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what ecu's work best


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I run a LinkPlus G3 on my skyline,

and Autronic smc on my 280Z.

 

I LOVE the LinkPlus, it has

- easy to understand software

- plug and play installation, the map-sensor connects to the maf wiring

- has plenty of extra in and out connections,

meaning, if I want an extra function, it is ready for it. (boostcontrol etc)

- sequential, if that means something for anybody

and a lot of other things.

I also have a "displayLink", it logs everything, and shows ALL data from the ecu.

link1.jpg

link4.jpg

 

The Autronic smc is old now, but runs my Z perfect.

It does not have much extra functions, and the software is not too good.

But, it does have perfect control on my engine.

 

I would never even think of piggy back.

Too much work, for too little engine control, waste of money.

I would advice people who want a new ecu,

to spend a lot of time on the net,

see whats available,

look for pricing (not the most important thing!!!).

And think of who has to do the mapping.

If you have someone other to do it, ask what system they know,

if you are doing it self, download some software and see if you understand it,

and if it`s easy to work with.

And, if you think of adding more to your car later,

can the ecu handle it.

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Its hard to beat the PowerFC for its ease of installation and use. When paired with the FC Datalog-it, it in my opinion is the best combination, and most cost effective solution for your application. However, prices have gone since the PFC for the RB25 was discontinued.

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I have a haltech and i love it on my rb25, but i had to mod somethings to work right with my e6k since it was a bit old. I had it running my l28 so i just opted to keep it and use it on the rb which is now working like a charm. I wouldnt go piggy back system either standalone of any kind is much much better imo

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I use the microtech lt12s with the x6 ignition pack and wideband. I like the "3d" mode where you can tune at 500 rpm intervals for load (boost) and injector cycle. the system extrapolates between the RPM levels.

 

Fairly easy to get working and uses the stock CAS, temp sensors, tps etc.

 

My only complaint would be service - but if you are purchasing the system through Microtech USA I suspect the service would be fine.

 

Q

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Well I certainly don't think I'll have the energy to take my car into a shop to have the ems set up for me--it would probably only be worth doing if I could set it all up myself. I guess an expert with a dyno could work a few kinks out after if it proves impossible to smoothen out, but ideally, plug and play should mean just that. If the systems you guys speak of hook up to a laptop and have solid software written in english, then I'd be game for spending a weekend figuring it out and fine tuning everything. I guess I could always go megasquirt and literally build the thing myself--screw the middleman! :P

 

...When I finally get to exhaust I'll be taking everyone's opinions on what route to go, because I really have no idea and I don't want to spend all this time and money to end up with something that sounds pathetic or anything. 3" exhaust would be about the sum of the two turbo outlet sizes, but I don't have an opinion on single versus dual yet. There's not a whole lot of room down there either. I guess the idea is to unleash the true sound of the rb, somewhere in the middle of a scale of 1-100, 1 being rat rod and 100 being fart can. :D

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You mean save the money on buying a new ems and instead invest in getting the current one professionally tuned? I have no idea how much that would cost, but how effective is it? I'm assuming that special equipment not easily available in the states would be needed--I've heard that these ecu's aren't diagnostics etc. friendly as others since they weren't ever officially imported...

 

The other option I looked at was buying an rb26 ecu already tuned by one of the sticker companies like mines or something, but those sure aren't cheap!

 

What are the chances that I can download a prom and it will be good to go? Man I sure with it was like in the movies where I could hack in from my cell phone and recode the ecu to run twice as efficiently by the time I land, because also I was in a plane while doing so.

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In Japan back in the day you could take a skyline in and get it rom tuned on a dyno for about 50000 yen ( 500 bux) As soon as you changed anything you would have to get it changed again.

 

 

As long as you built it the way it was going to stay you were ok..... My suggestions would be go with a standalone. The plug and play computers are usually designed for the car the engine was in so wiring knowledge and know-how is necessary.

 

A standalone that uses it own sensors like halteck, SDS ECT is what I recommend every day of the week.

 

With that said im using the HKS Vpro. At this point I'm very impressed with its capabilities. Only one draw back is it has to be tuned by a trained HKS tech. For that reason I would not recommend it to anyone unless you have access to one and are friends :>

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You mean save the money on buying a new ems and instead invest in getting the current one professionally tuned? I have no idea how much that would cost, but how effective is it? I'm assuming that special equipment not easily available in the states would be needed--I've heard that these ecu's aren't diagnostics etc. friendly as others since they weren't ever officially imported...

 

The other option I looked at was buying an rb26 ecu already tuned by one of the sticker companies like mines or something, but those sure aren't cheap!

 

What are the chances that I can download a prom and it will be good to go? Man I sure with it was like in the movies where I could hack in from my cell phone and recode the ecu to run twice as efficiently by the time I land, because also I was in a plane while doing so.

 

Nissan ecu's are about the easiest in the world to tune. You need software and the hardware from Matt at nistune.com and you'll have a full tunability with your stock ecu. JWT could also tune the ecu for you.

