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SR20DET swap vs. L28ET swap


Chris-280ZX

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Having second thoughts about the SR20DET swap (partly because no one seem so to really want to do this swap for me). I've taken a look at the costs of both swaps, and for some reason it seems that I can get more bang for my buck with the L28ET swap. Take a look:

 

S13 SR20DET - roughly $2K for front clip

Greddy VSPL Front Mount intercooler - $750

Walbro 255 fuel pump - $125

GReddy 3" Downpipe - $150

HKS SSQV BOV - $215

Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller - $325

3" Custom Exhaust - $250

Clutch - $360

Around $2K for install

Around 900 in custom fab work

Total (roughly): $6800

200 lbs. in weight reduction (engine weighs less)

Producing around 260 rwhp

 

L28ET - $1795 (remanufactured, I just don't feel like rebuilding)

Turbo - GT32 or GT25R from http://www.speedshopthagard.com/ - 700 to 1000

Same intercooler, fuel pump, BOV, and Boost Controller - $1415

Downpipe - ? I'm guessing custom 3" for around 150-ish

Engine management - ? could try to stay stock at first? or...ideas?

Fuel rail(JSK) w/ 450cc injectors(RC engineering) - $640

Bigger throttle body - $235

Already have fairly new exhaust and clutch - free

Around $1000 to $1500 for install

Total(very roughly): $6300

No weight reduction

Producing...well...I have no idea, but more than 260rwhp.

 

Thoughts? Ideas? Factors I've forgotten? I want to use this setup for autocross eventually. I know the weight/setup of the SR20DET would be idea for this, but the bang for the buck with the L28ET is so enticing and I think I have someone who would be willing to do the work for me.

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You arent going to be able to tune 450cc injectors with the stock ecu. If your looking for extra fuel on a budget get an hks aic they are one of the best and can be had for 200 bucks on ebay. Otherwise add 1000 for fuel management. Id say rent a hoist and install it yourself or see if there is a board memeber close to help a little. Also I think you can get an rb 25 for not much more then the sr20 and that would definatly be more bang for the buck

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Pallnet sells 60mm TB kits for a fraction of the cost you were looking at . He also has great deals on billet Fuel rails with FP gauges .. With the mods you have listed you could make well over 300rwhp.. go with a SDS or haltec if you have the money for it.. or you could go with Megasquirt and save 6-800 bucks.

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wigen,

 

Who is this Pallnet that you speak of? Have a website by any chance?

 

So we're looking at about a grand more with an aftermarket ECU for the L28ET swap. This still doesn't answer the question of...which would you do?

 

Topless,

 

The whole problem is finding someone to do it. I don't have the time/no how/tools to pull off any swap. And no shops in my area seem to have reasonable prices on swaps. Wish I could pack up and move to Cali.

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Chris ,I personnaly would go with the L28et swap.. and well, have.. :D

Pallnet is a good friend of mine AKA Peter Allnet. he makes 60mm TB kits and nice fuel rails.. both Oring and Barbed type among other things.. Here is a link to his site. http://groups.msn.com/pallnet/differentfuelrails.msnw?albumlist=2

His email is pallnet@hotmail.com

Give him a shout he can help out with alot of things as well..

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  • 3 weeks later...

Go L28et its over documented and there will always be help for you. If you could get the motor put together (for whatever that would cost) you could make a friend with a backyard mechanic and he will help you swap it in for the cost of a 6 pack of beer. I've gotten Thousands of $$$ worth of work done on my car from 4 diff guys for beer. In fact none of them would take $ from me when I offered it. Its extremely easy to bolt in. If you attempt this with an sr20 your friends will become discouraged and give up on you. I was in the exact same position as you, and was contemplating an RB25. That would have been the worst decision of my life. My current setup will be good for easy 400hp once I get a stand alone, and thats all my rearend could take. BTW you will learn a hell of a lot by watching the process as I did, and you won't feel like an idiot at car shows when people ask about your setup as I used to with my NA setup that I bought with the car. Now I feel proud that I had my hand in every step up the process on this swap and feel a lot more pride for my car. Well thats all. Don't wanna break Bastaad's record.

