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boost control,whats best?


racerx260

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I have read a lot of comments about boost control; bleedoff vs needle valve, but not alot about a threaded arm on the waste gate controller.Is there a big down side to using this method?I have put threads on one and welded a threaded adjuster to the end that attaches to the waste gate.I know that there are limits to the adjustability but I only plan on 10psi.How does spoolup compare to the other methods or spikes when you shut down the throttle?any comments welcome.wow me with your wisdom.

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Well No Responses,i Put The Adjustable Waste Gate Arm On Guessed At A Setting ,pulled The Pop Off Valve And Pluged It With A Plug From A Na 300.when I Roadtested It It Was At 10 Psi, What Luck Exactly Where I Wanted It.it Pulled Much Stronger Naturally.it Was About 1 Am So I'll Have To Drive It A Little More To Compare Spoolup Etc.i Have A Felpro Headgasket How Well Will This Hold Up To 10 Psi?.at What Point Do You Have To Get One Of Those $200 Motorsport Gaskets? Are There Other Choices? I Have To Try The Washer Trick On The Pop Off Valve And Put It Back On.i Know Alot Of You Have Access To Dynos And Was Wondering If Any One Had Numbers Or A Graph They Whould Share For A Stock 83 Turbo With 2 1/2 Exhast And 10 Psi Of Boost.i Know It Won't Be Much But Its A Place To Start. It Certainly Moves The 260 Better Than The Stock Na Motor,ha Thats The Whole Point Eh?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've gone though several boost controls, from stock T3 internal, Volvo, Mitsu, bent rod, adjustable rod, manual needle, bleeder valve, expensive turbo XS but the best boost control for me is hands down Electronic boost controller with an external gate. I can go from 6 psi to 20+psi on flick. No creep, spike, or lag.

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The felpro gasket will hold 10psi no problem, I've got one in my car (with head studs) that has been over 25 psi a number of times (oops) with no troubles. I think that one of the stock turbo pistons isn't liking it though. Leakdown is a little high on #6, probably due to a pinched ring.

If you only plan on 10psi, the threaded rod will do you fine. No need to spend the big dollars at that level. If you want a little harder hit, try an inexpensive ball-valve MBC.

I am still running a Dawesdevices one, even with my external gate. It is rock-solid and the boost comes on nicely. Eventually, I will go EBC, probably with the next round of updates.

 

It never ends....

 

Doug

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I've done the threaded rod and used additional springs and gotten it up to 25psi whith my hybrid turbo. With my T70 I went with an external wastegate and a profec-b...and I like it alot better. Much easier to switch from street to track settings...

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Guest bastaad525

One big advantage to the Grainger ball-valve style do it yourself controller is that it causes the turbo to spool up noticeably faster. This was the big decision maker for me when I was looking for a cheap way to up boost. Spiking is also VERY minimal IF you get your boost signal from the turbo housing (stock location) as opposed to getting it from the intake manifold.

 

With the threaded rod method, your wastegate will start to open even when minimal boost is first being built, which causes boost to build up more slowly. With the Grainger valve, NO boost signal reaches the wastegate actuator until the boost level you set has been reached, giving you the fastest boost onset that is possible.

 

Grainger valve is also easier to do than threading the WG arm, IMO, and the thing only costs $10-15 to make.

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Thanks For The Info.my Project Is Low Budget/no Budget. Married W/ Children.i Will Probably Go To The Granger Valve Type At Some Point. The Threded Wastegate Rod Is Ok For Free But Have Noticed Slower Spoolup.at First It Jumped Up There But I Think The Diaphram In The Controler Has Gotten More Plyable And It Takes More Rpm To Get The Full 10 Psi.i'veheard The Felpro Gasket Holds Up Well.thanks

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