Jump to content
HybridZ

Vh45de questions.


Guest TurboDemon

Recommended Posts

Z32 rear suspension is an option but honestly I think it's more work than most people are willing to do. I would say at least get the engine in and running before you decide to swap suspensions.

 

Z31 NA diffs tend to break easy as do the half shafts. If you can get a hold of a 87-89 CLSD or 88SS VLSD you are the best off. 84-86 Turbo open diff would probably be stronger than the NA diff too.

 

Basically stick with the z31 parts because they will bolt in. Everything else is just a pain in the butt and since the internals are basically all the same its not worth it in my eyes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dang mtcookson! Looks like you've done your research. But then I noticed you have a '450'Z in your garage. Thanks for the info too, I really appreciate it. It gives me incentive to get cracking on this project sooner than later.

 

Eric, yeah I know what you're saying. I really don't like how the Z31 has negative camber like that. It may be good if you take it drifting, but for me I go through tires too easily when it's like that. I know there's a make-shift fix for that, cutting a slot and using a bolt on the arms, but then I noticed someone else do this: http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=55042

They have parts from a 240SX and Z32 subframe in there, and are now able to use Z32 rotors and calipers. Although I'm not sure what the benefit is. I heard the Z32 has an adjustable rear setup. Is that a plus to have?

 

Stinky, I have a Z31 diff and half shafts I pulled from a wreckers earlier this year, but not sure if it's CLSD or VLSD. Is there numbering on there to say so? I can get a picture of it. All I know is the rear has fins on it, and the drain plug is at the base, so I presume this is a turbo diff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, I have another question. I'm not readily able to get access to a VH45, so I was wondering if anyone's checked the motor mounts for these motors. I need to find out if it's in any way compatible with the Z31. Anyone has the lowdown on the mounts, if I can use them, or if I would need custom ones made up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators
VH45DE had VVT from 90-96. In 1997 They went to a VH41DE, which lacked VVT.

 

 

FWIW, Nissan dropped the VVT in ’96, (my assumption is OBD-II?). Any how, the VVT was only offered ’90-’95. My ’96 Q-45 does not have the VVT.

As for the non VVT ’96 powerband, I did run my Q on the Dyno at “Torque Freaks” 2 years back, there is a distinct power band, comes on around 4000 RPM and pulls like mad. Below that it is a bit soft. I’m not sure if I still have the dyno sheet but if memory serves, my bone stock ’96 Q put 234 HP to the wheels. If I find that dyno sheet, I’ll post it for ya guys…

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i can get some VH45DE's at a good price.. PM if your interested!.

now.. how can i find out if its a 90 model engine? anything visual i can see and tell or no?

there all out of the cars and etc.

 

mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

We are looking to build a CA legal swap for the 240SX, and are using the VH45. As of right now, the PLAN is to use the Z33/G35 6sp. We're getting the adapter plate made right now, but unfortunately, the guy's really busy. We don't expect the finished product (just the adapter plate set) untill mid~late Feb.

 

On a side note about the ECU, we've been talking to some guys at @em, and SEEM to be getting positive results about getting a plug-n-play EMS made for the Q motor. This will definately make the future brighter for ppl contemplating the VH swap in the future.

 

As I mentioned earlier, this is still in the product planning/R&D stage, so we're not sure about the EMS portion, but the adapter plate is a definate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Does anybody on this list live in Au, Nz or Japan? I'm curious to know if the VH45DE engine was ofered in any vehicles other then the Q45? In other words are there any other oil pan/pickup configurations available for this engine?

Just looking...............

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I will be at the point of trying to start the engine in the car soon.Some time ago I bought what was supposed to be a complete 92 Q45 factory shop manual. After I got it I realized that it was missing the engine chapters and the last pages which have the electrical pull outs! Isn't Ebay great!

I have since downloaded the manual for a 94 Q45. Does anyone know how different the wiring would be on for these 2 years? How accurate would the 94 wiring diagram be if used on a 92 Q45?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Guest sack face

ive just signed up to this forum, im from NZ and are currently fitting a VH45 to my nissan ute with twin Garret ball bearing turbos, aftermarket ECU and will be running the factory auto trans.

Will keep you updated with the progress, will have it running in a few months

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest sack face

Will be leaving the whole engine stock, except ill change the cam chain guides and extend the keyway on the crankshaft to the oil pump drive.

 

Other than that the engine will not be opened.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was also wondering about the lack positve drive for the oil pump. The fact that is seems to only be a fricton drive is rather unusual. But in reality the amount of torque required to get that sporcket to spin after you tighten up the crank pulley would be more then adequete to drive an oil pump. never heard of oil pump drive failures on the NICO site.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest sack face
I was also wondering about the lack positve drive for the oil pump. The fact that is seems to only be a fricton drive is rather unusual. But in reality the amount of torque required to get that sporcket to spin after you tighten up the crank pulley would be more then adequete to drive an oil pump. never heard of oil pump drive failures on the NICO site.

 

I have heard of 2 engines with oil pump failures due to the front crank pulley bolt comming loose, im guessing someone has had the engine apart (cam chain tensioners maybe) and not done the bolt up tighly, thus in turn causing the oil drive sprocket to work loose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sack face, What part of NZ are you in? There is a local guy here , Hawkes bay, that is making adapters to mount toyota five speeds behind your engine. Last time I was in his w/shop he was doing a twin turbo set like yours for drifting. Guy is pretty smart and made lots of cool stuff.

 

Douglas

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As long as you torque the crank pulley bolt to spec you won't need to extend the keyway at all. I can't remember the reason but someone on NICO was saying it was designed that way for a reason. I'll have to search NICO a bit to find that reason though. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...