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Z Model Advice for V8 Project


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It just seems that there are enough straight, clean Z bodies out there not to have to do so much (replacing roofs, etc.). Just keep looking, they are out there, just might require a 'road trip'. The time and money would still be better than something that needs major rust repair and metalworking.....unless that is your thing. But, "American" you never really claimed to be a 'metal master' or Zen lover of Rust Repair.....

The first shell that I bought for this hybrid project was a P.O.S. rust bucket, but I was so caught up in the whole idea of the build. I got taken, and wasted alot of money only to shift gears when I found a CLEAN shell to start with. So, I took a big hit on the first shell, dumped it, licked my wounds, and moved on...

Bottom line is, there are enough clean shells out there. Would you rather spend your time welding-in panels, or searching/travelling to get a virtually rust-free car that will require very little to prep for paint, except for roll cage and chassis stiffening?

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American - No title - no buy!!

 

A guy in our club has a beautiful 240Z he can't drive because he can't get it registered because of title problems. You need to start with a rust free, clean title, shell. There are several of us in the DFW area with V8 Hybrid Z's - Zfan in Plano, Lone Star 1 in Mesquite, and myself just to name a few.

Where have you been checking for a car? Have you touched base with members of the two local Z clubs? www.zcluboftexas.org and www.cowtownzclub.org They have a lot of resources and local knowledge.

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I will bet you can get the car you pictured for less than $25 and the cost of the tow.

 

And that's pretty much what I told him. This guy started out wanting 1750.00 then 1500.00 from the ads I found. When I got there he says the first 750.00 takes it..... he's gonna be waiting awhile. Then he tells me that he's going to move it by the end of this month....um, sure you are.

 

It would be easiest to tell you what is NOT rusted on this car.

 

There ..done. :D

 

Frame rails looked good, even after poking around on them. Roof looks like someone bombed it with watermelons, normal rust in the fenders (actually the front driver fender may be ok), hood paint is cracked all over, surface rust, floor boards are... non existent, glass is good. Engine and trans are in the back... couple of radiators.... you get the idea.

 

I told him to call me when he wants it moved. I'll take it for parts.... just hope I don't need too many from it.

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You did the right thing. No matter how long you spend looking for or going to get a straight rust free chassis, it won't be as long as it takes to repair a rust bucket. I went 1052 miles one way (western NC to Dallas) for my last purchase, and am glad of it. Keep looking till you find what you want.

 

John

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Sounds like there aren't enough decent pieces on it to even get it as a 'parts car'. There are alot of great sources out there for the parts that you sounded interested in....for less, AND without dodging all of the bad spots. Honestly, if you gave him $150, I think that you'd be borderline overspending on it (from experience). The glass and the locks are pretty much the only redeeming parts. Bumpers will need refinishing obviously; but, they could be useable.

He's obvioulsy a glue sniffer if he thinks that the car is worth $750.

My 'money' is still on you finding the shell of your dreams in LA or SF Bay area.

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Like most of us type A personalities here, I'm a bit of a control freak especially when it comes to my toys. However, you are probably right, Cali is the place to buy these cars as it seems, from my research, that they are cleaner and cheaper by far than here in Texas... or most other places for that matter.

 

I might be open to letting someone here do some shopping for me but I'm not to hip on drivng all the way out there to trailer something back. I wonder how much it would cost to ship a car to Texas?

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Have you look at collectorcartraderonline? I found my 77 Z, that happen to be right here in Georgia on that website got a good deal, and had several other choices within the state until I chose this car. Also, there are transport ads on the site if the car you buy is a good distance away from you. They change the search engine, so I think if you browse to "Dream /Browse" and then go to "Classic/Antique" then Datsun.

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I believe that transport from CA to TX would be around $500 plus or minus $150. It depends on how fancy the transport is. If you can find a trucker, or mover that is making the run anyway, they'll probably do it relatively inexpensively. You could consider posting an ad on craigslist.org under "Services" maybe. First find the car, then worry about how to get it home.

I'm not trying to downplay 'Dudeboy's' suggestion of collector car trader because it might pan out really well; but, if someone sees the vehicle that THEY are selling as a "collector car", they would have a high sense of worth for the car. Trying to get top dollar is what I would expect from that source. I may very well be wrong.

I'm such a cheapass, I'm always searching for the 'great deal'. If you can find someone that just wants it out of the way, that is the 'diamond in the rough' that you seek. Please learn from my mistakes. Don't rush. There are, and will be, plenty of good candidates out there.

There is a story on this site about the "chicken coop car". I know the guy that found it. He got a PERFECT project car, and he wasn't even actively looking, just casually. It had been sitting in a rotted out chicken coop for God knows how long. And he got it CHEAP. After selling off the parts that he didn't need on eBay, I think that his investment in the rolling shell was $0.

Again, part of this project is to set guidelines for yourself to help prioritize. Ask yourself which part of getting the car is most important: Finding an inexpensive one and 'fixing' the metal problems, or spending more for a really clean one with little, if any, metal work required. You will seldom get both...cheap AND clean; but, I said seldom, not never. They are definitely out there if you have patience. I guarantee that if you take your time, the perfect car will turn up based upon what is most important to you.

