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zredbaron

NA 3.1L=>head & camshaft questions. No shortcuts, max

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zredbaron    6
Posted (edited)

Still here, though I'm rather fatigued.

 

I'll spare the list of challenges, I really don't care to write them out. Drilling through the clutch fork, under the car, took the cake last month, for sure. Wow, that's the hardest metal I've ever had the frustration to modify.

 

I achieved driving the car onto the trailer under it's own power... and much has fallen apart since that moment. Literally 2 hours later, and < 1 mile from my road-test playground, my truck engine gave out after 286,000 miles.

 

I've since had a series of challenges getting a crate motor delivered. Seriously. I traveled out of country, which didn't help either.

 

I had to delay delivery of my Z to the fab shop in Portland for two reasons... tow logistics, and now, spontaneously, I am having electrical issues in my Z. Nothing has been touched! Could be ignition or relays, I suppose, but it's odd behavior. Flashers and fuel pump click on and off, as do most electrical loads, with the key out of the ignition. No troubleshooting yet -- I disconnected the battery and went and had a drink.

 

But hey, I drove it 10 feet.... progress is progress. Even if it's about as frustrating as I've ever experienced.

 

https://youtu.be/wKsXf-ihOc4

Edited by zredbaron

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ryant67    6

Sometimes you just gotta focus on the positives.  The new engine is in and running, no issues  with it either, which is a huge step!  

So far as the electrical issues, I'd check your grounds.  It's odd that multiple electrical systems would be misbehaving all of a sudden.  You are running one of those fancy lithium batteries too I believe, right?  They can be a real pain when they have been discharged.  I'd also check that, or try throwing your truck battery in to see what happens.  Hope it's not the battery though, those suckers are EXPENSIVE.  

Onwards and upwards!

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zredbaron    6
Posted (edited)

Thanks fellas.

 

I delivered the car to an electrical specialist. Turns out alternator is fried, so far, which I'm almost certain was my fault for a brief moment while assembling the engine. Weird that it was functional for "a while" and then spontaneously gave out while unattended? Electrons are quirky critters.

 

I have no reason to suspect my Li battery. Agreed, even an in-depth electrical repair will be less costly than simply replacing the battery! Haha. A ridiculous statement, now that I type it.

 

My exhaust / strut bar fabrication and corner balance appointment in Portland is pushed back to July 28, with a pickup and chassis dyno on Aug 11.

 

You're right. The engine is still solid. And I find myself more and more appreciative for the well-reputed engine dyno break-in... thanks Joe and Arnie!

 

Projected first local autocross event will be September 9-10. (They do 4 events in 2 days here!? Wow. Sand and Sage Sports Car Club.) Jon, do you have any events in the Seattle area in August? It's almost time...  B)

Edited by zredbaron
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JMortensen    235

 

Projected first local autocross event will be September 9-10. (They do 4 events in 2 days here!? Wow. Sand and Sage Sports Car Club.) Jon, do you have any events in the Seattle area in August? It's almost time...  B)

I'm sure there are a bunch. You really want to tow it all the way over here? I can come to you if you're looking for a co-driver / moral support. I don't think I'm going to get mine running again this year. Feel like I'm stuck in neutral for 2 years now and can't move.

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zredbaron    6

Success!

 

After many obstacles... I have successfully road tested my Z and deem it ready for suspension tune and chassis dyno.

 

This Friday I will deliver the car to PSI in Portland for exhaust, strut bars, alignment and corner balance.

 

Aug 11th is my appointment on the chassis dyno!

 

Untuned road-test media attached!

 

Huge thank you to all contributors, most notably Joe Harlan and Jon Mortensen. Thank you all!

 

 

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Rev Limit.mov

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zredbaron    6
Posted (edited)

Thanks!

 

Forgot to mention that my electrical issues were twofold.... a fried alternator and a fried hazard switch / pigtail harness. Replacing the alternator and removing the switch + harness restored the electrical system.

 

Jon, I'm thinking I might attend the Saturday practice event and Sunday race in Shelton on Aug 12-13 (Western WA SCC).

Edited by zredbaron

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zredbaron    6
Posted (edited)

Chassis dyno and fabrication follow-up from this past weekend.

 

Picked up my car from Portland Speed Industries in Portland, OR. Great shop for fabrication and setup needs! They also have a chassis dyno, so for me, it was a one-stop trip to Portland.

 

Phenomenal work on the 3" exhaust. They mounted the muffler in the transmission tunnel. Not sure why I didn't take a good picture of the muffler itself.

 

The strut bars were what I was looking for, too. I didn't initially imagine the assymetrical shape of the front brace, but after getting used to it, I really like the fabricator's approach. Nice and tight, too.

 

The chassis dyno experience wasn't what we were hoping for. Joe came to help with the tune, and Jon Mortensen came down from Seattle again to see "carb/dyno tuning done efficiently."

 

Unfortunately, the shop had double-booked the dyno and didn't tell me / us. Once my car was on the dyno, the shop manager simply needed help and couldn't be in two places at once. We could have performed our pulls in under 90 mins had he or a tech been at our disposal. Such is life.

 

As for the car... we didn't have enough jets to tune it. The shame! LOL. 65F8 idles were too small for a proper transition. The engine kept leaning out once the cam kicked in above 5000, and we aborted several runs. 185 mains were the biggest I had, and they weren't having much effect. We tossed in the smallest air correctors I had, 145, and surprisingly that dropped us into the operable AFR and we completed a pull.

 

264 whp, 225 ft-lbs at 6300 so far, with a nice, flat torque curve. Once it gets going! Haha, ugh. Graph attached.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9__Kb_ZBIpY

 

A fantastic start considering the main jets aren't even correct, so nothing else can actually be dialed in, including final timing.

 

I've since reduced the chokes to 38mm from 40mm and performed a road test. Per my wideband O2 sensor, it brought the AFR back in line, no sweat. So... I'll just have to do another chassis dyno for a final tune once I have a sufficient range of jets available.

 

Chassis dyno follow-up will occur within 30 days.

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Edited by zredbaron
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jhm    116

Looking good, as always, Mark!  Curious what parts you used for your CV axles....specifically, which CV joints and what size axle?  I'm about to do the same mod on my '73.  

 

Thx, and keep the updates coming!

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ryant67    6

It's always a treat reading updates on your build. Those are some strong numbers already, with room for even more power with some extra jetting tweaks. Good stuff! Tidy work on the exhaust line. I'm surprised you're only running what looks like an 18" long 5" round muffler - must really scream at WOT!! The strut bracing looks great too.

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zredbaron    6
Posted (edited)

Thank you, gentlemen!

 

John -- the CV axles are from Wolf Creek Racing, and they are a great product. Great to see you're still out there!

 

Ryan -- the muffler is 14" long, and is a 4" diameter (Magnaflow 14419). The "race" muffler option was 6" diameter and 6" long (Magnaflow 14159). Longer mufflers are quieter, despite how thin the first option is. Personally I don't think it's all that loud, I think the muffler does a great job and the exhaust has very little resonance. That said, many of the clubs here in WA have a 96 dB sound limit, so I guess I'll find out one way or the other! I'm close, no doubt. There's room for a 2nd muffler downstream should it come to that.

 

I'm a huge fan of Magnaflow straight-through mufflers. Wonderful, rich tones. I first installed one on my 240Z in 2004. Liked it so much I run dual Magnaflow exhaust on my truck, too.

Edited by zredbaron
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