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I realize Talahassee is not close to Tampa, but there are some shops that do this down there. They do great work, and I wish I was over there to get my swap done.

 

Go to the Tampa Racing forum and search for the 240z SR20DET swap. You will see what I mean.

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Here is few realistic prices:

 

L28ET - Good motor from junkyard with wiring $700 MAX

Turbo - Stock good for almost 300 rwhp or keep it simple t3/t4 from James about $700 max.

Same intercooler, fuel pump, BOV, and Boost Controller - boost controler manual from ebay $20, inline fuel pump like t-rex or walboro is around $110, nice i/c off ebay is $300, couplers and clamps $50 (no t-bolt clamps just regular ones), nice used BOV is about $120, 2.25" piping from jegs is about $80 max.

Downpipe - done right by shop will be most likely about $150-$250.

Engine management - Stock to begin with.

Fuel rail(JSK) w/ 450cc injectors(RC engineering) - Rail is about $100 and svo 360cc injectors are about $100 for six and few more $ to get them cleaned up or 440's from mk3 turbo supra which are also dime a dozen.

Bigger throttle body - spacer and 60mm t/b around $150 Max

Already have fairly new exhaust and clutch - Keep stock tranny with l28t will work just fine + no work on driveshaft.

Install- man damn thing bolts right in get cherry picker and one buddy to give you hand (no rocket scientist required :D ) and you can get old motor out and new one in in one afthernoon. Then if you are not good with electronics you can spend few bucks and get someone to help you out but that also is way too simple (buddy got it done with guy helping him over the PHONE) plus there is more than one guy on this site that can guide you through.

 

In your case i would stick with l28t it would save you some serious $$$. How far do you stay from James Thagard, ScottieGnz, Rick (speedster sp). Those guys really know their stuff and they all have alot of experience with l6's plus James is excelent fabricator :wink: of anything custom.

 

Hope that helps you out some.

 

Ivan

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest bastaad525
Don't wanna break Bastaad's record.

 

 

:D ROFL I almost missed this one entirely... don't usually check this area of the forum. Good lord my rep is getting too big 'round here...

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the thing is, you wont be needing a front clip man!!

 

just get a motor set with some cut wires, in the long run i'tll be cheaper

 

1. you have to make custom mounts

2. you're going to probably have to do a custom harness...ie., megasquirt

3. the engine is already out of the clip

4. its cheaper!

 

 

i still say that the l28 would be a better swap just because its more straightofrward and will do anything you want it to.

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  • 9 months later...

Straight six all the way. A z must rumble and growl. SR does sound nice, but it's not the same. We all know the glorious sounds of the L6.

 

I've debated your questions myself....If you must have an SR fine, I would save money by dropping in the L28ET, using the money you saved to build the rest of the car. I mean, I don't know the condition of your car....but we all have a dream spec sheet in our minds.

 

Just pass some time with a well thought out simple round of mods on the L6....you'll have a better car in the end...And when you're ready, change to some modern nissan motor, if you must.

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Agree with Ivan.

 

First, wean yourself off the Greedy and HK$ kick. For your HP goal you do not need a $1000 turbo, expensive Greedy I/C, BOV and boost controller. Invest your money in a set of injs and engine management system. Thanks to eBay, the cost of I/Cs have come way down, a T3/T04 is all you need, if you go with the SDS, a 1G DSM vented to the atmo is all you need and scrap the expensive boost contollers and make the rod adjustable in conjunction with a decent bleeder system. I just gave you the formula I used to make 300hp except I used the stock turbo.

 

There are enough people here doing exactly that so no lack of help.

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Guest nitr0

Theres no replacement for displacement.....

 

The SR20DET is a nice motor no doubt, but for the same money you could probably use a "less modified" L28ET and get the same power as everyone else has said. If i was in the states i'de use the L28, its 2.8L and turbo, good enough for an older car, however in australia we never got the L28ET so i'm opting to do an RB25DET conversion, or RB30ET, they are everywhere here.

 

Go the L28ET....

