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datsunlover

Fixed the door slaming issue..

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Is this a bad problem with 280s as well? It just seems like its mostly 240 and 260 guys that have posted issues, not trying to be a jerk just trying to find out what I need to buy after I finish painting my Z

 

 

Quit being a jerk!! I have or had this problem on my 280z as well. I beleive that the 75-76 280z have the same door design as the 240z and 260z. Later models are different.

 

This fix has helped on mine. Its still not perfect but atleast it closes ok. Now I just need to reallign the door and maby buy a new striker plate.

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has anybody tried welding to the worn area then filing it to shape?

NismoZ: I have also used the weld and file approach. I used it extensively on the drivers door and it works. There is an optimum configuration for the humps on the latch and I will do some more work on it to get the passengers door to close better.

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Quit being a jerk!! I have or had this problem on my 280z as well. I beleive that the 75-76 280z have the same door design as the 240z and 260z. Later models are different.

 

This fix has helped on mine. Its still not perfect but atleast it closes ok. Now I just need to reallign the door and maby buy a new striker plate.

 

Thank you for the reply but I own a 78 with the different style door strikes, does anyone has know of it being a problem with the 77 and 78 styles?

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Carl's right, I found this sleeve to be the solution to slamming the door. After looking at several 240z (and 510) doors in the yards back when they were still to be found there, I noticed some had a little black cover over the lobe. I managed snag a few, and found that the thickness of that rubber (they're definitely not nylon as they're very soft and flexible) made all the difference. I don't have a 240z anymore, but I still have a couple of those sleeves left. One is torn and could be used for someone to reproduce, while the other is still perfect.

 

Hi datsunlover:

Just an interesting side note:

That first "bump" on the "latch" when new (at least on the 72 240-Z) - had a nylon sleeve on it (kind of a horse shoe shape). Over time, they either wear out or get brittle with age - crack and fall off.

 

At one point I attempted to find a plastics shop - that could reproduce the nylon sleeve ... but the cost of the molds needed for injection molding were just too high. In the process of attempting to remove that nylon sleeve from the one good latch I had, we managed to break the original sleeve.

 

After that nylon bumper falls off - then the metal to metal contact between the latch and the catch start to take effect. At any rate, your solution should work fine...

 

 

FWIW,

Carl B.

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Hi, sorry, I don't have a camera that works. What did you have in mind for reproducing them?

 

There are several good urethane products that would be suitable to reproduce hard rubber parts. If we could get some pictures of the missing rubber pieces it would be helpfull.

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Or, you can but a new latch plate!... I bought one from MSA for ~$18... solved the problem and the part was an original nissan part.

 

Mike Nycz

 

Going to try what OP said but if that fails, does anybody have a part number for the latch plate on MSA/Z Store? Thanks in advance.

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To add to this thread. Just an FYI, but the more you grind from the red portion (second lobe notch), the more you will have to compress the door to close. Yes, the geometery will be better and the lobe will be able to rotate properly instead of binding, but you now require the door to press in that much further to allow that latch to reach it's latched position. Moreover there is a higher tendancy for the door to have rattles when shut since there is more play.

The best solution is probably the rubber piece. This allows the cam to rotate more and provide a better angle for the next tooth/notch.

I however don't trust myself with being able to glue a tiny piece of rubber to a cam that is covered with grease/oils/years of grime. I opted instead to just add material to the blue area. I built up an extra 2-3mm on the initial face (blue edge) with a welder. This worked great allowing the cam to catch sooner and get the second cam into the right position (basically I am adding weld material to the striker face the equivalent width of whatever the rubber piece would be.

 

Also to note, I now have the freedom to drop the striker plate down to get better door alignment. Beforehand, if you dropped the striker at all you make the angles even worse and it would not shut at all. No problems now.

 

Pics to come.

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This thread really helped me out; I recently bought a '72 240 off of eBay. It was great but the drivers side door had to be slammed to the point of concern or it would not fully latch. From inside the car it was very difficult.

 

After finding this thread in a bout of restlessness last night; I went to Lowes and bought a 36" piece of 3/8" PEX pipe. PEX is made from polyethylene and is pretty similar to nylon in hardness and low friction. 

 

post-52198-0-54863600-1458500032_thumb.png

 

I trimmed a 3/8" piece off and made one cut along the side. After submerging it in boiling water for a few minutes, I formed it around the 1/2" handle of the x-acto I used to cut it with.

 

It snapped right on the contact lobe of the door latch.

 

post-52198-0-99023100-1458500029_thumb.png

post-52198-0-00742900-1458500029_thumb.png

 

The door closes almost without effort now.

 

15 minutes for both doors and $1.60 in materials.

 

No grinding.

Edited by simulacrum

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