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Guest 1JZGTEVVTi

1JZGTE VVTi conversion

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Some great replies there thanks !!

 

Ben Ellis the previous owner recommended a HKS3040 as he (at HPI mag) made 580Hp and still made 1bar of boost by 3500rpm. I think I would be worried about other things breaking at that kind of HP though!

 

Is the blitz twin k3t kit a standalone (e.g. comes with manifold wastegates etc.) or a bolt on like the K1s? I planning to keep stock looking not only because of the custom pipework, but also to keep the insurance man at bay :wink:

 

great to hear you tried out the hybrids tho majik, hope someone in the UK gets them dynod soon!

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Guest 1JZGTEVVTi

More plumbing than a Super Mario game. Now I'm gonna go back on record to see how many pipes where in Super Mario Bros. for the NES. Looks like I'm probably gonna get a custom Y-pipe and most likely a small or medium sized single with, just as majik said, no lag so it feels like the car is supercharged. Now all I gotta do is find all of the stuff and buy it.

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Guest 1JZGTEVVTi

Should I go witha half cut from a soarer or 2.5 liter Supra, or just go with the individual engine? I'm guessing the half cut would be better, and if I do get one, where is the best place, or just where can I get a half cut?

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Guest CR8Z

I just recently bought a 1JZ engine with 5 speed transmission. I'm going to put it into a 78 280Z. I was wondering if someone had some info on bolting this motor and transmission into the vehicle? Also if anyone has information about wiring up these engines?

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Wiring fun stuff. The 1jz harness is pretty complicated, so its a ton of fun. I would suggest to make life as easy as possible, to hook up all aftermarket gauges to it, but there is a sensor on the back of the tachometer that will come with the clip you will have to wire in somehow. Also, buy a supra clip, no traction control or added "fun stuff" to further complicate matter, its the raw version of the motor, which is really what you are after. No need for a clip unless you just want a stock Ic, Radiator, etc etc.. because all that will have to be custom done anyhow, might as well buy a nice frount mount core and a good radiator., as long as you have the Ignitor, motor, tranny, ecu, harness,map sensor, you are good to go. Cant think of anything else really, but you can use a 2jz map sensor if you have some sort of a/f tuner. the mounts shouldnt be too hard to make. I made a cradle and a tranny mount for my set-up which is almost identicle to the 1jz ones, except i used pre 89 supra motor mounts, which are a little different than 89+ (fluid filled).

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Guest CR8Z

What exactly does this sensor do? I have heard of other vehicles that will not start unless the tach gets a reading. Is this the same kind of sensor that you're talking about? What kind of gauges are you using? Did they pretty much just plug up to the existing harness or was there cutting and splicing?

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some japanese cars have three types of fuel/ignition cut as to the 2 we are used too, we are used to a speed cut (when a speed limiter is active) and a Boost Cut ( when boost creep too high). The Japanese car has a Tach cut (the name me and friends give it) which as far as we can tell, matches up the rpm point to a given amount of boost, a/f ratio, fuel delivery etc.. if any of these points are off, the car wont rev past 3000ish rpms. Some people doing the 1jz swap in to supras forget to swap the tach, therefore no signal is scene, and the ecu cuts ignition (the biggest mistake made in the swap). The only ways to get rid of it as far i know is to a) use a standalone/aftermarket ECU or B) just use the Guts of the 1jz tach. ITs not a constant 12v or whatever sensor, it works on a range. There would be some cutting and splicing involved, but not too terribly much. mostly you would just have to lengthen the stock wiring harness, but the entire 1jz harness is made factory with sheilded cable, so it becomes quite a pain to re-do, as you cant just splice in 3 inches of wire.

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The engine in my car was from a supra, but went aftermarket ECU straight off.. I think its a better option in the long run, especially if you are be doing mods on a gradual basis like I plan on doing... you can then just keep tuning with what you have..

 

I think it is worth doing the front mount intercooler decent exhaust etc. whilst you're at it too. I just wish they'd done the Y-pipe on my engine before they fitted it. I heard its a bit of a job to get the standard one off, is this true majik?

 

I think blkmgk still hosts the article on my car, some useful info about mounts in it. http://www.blkmgk.com Would have been easier to use stock (R154) tranny though IMO.

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no way!!!!!!!!!!!!

gotta see it!

 

I was thinking that there must be a vid of my car out there.. its got a couple of 'drift tengoku' stickers on it so thought could be on one of them.. is it a jap or aussie vid? where can I get it??? :-D:-D

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Definatly Aussie, its a purple box, its called Serious Performance 5 then it says australias best selling hi tech fast car video. pictures on front of a rotary wagon thats green, a crazy looking suzuki turbo, and the jun evo 5. looks like it is a series, serious performance one and 2 it says fours and rotaries real big under them, then it starts with big numbers next to serious performance... i dont know if any of this will sound familiar, seems to me it should be a pretty well known aussie video series, which means it should definatly be available in the uk.