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My brother is swapping an S13 Sr20Det into his 1600, i think stock this bugger pumps out about 150kw at the flywheel, and will a decent exhaust, larger intercooler lots more power is possible, and he is always going on about how well supported this little engine is - so so so many people have used this engine is so so so many different cars,

And the s13 head is supposed to be the best flowing out of all the Sr20's, the S14 and S15 had VVTI (it may have only been the S15's) but the S13 Sr20 is supposed to have the best head,

 

If i were me, it would ditch the L28 for sure and put the Sr20 in, its an all alloy block, has double overhead camshaft and is such a strong little bugger,

 

It seems to install this engine into the zed you would mount it completely behind the crossmember and weld braces to the chassis rails and connect up the engine that'a'way, or use engine plates of some sort,

 

Check this out mate,

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6738&cat=500&page=2

 

Im not 100% certain about this bloke and what he evetually ended up doing in regards to engine mounts but it looks as if hes used engine plates and connected them to the front of the block,

 

And most of the sh#t the 1600 guys have to do to complete there conversions could be adapted to help you sort through converting this engine into your Zed, like speedo cable............etc,

 

www.ozdat.com/forum

 

Has a heap of stuff in regards to folks swapping sr20's into 1600's

 

lots of support of this forum for the l28 and lots of folks have done lots of things to them, but there is soooooooo much info about the sr20, and there is enormous aftermarket support for this engine,

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Guest nitr0

Engine Market Capacity Turbo KW (HP) Nm (f/lb)

S13 SR20DET Japan 2.0 Yes 101 (135) 240

S15 SR20DE Japan 2.0 No Manual: 121 (162)

Auto: 118 (158) 175 ()

 

from http://www.200sx.org/faq_2.html

 

No where near 150kw... Also, the S13 SR20 is the redtop, and the S15 is a black top which is the better head (i'm pretty sure), however its obvious that the S15 motor is better. I've driven a few cars with SR20's, including S13 silvia's and they are only just as good as my 23 year old L28.

 

Also, you are going to be missing 2 cylinders which is very handy with larger cars, thats why GZ Supra's/Soarers (1GZ) and R32 Skylines (RB20) had 6cyl 2L motors. I also considered this swap to reduce weight(and an RB20DET), but my boss talked me into an RB25DET on the basis that you should use a motor of similar size or larger on a sports/touring style car, not a motor that was produced for a girls run around car.

 

The SR20DET conversion into a 1600 sounds like a prefect conversion

1.6L N/A -> 2.0L Turbo

 

but into a 280zx

2.8L N/A -> 2.0L Turbo

 

I'de go the L28

2.8L N/A -> 2.8L Turbo

 

 

Anyway, i hope you dont ruin your zed.....

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Wow, i really thought these little motors put out more than that stock,

 

From what ive heard the s13 sr20 is supposed to have the best flowing head, but im sure you get in there and make the s15 sr20 head flow as good or maybe even better than the s13 sr20 head and it does have VVTI,

 

"however its obvious that the S15 motor is better"

 

Never said it wasnt mate, just from what ive been told, in stock form, the s13 head flows better,

 

Check this out,

http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3870&highlight=sr20+dyno

 

First post spells it out,

 

Did anyone see the AMMRR Stanza with the SR20 at Adelaide Extreme horsepower show????? icon_question.gif

 

It makes 440 rwkw with the standard S13 plenium and TB!!! icon_eek.gificon_eek.gif

This should be a slap in the face for anyone who changes either of these components!! icon_redface.gificon_redface.gif

And it still uses the standard rods and crank

 

You seem like a fairly knowledgeable follow or atleast your boss does, Can you do this with an L28 using the stock Crank/rods/plemum and throttle body???

 

"but my boss talked me into an RB25DET on the basis that you should use a motor of similar size or larger on a sports/touring style car, not a motor that was produced for a girls run around car. "

 

mmmmmmmmm............the Sr20 was an engine designed as an engine to go in "girls run around cars" - what the f#ck???

 

"anyway i hope you dont ruin your zed............."

Hows he going to do this mate, By putting in an Sr20 or something really crazy like a 350chevy???

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If you care about weight go SR20det. Lighter, all things being equal, = better handling which will help on the autocross course.

 

If you care about anything else go L28t. The added displacement will help you with more torque at lower rpm's which is beneficial in autocross and it's a much simpler swap especially if you don't do your own work.

 

Anthony

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

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