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Still, I've heard that in it's design and functionality the stock ecu more or less bottlenecks the potential of the engine due to emissions and crap. Does being able to fully tune it negate this? If it does then I can see the definite ease of going this route since it would skip the middleman of installing a standalone that would have to be tuned anyway. ALTHOUGH, as stony said, getting rid of the mafs does as a little extra smelly power to the whole package. I guess if you forbid the computer from knowing the true mixture, then it can't cut back any, leaving you with more than necessary and that little extra kick. Still, I don't know how much I want to suffer at the pump. I'm curious to see what kind of mileage it will get in stock form and go from there. I mean, I'm obviously not all about saving money, but there are ways to make hp gains expensively and ways to do it overexpensively. I just wanna know how the ls7 is supposed to get 25 highway...

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Still, I don't know how much I want to suffer at the pump. I'm curious to see what kind of mileage it will get in stock form and go from there.

 

For what its worth, with regard to stand-alone, there is no reason you would get better fuel economy with a MAF system. Obviously, it requires proper tuning, blah, blah, blah. Point is, I'll bet money an aftermarket system is capable of BETTER fuel econmy than a factory ECU in stock configuration.

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Smelly HP????

 

Z's in general are smelly.... you don't just get rid of the Maf sensors and run it. If thats the way you understood it i guess i simplified it too much. the MAF sensors are the air flow restriction. Get rid of them and go to a MAP sensor allows you to get rid of the MAFs. if you want to stay with the stock ECU you can upgrade to z32 MAfs. this is better then stock but still not better then open turbos.

 

The stock ecu will require special equipment to do the ROM tune. If you have access to this and a tuner that can read the ecu data then go for it.

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On the topic of ECU's, I have heard that people are having trouble with the AEM systems, something to do with the CAS sensors. Is this a relevant issue when thinking about buying them? Also has anybody used or have experience with the Wolf500 EMS systems, I have heard good things . . .

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Yeah...I didn't mean just throw them out, but you get the idea. I guess the equipment necessary to tune the stock ecu can be purchased for about the same price as just buying a whole new system, but I'm still listening for the pros and cons of either method.

 

I have also heard Wolf is good, and some on here have used it, but I don't know if they make a package designed for this engine or what. I think they're universal type system is a bit challenging to install properly. I've also heard that AEM was going to release a package for the rb and did so quite a while ago, but I have yet to find it.

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I tried the Wolf V500 for the RBZ and didn't have any luck with it. I got the "plug and play" for the RB25DET and it was that in name only. It didn't come with any base map installed, and the only plug and play thing about it was the plug that plugs it into the stock wiring harness. I tried everything in my ability to get the timing varified (in sync with the engine) and gave up took it to our local RB expert tuner and he had the car for 4 months before he gave up trying to get the timing varified too. I had a lot of help from Ron Tyler including him emailing me a base map he got from Wolf. Ron Tyler is a fantastic guy to deal with so this is nothing negative against him, He did everything humanly possible to help me with this thing, but Wolf leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to support and instructions with this thing. When i buy something that is advertised as plug and play I expect it to be that, and include at the very least a base map for the car it is supposed to be pluging and playing with.

They also need to have proper instructions either with the unit or a video online to show EXACTLY how to verifiy the timing, because unless you get past this step you cannot continue getting the car running. I would suggest that wolf takes a look at the MegaSquirt website (actually DIYautotune) as they have a very outstanding video posted online that walks you through step by step with getting the timing verified.

In the end we pulled the wolf out, and replaced it with an Apexi Power FC and had no further problems, that thing is truly plug and play, it not only comes with an outstanding base map, (that instantly solved a mysterious idle problem i was having with the stock ecu ) but also has a year of weather programing built in so you don't really have to fiddle with cold start or any of that mess.

My friends car with the apexi FC running the RB25DET dynoed at 302whp and runs flawlessly now.

Chris Rummel

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Yeah...I didn't mean just throw them out, but you get the idea. I guess the equipment necessary to tune the stock ecu can be purchased for about the same price as just buying a whole new system, but I'm still listening for the pros and cons of either method.

 

For 400.00 you will have all you need to tune the stock ecu. The stock mafs can modified to meter nearly double the stock rating. I was able to match a local car that was dyno tuned with a power fc ecu with the stock ecu and modified stock mafs. I am in no way suggesting that either way is better or worse, that is for you to decide.

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Thanks Chris, thats the kind of actual information I was looking for! The Apexi, is another option to think about defiantly. I know Jerry B, who posts alot on this site is using one too and Is quiet pleased with the performance he's getting on his RBZ.

 

The power FC is a full standalone correct ? Not just a fuel controller right? The other question I had was where did you source yours and how much did it set you back? I keep hearing things that the Apexi's are getting expensive now that they stopped production. Maybe I'm mixed up. Thanks Chris for some really concrete information to add to this thread. I have used a fair bit of your wiring guide and am just re installing the dash after we ripped out all the old 240z wiring which was fried. Anyhow

 

Thanks !

 

Chris and Rob Crombie

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