You claim to be Type A, and I'm the posterboy for Type A. This has caused me to make alot of mistakes on this project. Try to heed my warnings, I wish my other buddies would have forced me to 'step back' more. Then again, if you're Type A, you generally can't be 'forced' to do anything...stubborness is part of the profile.

This is a really fun undertaking. Try to keep it "fun" and enjoy the journey without too much focus on the destination. Obviously, you have a vision of what you want the finished product to be; but, try to enjoy the effort that it takes to get there. I'm trying very hard to clear my old mindset, and take pleasure in the process more. As I recover from being runover (as a pedestrian) by a hit-and-run drunk driver, I have lots of unproductive time on my hands. It is my hope to be reinvigorated on the build when I can walk again.

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Amierica....I know a guy that is selling my old 71 240.He is asking $3000 for it.Just a roller.He paid me $3500 and he bought my Arizona Z brake kit for $600 from me too.I paid $1800 for the cage in it.I had custom handmade flares and rust repair that cost me $2000 and fully adjustable suspention that was another $1750.I stripped the interior and put down POR15 and then dynamatted the interior twice for sound deadening.Took me 8 hours just for that.There is no spare tire area.It was removed for the Z28 tank because it had the LS1 in it.It would be a good deal for you because he need to sell it quick before he goes off to school.It just needs body and paint.I sold it because I go a killer deal on a car that was parked in a barn for 15 years and had not a spot of rust.I had to build it.

http://album.hybridz.org/uploads/9165/new_Pictures_027.jpg

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Stan.....That P.O.S. you said you had was clean when I seen it.Hardley had any rust on it when you bought it.I would have bought if from you but you cut the tabs that hold the dash on.That was the only thing that steered me away from it.Do you realy think you were taken?That's not nice to say about somone who you call a friend.I would have paid the same price you did if I was in the market.

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Hmmm JOHN, don't recall mentioning any names in my last post. The car that you "seen" at my place has nothing to do with American's search for a shell; however, you choose to continue to misrepresent facts. Since this thread is for the benefit of American, why don't you start a new thread where we can discuss what you said, what I said, what you did, what I did...the FACTS will speak LOUD and CLEAR!

The craigslist car with coilovers for $350 that I attached early in this thread would be what most consider a great start. The car above would generate mixed opinions.....

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Ummm.. LS1... I'm confused. Your post says it's a roller but the pics show an LS1? installed. Are those photos the Z that is for sale or your car? Does it have the ening installed? Got any recent pics with the flares? How in the world will you install a dash with that cage?!

 

 

 

The 240 listed earlier is no longer there, I don't see it in the classifieds here either.

 

You left coast boys play nice now... :)

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American....The pictures that you see are about a year old of my 71 240Z. I pulled the motor/tranny & diff and sold to a kid that wanted to build it.He got wrapped up with school so he wants to sell it for much less then he paid for it.I posted pictures for you to see because I though it was a good deal for you or someone else.There is no dash currently in the car and there wasnt one in the car when I bought it.In the pictures,i was just showing what work that I done to it before I sold it.

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I think I may have hit paydirt. It's a 76 280z, which after doing some more reading may be the best route to go for me.

 

280side.jpg280side2.jpg

280front.jpg

 

His ad reads:

Has been sitting about 3 years. Transmission bearing went out and I haven't had time or interest any more. The engine was rebuilt 5 years ago and has about 10k on it. Bored out 40 over with flat top pistons, Web cam,headers and more. All polyurethane bushings on the suspension plus KYB struts also has strut bars front and rear. For stopping power it has Toyota 4x4 calipers in the front with 4 pistons per side instead of 1. (And for the people interested, the calipers will bolt right on!) Also a Maxima alternater so no more need external regulator needed. (yes they bolt right on too) The rear end is a 4-11 which is probley why the trans is trashed (again) The body isn't pretty, matter of fact it's what I would call fugly, but the drive train is great!(Except trans) All extra parts will and must go with the car. 2 front fenders, 2 doors, windsheid with seal, 4 speed tansmission (the only one I have left to replace the 5 speed) 2 fuel pumps (the car has been sitting and you will need them) and a stock rear end. I think I may have door panels and maybe more, I just don't remember. If I do you will get it!

 

He says the only rust he can find is in the floorboards but nothing on the body or frame rails. He is double checking for me now. He is about 3 hours south of me but will sell it all for 500.00. He is sending me some high res pics in a few hours but for 500.00 I'm thinking at the very worst it would make a good parts car. Not too hip on the 4.11 gearing and forgot to ask if he installed that as 3.54's were the only options, if I'm not mistaken, for 76.

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American....The pictures that you see are about a year old of my 71 240Z. I pulled the motor/tranny & diff and sold to a kid that wanted to build it.He got wrapped up with school so he wants to sell it for much less then he paid for it.I posted pictures for you to see because I though it was a good deal for you or someone else.There is no dash currently in the car and there wasnt one in the car when I bought it.In the pictures,i was just showing what work that I done to it before I sold it.

 

Looks like a track only car to me. I don't see running a full frame on the street and getting a dash to install. Thanks for the lead though.

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