where did you get the motor mounts to fit Al's crossmember? I got my '91 Mustang EFI 5.0 motor with all accessories, cables, ECU, harness, sensors from All Mustang Recycling in Phoenix AZ. It was very clean. I also bought from them a new HD clutch, T/O bearing and new world class T-5, bellhousing, fork. Shipping to NC was only $375 for all of it. Speak to Tom, 800-454-8387. They sell hundreds of these to kit builders and hot rodders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted August 15, 2003 Author Share Posted August 15, 2003 WHP-I purchased the motor mounts from my local auto parts store. They are standard Ford 302 motor mounts on 66-70 Ford vehicles. I've been told that the mounts were used in many more applications but can't confirm this. How will you be mounting the engine? Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHP Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Josh, I'm using Al's front cross member, thus that engine position. I'm also going to reinforce the car by running rectangular tubing from the front just behind the TC mount to the rear subframe. To maintain ground clearance on my lowered car (it will be street driven) I'm cutting out the floorpan rail and slot the floorpan where the rail was and allow the tubing to protrude into the cockpit. Kind of half in and half out, then weld it up. This will allow me to turn the rectangular tubing vertical like a full frame vehicle. The factory rear subframe is higher than the front rails so the new rails will angle up toward the back some. The intrusion into the cab will be between my feet and minor at that point. As it goes up toward the rear it will be mostly concealed under the seat. I plan to make a JTR style transmission mount that ties across to these new rails too. I plan to sandwich the front rails with tall reinforcement scab plates just forward of the firewall, hopefully even welding to the firewall contour. I'm going stock EFI until the car is sorted, then add AFR heads, cam, intake, etc. What are you using for headers? Will Piatt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted August 15, 2003 Author Share Posted August 15, 2003 Will, Al's mount makes installation easy. One of the hardest parts of the swap is lining the engine up, side to side. This is already done for us by using this mount so all you are really responsiblle for is the front to back alignment and making sure the tail housing on the transmission is lined up. I believe this mount has the engine a little higher than some other installation which doesn't allow you to set the engine as far back as a few people have but it also doesn't leave the oil pan well below the rest of the car. You will also have to cut the steering shaft with this mount as the mount and the shaft interfere. I haven't decided which route I will take to stiffen the chassis. I currently have a roll bar installed. This setup came with the pieces to make it a full cage but I didn't like the front portion and removed it. Climbing into a 240 with door bars and Corbeau Forza seats can be a challenge. I am leaning towards subframe connectors similar to what you described. I chose to go with the Summit brand of block hugger headers. They were inexpensive and I wasn't sure if I was going to have to modify them to work. I originally tried to get Flow Tech's ceramic coated headers but they are currently back ordered out a few months and I didn't want to pay for ceramic coating, cut the headers up and then have them recoated. I am going with a stock engine for now, as well. My latest concern is the hood clearance in the throttle body area with this mount. It looks like it should fit but it is going to be close. I will let you know after this weekend. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tom sixbey Posted August 21, 2003 Share Posted August 21, 2003 hey josh - that looks really good man! - and wow, that intake looks close! congrats on in swap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74.5 347Z Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 Josh, I was wondering if you have checked for hood clearance yet? I'm getting nervous because I also have ALSIL's mount and a JTR trans corssmember but I got the GT-40 intake and think it is slightly taller. Anyone know if there is a height difference between the two? The engine is still at the machine shop getting balenced and assembled so I will not be able to install for another week. I decided to do the 347 stroker kit and F303 cam first because it will be much easier to bolt heads on later. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted September 24, 2003 Author Share Posted September 24, 2003 Kaizoku, I don't know if there is a height difference between the GT-40 vs. the stock intake but I assume the GT-40 is taller as I have been told by friends with the GT-40 manifold that it is slightly taller. With that being said I do have a hood clearance problem. The stock upper intake clears the hood by quite a bit but the TPS sensor and breather tube that is on the top of the throttle body are the problem. The hood is high in the center but the sloped line of the hood interferes. You may or may not have this same problem based on how far back you set the engine. My interference was under 1/2" and the upper manifold is about 1/8" forward of the hood latch. You may be able to set the engine back a little further using the GT-40 manifold...I don't know. Other than this the swap has been very easy. I get people driving by turning around and coming back to look at the car because they recognize the intake manifold when the hood is open. The car doesn't even run yet! Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74.5 347Z Posted September 24, 2003 Share Posted September 24, 2003 Josh, That was not what i wanted to hear. How much clearance do you have between the pulley/balancer/oil pan and the crossmember? I was thinking that I may consider altering al's mount to lower the engine more. I have the later style hood with the louvers and don't really want to cut it up to put a cowl induction scoop. What are your ideas about resolving your clearance problem? Also, I think that if I can lower the mount 1", I shouldn't have to cut the steering shaft but that will not necessarily fix the intake clearance problem. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted September 24, 2003 Author Share Posted September 24, 2003 Mark, I think lowering the mounting points of Al's mount by 1" will give you the clearance you need. The balancer would still clear the rack at this point but the oil pan would be the next clearance issue. This wouldn't be a problem in my car as long as I pushed the engine towards the firewall a little more. Cutting the steering shaft is almost inevitable using Al's mount. The shaft wants to be placed right through the crossmember pretty much anywhere you can feasibly place it. I went ahead and had mine cut to add the U-joint. I installed the U-joint, had it welded and then pinned the joint to the shaft as well. I have been reassured that this modification is safe when done correctly (which I believe mine has) but I was nervous while thinking about adding the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74.5 347Z Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 Josh, You didn't say how much clearance you have but I am assuming you have at least 2". Right now I am looking at how much width the mount will loose if I cut the angle iron off and reweld it an inch or so lower. Looking at the mount on AL's website it appears that the mounting point on his crossmember is lower than the one he sent me but pictures can be deceiving. As far as cutting the steering column, I'm not worried because I got a spare. I had to take my flywheel to the machine shop this afternoon for them to complete the balancing. Everything should be assembled by the weekend and the Flowtech headers should be here within the next couple of days. I hope by this weekend that I will have 347 inch chunk of cast iron to sit in my empty hull. Any ideas on how you will get your hood to clear? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted September 25, 2003 Author Share Posted September 25, 2003 Mark, I have almost three inches of clearance between the balancer and crossmemeber. As you can see from the picture below spacing is substantial. As for solving my clearance issue, I may machine 1/2" off of my intake manifold mounting surfaces to bring the manilfod down. That should give me just enough clearance. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest buschj Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 I haven’t bolted Al’s mount in place yet because I am trying to resolve all of my clearance problems first. Here are some pictures with the motor as far forward as I can get it. If you want any pictures or measurements, I will be glad to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74.5 347Z Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 buschj, I am assuming that your intake clears the hood. if so you must have your engine further back than josh. It looks like I will have to wait until this weekend and get my motor back and sit it in to be able to see the clearance problems that you are describing. I got a set of flowtech headers today and will stop by the parts store tomorrow to get a set of engine mounts. I should have some pictures for you next week. The pictures that I take will probably be the same pictures you take only different colors. Have either one of you considered pulling your motor back out and making some changes? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshB 240Z Posted September 25, 2003 Author Share Posted September 25, 2003 From the pictures it appears that my engine is set back just a little further behind buschj's. I will have to take a few pictures from the same angles to be sure. Also, the 94-95 intake manifold is 1.5 inches lower than the earlier manifold. I have this manifold and installed it to test for hood clearance. My clearance issues on top were resolved but this manifold is not compatible with the earlier valve covers as well as the EGR system. In the end I chose to go back to the earlier manifold because I believe it will be easier to deal with the one point of interference rather than the several underneath the later manifold. Again, this is only an issue when installing the later manifold on the 87-93 engine with stock components. I have given some thought to removing the engine and adjusting the mount and I may still do that but for right now I would like to get the car running again and get the other issues that are bound to come up resolved. I like the mount where it is due to where it places the oil pan with regards to the undercarriage of the car. The oil pan is not the lowest point underneath the car and I am comfortable with that. My car is low and I have a history of catching the bottom on low bumps in the road or parking lots. buschj-where does you gear shift lever come through in the transmission tunnel? Did you have to trim back sheet metal? Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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