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Im not expert on the 1JZVVTi, but I think that one of the main obstacles is the wiring. From what I hear it is a bit more complex than the normal 1JZ.

 

I have a 1JZ sitting in my garage that I am putting in my 260Z. Due to lack of funds and time though, the furthurst I've gotten with the project is pulling the L28 out and putting a new harness on the 1JZ :(

 

Hopefully in a month or so I should be able to get stuck into it.

 

PhilUK,

try http://www.toymods.org.au they have the most knowledgable ppl (who speak english anyway) in regards to 1JZ and toyo motors in general.

 

btw Phil...your engine mounts....I would love to get some pics of them :)

 

I talked to rocco's some time ago, but they couldnt make me a set, (my car is in Qld, they are in NSW), so pics of your mounts would really help my project along :)

 

Cheers!

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Guest 1JZGTEVVTi

Hey Majik, where did you get your 1JZ, and what did you pay for it. I'm trying to find the best price, and mostly I'm picking up somewehre in the $3500 dollar range. It can be half cut or not, I dont really care at this point.

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Guest 1JZGTEVVTi

I figured JARCO was the way to go, now I only have a few things to do, like locate a rolling chassis Z, and save up enough for the clip. By the way, talking about a rolling chassis Z, does anyone know where I could find one, besides on this website? I'm gonna guess EBAY, but if anyone knows a company that sells rolling chassis it would be appreciated. I'm not looking for high quality bodywork either, just no rust HOLES. Rust is no big deal, but I'd like to find one without underbody rust, and it can have body rust, as long as it is surface rust.

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Got a reply from Ben, he said it appeared briefly in Serious Performance 5 when he took it to Wakefield Park Raceway. He said at the time it had no LSD and the shocks were stuffed, so it was wheel spinning and bouncing its way around the track, but it was still about the fastest thing there. He said he was breezing by the GT-Rs on the straight! :2thumbs:

 

Serious Business were apparently going to do a more involved feature on the car, but the opportunity never came up. oh well...

 

waiting impatiently for the vid now!

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awesome, yah like i said, its only in there for a second. I may e-mail you in a few days, if Ben actually built the car, id love to pick his brain about it since im going to be dropping a pretty sick 1jz in mine, although im sure that wont be till a year or so from now, i need to get the rest of the car straight. but it would be nice to get some info.

 

Im sure it did fly by most everything, i dont see why it wouldnt, light car with good suspension geometries and a power band thats lightning quick and smooth plus make really nice power... I dont even really have to sell it, im doing it.

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Rocco's performance (in Sydney) actually did most of the work on the car.

 

Glad to hear you've got plans for a 1JZ :-) I still cop hell from my zed buddies about doing the transplant...but its gonna be worth it in the end :-D

 

 

awesome' date=' yah like i said, its only in there for a second. I may e-mail you in a few days, if Ben actually built the car, id love to pick his brain about it since im going to be dropping a pretty sick 1jz in mine, although im sure that wont be till a year or so from now, i need to get the rest of the car straight. but it would be nice to get some info.

 

Im sure it did fly by most everything, i dont see why it wouldnt, light car with good suspension geometries and a power band thats lightning quick and smooth plus make really nice power... I dont even really have to sell it, im doing it.[/quote']

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Guest CHUVY

Hi i'm roughly new and i found this on google. Majik i'm planning on buying an sc soon and was roughly considering a 2jz until i read on 2jzswap.com that they were planning on putting a 1jzgte vvti into an rx7. Though i have read that you disagree with the vvti i would like to further discuss the jz motor if possible. if this is a possibility please let me know, thanx.

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Guest daboom

I would just like clear up and clarify a few things stated earlier on. Firstly the VVT-i and standard 1JZ engine blocks are identical. the only difference is how the head is cast, and even that is nearly identical. the first and main difference is the addition of an oil pressure valve that can control the advance or retardation of the timing by using a worm gear connected to the cam shaft. (hence the reason why you can't put aftermarket camshafts and cam gears on the INTAKE side only, they can be put on the exhaust side). and secondly, the turbo is not a CT26, it is infact a highly revised version of the Celica GT-Four and Turbo MR2 turbo, of which being a CT-20. they have strengthened the internals of the turbo, although it is still ceramic coated, and sleeve bearing, i have had my turbo running at 19 PSI, however it does lose its effency at around 15 PSI. The main thing to upgrade if you are going to be keeping the car stock is a Tomei Expreme manifold, which is a direct replacement for the factory turbo, and does make torque come on approximately 200 or so RPM lower. to my soarer running an R154 and VVT-i system, i have cracked 240rwHP at 13PSI. the only mods i have done are Exhaust (4" from turbo into 2 3" pipes after the cat), pod filter and front mount. that is it. hope i have helped and clarifed a few things.

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