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johnc

Strut Sectioning FAQ

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In your opinion, does the 1437 practically limit the amount you can lower your car? Or is it a non-issue?

 

No. The practical limit is determined by the suspension mounting points and where the roll centers end up. In general, on 14" wheels, you can't go lower then 5" measured at the rocker panel without changing the inner mounting points of the front lower control arms. On 15" wheels you're limited to about 5 1/2", 16" wheels about 6", etc.

 

This practical limit is for a good handling S30. If you don't care about handling then you can go much lower, but then why would you be looking at installing the Konis if you don't care about handling?

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Cool, Thanks for confirming that JohnC.

 

You're correct, I do want good handling. And wanted to get the best shocks I could that would suit the track without going totally overboard price wise.

 

I dont want to go lower than what is beneficial, so it's good to confirm the 8610-1437's will go a low as I'll ever need.

 

I've put in my order for them and GC coil-overs & camber plates. Woohoo!

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Hey guys, I'm in the process of completely replacing/rebuilding the suspension on my 72 240Z and have read most all the threads and sticky's about this on here. Urethane bushings, sectioned struts w/ Illuminas, 5" threaded collars, 10" springs 225F/250R. Oh, by the way I'm doing this w/ a complete suspension from a 77 280Z. I understand this will bolt in but it also leads me to a couple of questions. This will be mainly a street car w/ maybe some track time. Using 16" wheels w/ a planned ride height of 6" but with the ability to go a little lower if I so choose.

 

So, here is my 1st question: Although they are 280Z struts, on the front should I still use the 240Z recommended inside tube height of 13.375" - 13.500" and a perch height of 5.25"? Same question for the rear. Should I achieve an inside tube height of 14.938" - 15.000" and a perch height of 7.25"? If I understand correctly, although they are 280Z struts (the rear 280Z struts are a couple of inches longer than 240Z rear struts), if I use the dimensions posted byjohnc, I will essentially have what is dimensionally identical to 240Z sectioned struts. Can anyone confirm or correct me if I'm wrong.

 

My second question is: Should I use the rear 240Z strut tops instead of the taller 280Z rear strut tops, if the 280Z struts are going into a 240Z?

 

I hope this makes since and someone will confirm or correct. Thanks in advance.

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Ok I think I am confused. I am doing this on a 280, I have the 12" springs and 4" collars from ground control. Using illuminas. Will the same measurements from the 240 work? As in final length of strut tube, and where to weld the lower ring.

 

I'm using the bz3099 in front and bz3013 in back, I'd like the car to drop 2-3 ", I'll be using stock insulators. Thanks and sorry if this has been covered. I did read extensively but just couldn't find exact measurements for the 280

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Ok I think I am confused. I am doing this on a 280, I have the 12" springs and 4" collars from ground control. Using illuminas. Will the same measurements from the 240 work? As in final length of strut tube, and where to weld the lower ring.

 

Since the FAQ uses 10" tall springs and 5" tall collars, you need to do some math to figure out what will work for you.

 

I'm using the bz3099 in front and bz3013 in back, I'd like the car to drop 2-3 ", I'll be using stock insulators. Thanks and sorry if this has been covered. I did read extensively but just couldn't find exact measurements for the 280

 

For a 280Z I suggest you shorten the front struts for the BZ3099s to fit without a spacer in the bottom and take note of how much you remove from the strut tube. Remove the exact same amount from the rear strut tube and make a correct length spacer to fit the BZ3013.

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You need to be using the BZ30b[]12[/b] strut in the rear, not the BZ3013.

 

I remember reading that the 3012 is just a 3013 with a spacer welded to the bottom of that, so you may be able to conceivably remove it and run it. A BZ3013 strut will not fit in a shortened hosing.

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For a 280Z I suggest you shorten the front struts for the BZ3099s to fit without a spacer in the bottom and take note of how much you remove from the strut tube. Remove the exact same amount from the rear strut tube and make a correct length spacer to fit the BZ3013.

 

I am about to start sectioning struts and building coilovers using Bilstein p30-0032 on a 77 280z however if I cut my front tubes to fit the Bilstein inserts as suggested above for the illuminas I would be shortening my tubes by 2.25 inches. The DIY on doing the Bilsteins target is 1.5 inch but then use a 9/16" spacer at the bottom of the tube. I would rather not use a spacer on the fronts if possible but I understand that sectioning more than 2" is a bad Idea. Should I stay with the 1.5" with these inserts? Planning on running Group buy 17" Rota RB-r's 

Edited by rhettro74

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So I cant find anywhere what struts to use for sectioning on a 280z. I have 10 inch GC coilovers and i will probably just go with KYB stockish shocks. can someone please help. right now the Z is sitting higher than my outback and i hate positive camber. thanks

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Use shorter struts. In the rear, put a spacer underneath them. If you can't figure it out from there, you should probably have someone do it for you. Or, if you want to avoid sectioning in the rear (where  you need the spacer) altogether, just use the 240Z insulator, it will take an inch out.

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ok so i use MR2 in front and lower the front a inch more than I would lower the back since ill probably get a 240 insulator so then it would be all even and then if i ever get camber plates it would still be even. How much sectioning does the Mr2 strut require without a spacer underneath? 

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You should start a new thread.  Nothing worse than finding a bunch of clutter at the end of an FAQ thread.  The FAQ's are supposed to "all killer, no filler".  Not frequently asked questions answered over and over again.

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